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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Hobart
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    Default How wide to lock door open?

    I have a locking bolt on my sliding door. By simply drilling an extra hole, I will be able to lock it open in any position I want.

    Question is, how far is too far from an insurance perspective? Obviously 10mm will keep the burglars out but it will also keep the breeze out. And of course wide open lets both in.

    Is there an accepted opening gap that is considered "right" for leaving the door in it's locked open position?

    Thanks.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    best to ring your insurance broker and ask, some may say it has to be fully locked to be covered, some will ask what type of lock used and then give a definitive distance, probablly around 50mm at best ......make a phone call....it wont hurt to ask.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC
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    Default

    Practically speaking, 145-150mm will usually keep a man from passing his head through an opening. Anything wide enough your head can fit through generally the rest of your body can. That was always the rule of thumb making burglar bars to fit on the outside of windows.
    Do nothing, stay ahead

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Canberra
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    Default

    As Eli says the aim is to allow at least some breeze through without compromising your security. I have used the same test that the Building Code has for rails etc on decks - a sphere of 120mm should not be able to pass through.

    This means that a child's head will not get through and given burglary can often be opportunistic and sometimes children I use between 100-120mm as the opening (and have that spacing on my 3 sliding doors).

    This is still problematic as most sliding doors can simply be lifted out of their tracks if not fixed at a minimum of two points. The usual is to have the regular centre catch and lock at the handle then a locking bolt at the top rear corner (I have seen them on the bottom rear - simply able to lift out as the door is lifted up) - this is what you will use to secure the door partially open.

    If you are at home (asleep at night for example) or only out for while then this will probably deter, but you would be surprised how easy it is to remove sliding door affixed at just one point (some designs are more secure than others and newer are generally more secure), especially since someone breaking in has no concerns about damaging the door or frame.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
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    3,737

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bloss View Post
    This is still problematic as most sliding doors can simply be lifted out of their tracks if not fixed at a minimum of two points. The usual is to have the regular centre catch and lock at the handle then a locking bolt at the top rear corner (I have seen them on the bottom rear - simply able to lift out as the door is lifted up) - this is what you will use to secure the door partially open.

    If you are at home (asleep at night for example) or only out for while then this will probably deter, but you would be surprised how easy it is to remove sliding door affixed at just one point (some designs are more secure than others and newer are generally more secure), especially since someone breaking in has no concerns about damaging the door or frame.
    Bloss

    As an old window and door installer what you will find with glass sliding doors it is virtually impossible to lift the sliding door out when the fixed panel is locked into place and this is usually with internal screws.

    To remove the sliding panel you must first remove the fixed panel because on sliding doors the internal sill is higher than what you are able to lift the sliding panel.

    With windows this is a different case as all the sliding channels are the same height and I have seen cases where thieves have removed the sliding window where people have had a stick behind the window preventing it from sliding back but doesn't prevent it from being lifted out.

    That is why security locks for windows have a pin the goes into a hole to prevent the panel from being lifted up whereas a patio door lock just has a pin going down into a deep hole in the sill.

  7. #6
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    May 2005
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    Newcastle
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    Default

    Another option may be to fit a sliding securiety door then you can leave the other door as wide as you like
    Ashore




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  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashore View Post
    Another option may be to fit a sliding securiety door then you can leave the other door as wide as you like
    I would opt for the other method. I can and as can many others get in a sliding security door in 10 seconds with minimal noise. Can't tell you how as it may give others some ideas.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Newcastle
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry_White View Post
    I would opt for the other method. I can and as can many others get in a sliding security door in 10 seconds with minimal noise. Can't tell you how as it may give others some ideas.
    How true , a bit harder when the security door if fitted inside the sliding door , and for added safety put a piece of dowel in the door track so the sliding door can only open 10"-12 "
    But no matter what you do you are only keeping out honest people, oppertunists and kids, and anyone worried about making noise while breaking in , you can never stop the real professionals
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Perth
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    6

    Default

    I install sliding doors etc for a crust,the paper work with the lock suggest 100mm i have always just used this spacing.

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