Thread: Pest Control - how effective is it?

Where i live is a newish suburb carved from a pine forrest. I have been led to believe that this environment lends itself to the very large numbers of spiders we experience here. Daddy long legs and red backs are the most prevalent and one thought is the lack of natural bird life has alowed the spiders to take over. Bit doctor who'ish.:eek:

I use Coopex spray all over the sheds, house eaves and fencing. Coopex is a residual spray good for 4 months or so and is a spray recommended for places like chicken farms, nurseries etc. places with lots of sheds. You buy it in individual satchets so you can give it a go before deciding on bulk.

I also tried blocking up the gaps but they invade anyways. I did silicone up the floor/side panel gap but that was more a moisture preventative. I need the roof gaps for ventilation.

Cheers

Have you tried a biological solution rather than a chemical one?

I would go out and catch a large quantity of daddy long legs from friends sheds or anywhere else and introduce them to your shed. They do a fantastic job of keeping redback under control. You still get the cobwebs though. I have lots of daddy long legs in the shed and under the house and have not seen a redback anywhere since I moved in, no matter how hard I try. If you lived in Melbourne I would offer you some of my daddy long legs, I have no shortage of them.
White tails are hunters though whose preferred food are black house spiders. I dont have many, I dont know if it is due to the daddy long legs or not. Apparently the best way to control the white tails is to keep their food spider numbers under control.

Cheers
Ben

I also use Coopex - it's what the farmers use and it does a great job. Spray all around the gaps and joins where a crawling insect is likely to go and within a couple of days you'll be sweeping up dozens of dead creepy crawly carcasses. As far as I'm concerned about $9 for a 25 gram sachet every six months is an excellent investment. If you can't get it at your local hardware shop try a vendor of rural products - I notice you're in Syd'O'Ney, just let your fingers do the walking.

Cheers
Pat

yep I concur with what neo has said. I use coopex around the house here and its extremely user friendly. it safe enough to use indoors as well which can keep the cost of having a pestie come in and spray the same thing around your house.

Getting rid of incect pests is really hard. We've been trying to get rid of Termite and Wood Borer for years.

When I mop my lino in the kitchen/hall/wet areas, I put a bit of krunchy crawler into the mop water. Works a treat - the insects seem to stay well away from those floors.

Cheers
RufflyRustic

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice. I will try out the Coopex (good tip about mopping with a small amount of spray).

And the tip with the daddy long legs spiders is very interesting! I'll also start to collect the little buggers for the shed!

Cheers,
Nathan.

Some interesting redback info...

Maybe instead of a broad insecticide you might want to just target the evil ones..

As a hortie I was asked to spray mozzies at a public venue with coopex. I'm not fond of broad spectrum insecticides so I used to fill up the pack with water (no coopex) so it appeared like I was doing my job. I never had any mozzie complaints.

I called it the placebo insecticide program.

Worked a treat!
Getting Rid of Redbacks

Controlling the resilient Redback
The Redback has successfully established itself in Australia. It is a hardy spider than can withstand high temperatures and prolonged dry periods. It is completely indiscriminate about where it builds its web. And it constructs a deep retreat to maintain its security.

How, then, can the Redback be controlled?

Spraying with insecticides is one possibility. However, like all spiders, the Redback can close off its lung openings and exist for several hours using very little air. Hence, a spray must be very long lasting, or used in such volumes that the spider and all of its surroundings are drenched. Surface-acting sprays seem to work reasonably well.

The shape of the web also limits the effectiveness of sprays. The Redback's web is thimble- or bucket-shaped, with the opening pointed towards the ground. Sprays are typically delivered from positions higher than the nest and may not actually affect the spider high up in the nest. Equally, the silk of the egg sac is impervious to such lightly delivered sprays and the young continue to develop within the sac.

