Thread: Box dimensions

I don't like producing waste as a by product of an aesthetic looking box so my boxes are sized to the timber i choose. Whatever my feelings on odd size boxes they eventually appeal to someone and they sell. As an example i have just completed a custom order and the size is 200L x 120D x 115H in Sassafras with a pivot lid and a drawer in the base. The most important request from the client was that it had to look like a block of wood.

Usually I use the Golden Ratio as a starting point, taking the proposed length of the box and dividing by 1.62 to get the width, then taking that width and dividing by 1.62 to get the height.

But you can use anything, really eg., 4:2:1 or 2:2:1, or whatever looks good to you, not too extreme. 5:4:3 is a neat Pythagorian ratio. Just saying.

As stated above, often the size of the available timber determines the shape.

You also need to look at the thickness of the box sides, thinner the better, but this is usually determined by the width of the hinges being used, and the required structural strength for the box.

I usually estimate the required torsional strength of the joints (kPA) as suggested by James Krenov in his 2012 publication "Engineering design and construction of heirloom boxes", and divide by the overall volume x Janka hardness number to get the optimal thickness.

I go with available lumber size. Then I usually screw up a cut, so if I can't stretch the board to the correct size, I'll have to cut the other one to match. Just my 2bits worth.

I use a ratio of 1.62 for the length and width rounded to the nearest 5mm, and the height is usually fit for purpose or what looks right.
Timber thickness of 10mm for a hinged box (to accommodate the hinge) or 8mm for unhinged box.

Regards
Keith

I created this simple spreadsheet some time ago and refer to it often. Works for me

Only change Cell C1 to your length of box. Then it will give you the "golden ratio"

Paul

Thanks all.