Thread: Window Frame Help Required Please

Hi MH,
Have you tried to release the stuck bits with a paint scraper between the frame and the sash to break the paint adhesion, and maybe a wide flat lever like an old plane iron for example at the top or bottom the carefully try to pry the window open?

The round dowel that you talk about is just a cover for the sash cord, this fixed to a counterweight on the other side of the frames and the metal plates are what attach the sash cord to the sliding window frame. Without them, the window would not stay put where you stop it.

I would make every effort to repair what you have rather than replacing them, they look pretty good by your pics and may free up with a little effort.

I have made and fitted lots of the window and sashes. Remove windows in the reverse of the fitting.
1. remove stop bead ..this is the the one on the inside of the sash. Pry it away from the frame start in the middle of the bead..most of the beads were sprung fitted ie cut too long and sprung into place.
2. loosen sash it is up to you tools use use.. but as you have removed the stop bead.. from the outside I would hit the sash with a hammer..well not the sash but a block of wood against the sash.
3. The long tubes are the next invention after weights for counter balancing the sash.
how they work is that they have a long spring inside the tube.. so a drive screw is inserted in the top and the metal bottom piece [that you cant see] is turned many many times to tension the spring... then it is held in a slot cut in the bottom of the sash with two screws. After the sash is loose you can judge the working of the spring .. is it holding the weight of the sash. This will give you an idea if the springs are still working ..if they are under tension ..remove one screw and drive a small nail in the screw hole .. remove the second screw use pliers to hold the plate. When these were new that had up to 100 turns of spring tension. remove nail and unwind. If I was a betting man I would say the spring have lost their tension. Another way is the hold the top of the tube and remove the drive screw.
4. remove parting bead
5. Remove top sash the same way.


les

The windows look fine. The previous post was spot on. I have done similar with my windows. I used a stanley knife to cut into the paint which binds the windows together. It does not leave so much of a jagged edge, not perfect but worth doing. The metal plates are holding the bottom of the window spring which is located in the tube which runs each side of the window. Replacements available at Bunnies.
Step one, use the stanley knife to cut the paint, inside and out of the room.
Step two, lever the top of the tube which holds the spring tube. It is normally nailed in.
Step three, remove the window locks. The buggers will close on you when you least expect and damage the wood.
Step four, follow the instructions on the previous post.

When the windows are taken out you can paint and sand at your leisure. Get some plastic to cover non existing windows while you work on them.

Be careful not to repeat the same problem caused by previous owner. Don't bind everything with paint. I used a block of soap to lubricate. George

Thank you Make It work, Les and George for your excellent replies.

However I am still not sure which one is the STOP BEAD (silly me).

I have just added some numbers & arrows which are pointing to various pieces of wood. Are any of those the stop bead? What are the names (I assume they have one) of the other 2 shown? Does number 3 have to come off if I am going to remove the windows?

Sorry for all the questions but I have a gut feeling they won't be the last on this subject by me.

Cheers
MH

MH the stop bead is inside the room

les

Like Les said, remove the stop bead from inside the room, cut paint with stanley knife, start in the middle of the bead and insert a small paint scraper, wiggle it a bit, until you get a small gap, then insert a fairly broad chisel and gradually lever it away from the frame. The trick is to do this patiently, a small lever at a time.
Eventually you take the chisel out and work gradually up and down the bead. Let the bead go back occasionally & gradually the nail heads will pop out. Remove them with a hammer, be careful not to damage the wood too much. Use a flat piece of wood (or even the chisel blade) between the claw hammer and the wood to stop the hammer biting into the wood.
Hope that this helps.
George