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Thread: Box lining adhesion
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28th August 2017, 09:46 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Box lining adhesion
How do people line their boxes, and more importantly, how do you affix your lining. I have recently covered thick card with velvet and used spray adhesive and with the card just undersized when you wrap it around it makes a snug fit. I was just curious as to what others use as I am now going to make a larger box and doubt I'll be able to get away with this method.
also I was looking for some instructions for lining a jewellery box tray. Do I line the base then cut out where the frame work will go, do I glue them lay in and delicately cut into the corners etc. just need a few pointers.
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28th August 2017, 11:05 AM #2
HI,
I use self adhesive felt that I put on before I put the box together. I
cut a groove at an appropriate height from the bottom of the box, then place the base (with the felt on it)
into the groove and put the box together. Voila, box with base done.
Regards,
Rob
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28th August 2017, 11:30 AM #3
Magic mega tape!
its super thin, super strong and sticks like buggery forever. It's used everywhere in manufacturing: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5mm-...622031350.html
buy a few different widths.
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28th August 2017, 04:29 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Fumbler
My process is to use double French velvet, masking tape, gel glue in a tube, padding sheet , thin cardboard such as wheetie box thickness and double sided carpet tape.
Measure the internal size, cut the cardboard 1mm less, lay rage card board on the velvet and cut the velvet in a rectangle 25mm larger, take the gel glue and apply a smoothed out thin layer around the cardboard near the edges, lay on the padding sheet (ten one I use is like sheet cotton wool) Lay the padded cardboard on the back of the velvet, and one edge at a time, apply the smeared gel glue along one border, fold over the material, and apply the masking tape along the material edge to hold it in place (and to cover any surplus glue. Then while the velvet is still face down do the opposite long edge while gently stretching the fabrics which is face down ... do this by moving the cardboard back against the previously secured edge.
with the two long edges stuck down ... cut the shorter corners on a 45 degree angle but leave around 2mm from the card corner .... repeat the gel glue and masking tape routine for the short ends
.
do a trial fit by fitting into one end of the box, arching the cardboard and sliding into the other end ... this approach means that the corners will be quite smooth ... and the top taut ... but remember to attach a masking tape tab so that you can get it out again for final fitting
Then apply the double sided tape and do a final fit
The velvet I use is around $45 per meter .... but it is worth it as it adds greatly to the finish.
Some boxes I make are lined on the bottom, sides and under the lid
I did try doing the bottom and sides in one piece but it is much more difficult to perfect.
I use masking tape in a ball to gently lift any dust from the surface ... vacuuming will leave marks
Got to be careful using glue and fabrics to avoid any overruns
I fit the divisions after lining using 3mm slats that are mitred on the ends and rebated for internal divisions, The tightness of fit keeps them in place ... but you could use some double sided tape if you feel that is needed
Regaeds
Rob
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28th August 2017, 07:25 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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I moved up from foam matting to the pre glued felt which i now only use if i have an insert tray with small compartments or a box that it suits. But my favourite now is felt glued to cardboard. The cardboard is a 2-3mm firm board which i cut 2-3mm smaller than the opening depending on the thickness of the felt. I lay the felt face down and place the board on top cutting the felt 15-20mm larger all around and cut the corners off the felt then i lay beads of clear craft glue on the board and fold the felt over. The glue takes 20 seconds to take hold and once it does i lay the covered board straight into the box. They are tight enough so that there is no need to glue them in.
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28th August 2017, 07:31 PM #6Taking a break
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When I make lined drawers at work, they get sent out to be flocked. Masking up is a bit of a painstaking process, but the finish is always amazing.
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29th August 2017, 05:47 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Rob,
Thanks for that detailed explanation. i wasn't far off to begin with then, as that's pretty much how I did it with the exception of using spray adhesive to stick the material to the card.
I was under the impression it was done differently. I had thought about routing rebates for the tray separators, gluing the velvet to the base then cutting along the lines of the rebates but was concerned about glue squeeze out.
