Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Banding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    76
    Posts
    768

    Default Banding

    I have been debating with myself on the best method of cutting grooves on a box lid for banding. (Veneer).
    I have a trim router which could be used with much care.
    But I have a preference for hand tools, and a router plane with fence also seems be be a way. (I would need to purchase this).

    Could anyone with experience in this please comment.

    Regards
    Keith

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,677

    Default

    Can't help with your banding question but if you need to purchase a router plane I got one of these recently and LN were great to deal with and they're located in Keswick, not too far from you.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    to inlay banding using hand tools you will need a way of scoring parallel edges to the trench you want to lay the banding in, plus a saw to cut the banding.

    Lee Valley sell a range of suitable tools -- including 3 sizes of router plane.
    Lie Nielsen also sell a range of suitable tools -- including 2 sizes of router plane.

    I much prefer the small Lie Nielsen router over the LV equivalent.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    76
    Posts
    768

    Default

    Treecycle, thanks for the reply and link to the LN Router Plane.

    Ian, thanks for your reply. I thought of cutting the banding with a scalpel and straight edge if that's possible. (comments ?)
    I have an LV Small Router Plane, but like the LN Plane you suggested it does not have a fence, where the Large Router Planes do have a fence.
    Surely a fence is needed for that kind of work, I doubt that I could rout well enough by freehand.

    Regards
    Keith

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Hi Pedro,

    I understand your preference for hand tools. Can’t add a lot there. For inlay banding on box tops I use the router table with stops set about 1mm shy of the “real” distance either end, then finish the corners with a chisel. Any variations in the depth of the channel I sort out with a Lie Nielsen small hand router plane (closed mouth). If the channel needs to be widened a little to accept the inlay banding I stick layers of painters tape to the router table fence until I get to where I need to be.

    I also sometimes use a Proxxon rotary tool mounted in a Microfence router base. This is exceptionally accurate. I make a cut for the channel using the nearest (smaller) size cutter, then measure the difference between the channel width and the inlay banding (using digital calipers) and simply dial in the difference on the Microfence. See https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Kq921WHoXEo to see how it’s done.

    For inlay banding corners I currently cut them with either a scalpel and steel rule or a wide chisel. However, I have also used one of Andrew Crawford’s ‘smartCorner’ jigs and I strongly recommend this method. These have been out of production for some time but are about to become available again. See smartBoxmaker for details.

    If were doing this all by hand I’d be using my Veritas inlay tool with the single cutting blade to give me the basic cuts for the channel. Like a marking gauge but with a cutting blade. Then I’d rout the waste out with the LN small hand router. If you’ve made the long cuts deep enough with the cutting gauge you should not need a router plane with a fence- just take it very slowly and avoid the second bottle of red the night before!

    Finally, a completely different approach would be to add the central panel first, then cut and fit the banding around it, then lastly cut panels to fit around the outside of the top. I’ve done this a couple of times with good results.

    Happy inlay banding!

    Brian

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    76
    Posts
    768

    Default

    Thanks Brian,
    Good comments there, especially regarding by hand with the inlay tool. I wonder if the Veritas wheel marking gauge would be enough for the basic cuts ?
    As I mentioned, I have a Veritas small router plane so that may be enough.
    All I need to do is make up a lid and give it a go.

    Many thanks
    Keith

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Hi Keith
    My preference of the LN small router plane over the LV equivalent is that I have trouble locking the LV blade so that it does not rotate.

    a wheel marking gauge should work for basic cuts, though the bigger fence on a something like a Colin Clenton is a boon for registration.

    With all knife type gauges, check that the bevel is facing into the area to be removed -- not the reverse. This will give you a nice vertical wall to the shallow trench.

    IMO a mortise gauge is probably the best beginner's option for a gauge.

    It also helps if you can subtly adjust the width of the banding. This should give you an idea of a jig you can build for yourself Veritas® Shooting Sanders - Lee Valley Tools
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Hi Keith,

    The Veritas wheel gauge should be fine, but you may want to run a scalpel along afterwards to ensure the cut is clean. Good point by Ian about the direction of the bevel on a blade.

    If you’re using 0.6mm - 0.9 inlay the cuts will not need to be deep anyway. Remember to make the routed channel shallow enough to leave a little bit of the bandin above the surface of the box so you can use a card scaper afterwards to get a completely flat surface. When scraping the banding, keep most of the scraper over the top of the box - this way it is less likely you’ll roll over the edges.

    Scraping does a better job than sanding in this case (my opinion only) as you do not generate dark wood dust that gets pressed into the lighter areas of the banding, making it look muddy.

    Good luck,

    Brian

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    76
    Posts
    768

    Default

    Thank you Ian and Brian, Your feedback is most appreciated.
    Now I know what to do, I think the LN small router plane is the way to go as suggested.
    Also thanks for the points about the marking gauge and card scraper, I have both of these.

    Best regards
    Keith

Similar Threads

  1. Best way to make banding
    By Dengue in forum BOX MAKING
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 20th October 2017, 05:04 PM
  2. inlay/banding
    By ninpoman in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 23rd November 2013, 09:10 AM
  3. Do you think its always necessary to glue up banding ?
    By JDarvall in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 19th February 2007, 05:58 PM
  4. Edge banding
    By Graham B in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 23rd December 2006, 11:38 PM
  5. Inlay Banding
    By Termite in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 6th December 2004, 09:05 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •