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3rd February 2007, 09:25 AM #16
Corey and Harold
I get my 8mm barrel hinges online at www.boxmakersbrassware.com.au they don't require any chamfer, are identical to the 10mm variety and if you drill out the holes for them before you split your top from the bottom (and before you fit your lid) they will be perfectly aligned
Cheers
John (Shep1)
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3rd February 2007 09:25 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th February 2007, 08:42 AM #17
John
Thanks for that much appreciated have will contact them
HaroldLearn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Albert Einstein
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4th February 2007, 08:50 AM #18
Dumb question time. How do you drill the holes before you separate the top from the bottom?
Boring signature time again!
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4th February 2007, 10:11 AM #19
Outback
Depends on how you construct your box - I generally make the sides first and fit a base and lid later. After the sides have been assembled/glued and the glue has set, I drill the barrel hinge holes through from the top edge to a depth which will accommodate the full length of the barrel hinge. The lid then is attached to the top of the box sides and conceals the barrel hinge hole. You just need some way of marking the top from the bottom so when you then split the box you do so thru the middle of the drilled hinge holes
Cheers, shep
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4th February 2007, 03:09 PM #20
Thanks John for the link. These would be nice to have.
Corey
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1st November 2011, 11:05 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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Hi all, I dug this old thread up, it caught my attention as I was browsing posts. With this 5mm concealed hinge, the directions say to drill 7.5mm into your timber. But if I drill in that far the hinge sticks out a heap.
Seeing as the hinge is 20mm in total length, I drill in 10mm into my timber (back and lid) and it seems to work pretty fine.
Or am I doing this all wrong,..??
Paul
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2nd November 2011, 07:29 AM #22
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2nd November 2011, 07:57 AM #23
Hi Paul, If you have to sink the hole 10 mm top and back i would think that you may be using the 10 mm hinge which is 19 mm long. out side of that I can't see that you are doing anything wrong. The 5 mm hinge doesn't work without chamfering the back unless you leave a large gap between the top and base.See this link http://images.rockler.com/tech/39578.pdf
Regards
HaroldLearn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.
Albert Einstein
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2nd November 2011, 08:40 AM #24
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2nd November 2011, 03:22 PM #25
Oh Dear....all that work getting the info & uploading it.
Most of the answers to queries in this thread have been in the forum Library for yonks.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f246/box-bits-114898/
Box Bits #2 #3 #4.
Sometimes...
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2nd November 2011, 03:55 PM #26
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2nd November 2011, 04:02 PM #27
Nup......didn't see that one coming
It's probably the difference between Hong Kong, Taiwan and Chinese rulers. And OZ ones too.
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3rd November 2011, 09:43 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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thanks fellas
thanks fellas, I am sure there is some discrepancy in those guides. The hinges I have are definitely 5mm concealed hinges and are definitely 20mm in overall length.
I've got a mate down the road who is also a mad woodworker, I lent him a couple of these hinges that I bought. (I bought them from the brassware site chap, think he is over singleton way). My mate read the instructions which I printed out, even the ones that come with the catalogue also say drill 7.5mm. My mate was convinced that you should only drill in 7.5mm. So I did a test on some scrap timber, the gap was enormous.
I've nearly finished a few of my "initial" boxes, I must take some pics and put on here,
Regards, Paul
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