However, even if a 'total kill' is achieved, spraying must be repeated frequently as one decent breeze can carry in a new batch of young spiders that can quickly recolonise a 'clear' area. To be totally effective, every house in an entire suburb would have to be sprayed, both inside and out.

The problem with using insecticides is that they are indiscriminate, killing all spiders, even the harmless ones that help to control Redbacks and insects. Thus, spraying has only a temporary effect on the Redback Spiders, but may have a devastating effect on the populations of all spiders, including the natural predators of the Redback.

Reducing Redback numbers

In our experience, the most effective method of Redback Spider control could be termed 'informed vigilance'. First, take careful note of the web in which you found the Redback. Notice that it is fine but strong, with an obvious outer portion and a hidden inner portion in which the spider hides. Usually, the web is strong enough to hold dead leaves and twigs blown into it. Note the location of the web. Take a stick or small brush. Push it quickly back into the web as far as it will go, and roll the spider, its eggs and web onto the stick. Remove and crush the spiders and eggs.

Now search other likely locations for similar webs, beginning near the first web site. Always be sure to check the garage and driveway - adult Redbacks are frequently transported in the bodywork of cars.

The curiosity of children is often aroused when they see webs and spiders. If young children are in the area, it is important to pay careful attention to low ledges. These are best seen by getting down close to the ground and looking up.

Once an area has been thoroughly checked, and the spiders and egg sacs destroyed, a weekly casual check and eradication will substantially reduce the numbers of young Redbacks establishing themselves.

Redbacks are most vulnerable in the cool, dry winter. Insect food is scarce and the spider is forced to live on available reserves. Redbacks appear to survive the winter only in areas of sufficient sunlight and warmth. Follow the sun and look for areas that are heated throughout the winter's day or a good part of it. These are likely sites, as Redbacks need to stay warm and dry.

Wind and rain at the onset of winter can substantially reduce Redback numbers. Equally, early onset of summer heat and dry conditions will allow early mating and extra generations. A sustained attack on Redbacks during the winter will ensure a much quieter spring and summer to follow.

Natural enemies of the Redback
The most formidable natural enemies of the Redback Spider appear to be other spiders, including those of the same family, the Comb-footed Spiders. Redback Spiders have been captured and consumed in the web of the Black House Spider and of the Daddy-long-legs.

The Black House Spider is native to Australia and its presence seems to be a noticeable deterrent to Redback invasion of houses. The Black House Spider occupies untidy lacy webs that 'decorate' eaves, verandahs and window sills. It builds its web in similar areas to those used by the Redback. Often houses that are covered with the Black House Spider are free or almost free of Redbacks.

Originally Posted by I_wanna_Shed

Hi Everyone,

In my main shed, I've noticed the amount of spiders within it is increasing (I've been in the house for 9 months now), on the weekend I easily counted 7 redbacks in the first minute. The spiders are mainly redbacks and whitetails.

I'm wondering if somebody is able to give me feedback on the effectiveness of pest control? Will it stop the spiders from the shed (and house) entirely, and if so, for how long?

An additional thought I have had is sealing the gaps between the "outward" grooves in the colourbond shed walls and the cement slab where they overlap... not necessarily for spiders, just because there are gaps there. Do other people's sheds have these gaps?

Thanks all,
Nathan.

When I went through the home brewed beer phase, I discovered that the sludge in the fermenter could be placed into one of those squirty bottles, and sprayed into spider webs etc; from either a great distance or closeup. Spraying the Redbacks up in the rafters of the shed showed that they died instantly for some reason. This could be from the alcohol content or the yeast content, or a mixture of both, however, it's a good way to get rid of the sludge and the spiders.

Buzza.

"all my heroes drink beer because they can't spell cognac" wc fields ...

Another green(ish) option is the use of camphor laurel and red cedar shavings/sawdust. AFAIK it doesn't kill anything, but most crawlies prefer to find a new home with a bit less ambience.

I think someone also mentioned huon pine in another thread, but I can't say I've tried it myself.