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Thread: Basic Box Help

  1. #1
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    Default Basic Box Help

    Hi,

    I'm making a basic box for my endmills/drill bits and I plan on using 6mm marine ply for it. It's going to have a pull out shelf where all the bits will be inserted into their respective round holes.

    Question is, are butt joints sufficient for this? 6mm isn't a lot, should it work or should I consider doing a different construction?

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  3. #2
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    I would be inclined to use finger joints .... or to make four 20mm posts with rebates on two sides to take the ply as an infill panel

  4. #3
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    Unfortunately I don't have access to more advanced woodworking equipment, so making finger joints is not possible. Not without Macgyvering some sort of electric drill jig. Main reason why I'm asking this question really... didn't point this out.

    I found what rebates look like:

    http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/...IMAGE%2013.jpg

    That's a good idea, can definitely do this.

    Not sure what you meant by 20mm posts though... google images hasn't shown anything that would look like something you described.

  5. #4
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    I think what Tahlee means by posts is to use solid wood for the corners, and attach the plywood to them. This is worth considering.

    Regards
    Keith

  6. #5
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    G'day A. S,

    Can you manage mitre joints? They are usually sufficient for this kind of work. A good strong wood Glue helps as well. I like titebond II for strong joints. You could consider using some slivers of wood horizontally through each joint. This will add strength and a bit of decoration to the box. You can do these using a hand saw and some plywood or some hardwood.

    Regards,

    Rob

  7. #6
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    Agree with LGS, use titebond2 and it will be very strong.

    i make large boxes using 9mm MDF for toys. I use a rebated joint, but full width of the side piece and half deep on the front/back. Once the bottom is added they are a strong as buggery. So far, after hundreds, not one has ever come back nor whisper of failure.

    all I do is glue, align them with a jig, pin with 1/2" mini brads (pshtook, pshtook, pshtook) and let dry.

    plenty strong enough.

    once you've built up your capabilities, upgrade then!

    (btw, I have a GREAT dovetailer for sale in the marketplace!!)

  8. #7
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    Default

    With limited tools you could get some DAR square moulding. Say 30mm to 12mm square. Cut this and assemble as a frame. Either butt joints or mitre joints. If mitre joints you could add splines if you want it stronger. Rebate joints would be good if possible. It depends if this is going to be mobile and get knocked around or just sit in the shed as to how much effort you think is worthwhile.
    Then glue the ply to this frame and cut all the inserts. Some brads to hold the ply to the frame while the glue cures would speed things up. The end result would be quite strong.
    It doesn't need to last forever because in a few years you'll have different bits and want a new one anyway.
    My 2c.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pedro66 View Post
    I think what Tahlee means by posts is to use solid wood for the corners, and attach the plywood to them. This is worth considering.


    Regards
    Keith

    Had a feeling that's what he meant. I was trying to avoid that because the guide for the shelf is pretty much right at the bottom of the box so I would only be able to line two top corners. Still might go that way, better than having none at all but I'm also a sucker for symmetry so that's the only thing putting me off that solution. I can obviously raise the shelf a bit but that means increasing the height of the box.


    Quote Originally Posted by LGS View Post
    G'day A. S,


    Can you manage mitre joints? They are usually sufficient for this kind of work. A good strong wood Glue helps as well. I like titebond II for strong joints. You could consider using some slivers of wood horizontally through each joint. This will add strength and a bit of decoration to the box. You can do these using a hand saw and some plywood or some hardwood.


    Regards,


    Rob

    Unfortunately no. I don't have a table saw. I've only got a hobby CNC.


    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Agree with LGS, use titebond2 and it will be very strong.


    i make large boxes using 9mm MDF for toys. I use a rebated joint, but full width of the side piece and half deep on the front/back. Once the bottom is added they are a strong as buggery. So far, after hundreds, not one has ever come back nor whisper of failure.


    all I do is glue, align them with a jig, pin with 1/2" mini brads (pshtook, pshtook, pshtook) and let dry.


    plenty strong enough.


    once you've built up your capabilities, upgrade then!


    (btw, I have a GREAT dovetailer for sale in the marketplace!!)

    Sounds good. I'm leaning this way the most.


    I have considered getting a dovetail bit but this box is a one off - at least for now.


    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    With limited tools you could get some DAR square moulding. Say 30mm to 12mm square. Cut this and assemble as a frame. Either butt joints or mitre joints. If mitre joints you could add splines if you want it stronger. Rebate joints would be good if possible. It depends if this is going to be mobile and get knocked around or just sit in the shed as to how much effort you think is worthwhile.
    Then glue the ply to this frame and cut all the inserts. Some brads to hold the ply to the frame while the glue cures would speed things up. The end result would be quite strong.
    It doesn't need to last forever because in a few years you'll have different bits and want a new one anyway.
    My 2c.


    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

    It's just going to sit around. Don't plan moving it around. So sounds like rebate joints should suffice.


    Hopefully this one will last me a long time. I have designed it to be quite modular, so if my drill bits change, I'll change the label inserts to suit and change the 'pods' for the drill/end mills.


    Thanks guys, will go with rebate joints, see how that goes.

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