I shouldn't be worried at all then,
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29th August 2017, 08:57 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Fumbler
Sticking the fabric to the front of the card is not a good idea because the glue either seeps through the fabric or causes hardness in the material .... best to use the wrap around and glue on back approach.
with some smaller boxes I just use the masking tape to hold the material.
The cotton wool under the velvet adds a bit of class in jeswlery boxes.
Regards
Rob
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29th August 2017, 11:10 AM #9
I self floc it. Paint on the glue all over, sprinkle in the floc (I use cooking sieve) with excess, cover and shake well and it's done.
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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29th August 2017, 06:57 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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30th August 2017, 09:45 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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30th August 2017, 07:29 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Fumbler,
Look for 'batting' in places like Spotlight stores (Spotlight Australia | Spotlight Australia - A Bargains Galore With So Much Diversity!). Don't use it myself so I can't offer any useful comments on it.
For lining boxes I use 300gsm card and double sided tape. Most boxes I line with suede. It's just my preference but to me there is a rough heirarchy of lining materials with felt at the bottom, then flocking, then velvet then moire or suede. Somewhere in there is ultrasuede/microsuede (man made suede). Again, this is not fact, just my preferences.
Of course, you can use other things. I have a box given to my mother as a wedding present in 1940's England. It is lined with a cream-coloured very thin decoupage paper and the lid is lined with a leopardskin patterned decoupage paper. The leopardskin paper sounds awful, but it actually looks OK (looks like this: 207). Both papers are glazed with some kind of clear varnish. After nearly 80 years the surfaces are still holding up well.
For adhesives I've tried pva, rubber cement, contact adhesives, spray adhesive and double sided tape.
I do stick the lining to the card because I only wrap it over the card at the top. In my view this makes a neater corner than having material folded over all round, but you do have to be careful in cutting to size. This is the method used by Andrew Crawford, one of the finest boxmakers anywhere.
I like the effectiveness of spray adhesive (Sikka spray adhesive from Bunnings) but in fairness it can get everywhere if you're not careful. I cut the card to size, spray it outdoors on a piece of newspaper, then lay it face down on the suede, rolling it with a rubber roller to ensure even contact. I then trim the suede to size using a roller cutter and straightedge, turn it over, spray the back, fold the suede over at the top and put in place in the box. I have not had any failures from Sikka or Elmers extra-strength spray glues. Nor have I ever had bleed-through on the fabric or suede.
I've not found rubber cement or contact adhesive very easy to work with. Probably just me, but I end up with big goopy strings of it landing across the 'good' side of my linings and ruining things.
More recently I've used double sided tape as suggested by Woodpixel. I buy A4 sheets of double sided, and put two to one side of an A3 piece of 300gsm card. This means that I don't have to mess around with narrower strips for the most part. I can cut the card to size and simply peel off the backing. Presto-ready to use. I do use narrower strips for the folded-over parts, though.
Bear brand tape from Bunnings is quite good, but industrial tape is the go if you can get it (thanks for the link, Woodpixel). Once this stuff is on you'd need Johnny Weismuller and a crowbar to get it off.
Cheers,
Brian
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30th August 2017, 09:19 PM #13
I suggest the double sided tape for its been tested to buggery on my trays. I make trays for Myers in the jewellery sections and "sub displays" (other stores and brands within). They like suede and pigskin split.
The first time I did it I used titebond, let it dry, then iron it on. It works well, but was slow and the TB made the fabric stiffer. This was a tip from a few people on the forum, it works remarkably well
The tape is the most sticky, evil, grip-like-goddam-crazy stuff I've ever encountered. You want to be sure of yourself and do a few tests firsts, for if you bugger it up you are in a WORLD of pain.
Despite this doom, its really easy to use. I just use a regular clicky-snappy knife and put a strips on the card (I use cereal boxes!!!), peel off the top and then stick the suede. Flip it over, small stips around the inside of the back then fold the suede over and press flat (I use a thick sheet of MDF and just lean on it).
There are dozens of trays used every day in 6 stores (maybe more, they dont tell me generally), the tape has stood up to the use now for 18 months on some and 12 months on most.
Its good stuff. Plus its cheap
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31st August 2017, 02:27 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
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