Thread: box lock - installation guide

the Plate #1 is for routing the pocket for the lid plate if your lid is different size then the box. Insert #3 is positioning insert, it is the exact size like the lock plate. If your lid is the same size with the box you may use the corner plate #2 for the lid also.

I have three sets available for free for beta testing by independent boxmakers. The idea is to assess the usefulness of the set so if you are interested, please, send a message for conditions

All questions and comments are welcome

I would like to submit my review for Andrew's "lock templates". Sorry it took so long, I had to wait for my 3 inch x 1/4 inch router bit to arrive from the USA. Couldn't find one in Aus. It's a normal router bit, high quality, industrial grade, with a 1 and 1/2 inch shaft and same for cutter. Cost me about $33 with postage all up.

Andrew's video clipping pretty much shows all the "how to do it bits", so I wont add a heap of pics throughout my working process. I dressed my timber to 12mm, but now that was a slight mistake, as when I cut my dovetail joints I allow for the pins to protrude through a smidgeon and then clean them up after glueing. This process then always removes another .1mm or a tad more. I have started preparing timber for another two boxes and that is 12.2mm. (Rosewood and Forest Oak).

Instead of measuring the centre of your box for placement of Andrew's template, this little idea is pretty accurate.

Lock Template 002.jpgLock Template 003.jpg

Then as Andrew stated his templates allow for the position to be 1.5mm from the face. I decided that 1mm would suit my needs better, hence I needed to move it further away and happened to have some .5mm stiff plastic laying about, (like you use on office folders). This centred my cut better.

Lock Template 001.jpg

From then on, everything went pretty perfect. Andrew's templates are extremely precise and accurate. And these locks seem a good quality also. A few months ago I corresponded with a chap in the USA who was selling boxes with locks, asked him where he got them from. He said there was only one supplier up there, had 2 sorts of locks, said the cheaper one was very sticky and the dearer one, not much better. This one seems very sturdy and works fine.

Here are some pics of my finished box. The lid is BirdsEye Blackwood and all the rest is Australian Blackwood. The Blackwood is pretty old and still has evidence of the termites that once inhabited the tree. I think it blends in very well with the lid. The finish has come up amazing. For the lining I used padded/cushioned Blood Leatherette.

Paul

Hi Paul,
Beautiful box what have you used fro the draw lining.
regards Rod.

Originally Posted by africansurgeon

the Plate #1 is for routing the pocket for the lid plate if your lid is different size then the box. Insert #3 is positioning insert, it is the exact size like the lock plate. If your lid is the same size with the box you may use the corner plate #2 for the lid also.

I have three sets available for free for beta testing by independent boxmakers. The idea is to assess the usefulness of the set so if you are interested, please, send a message for conditions

All questions and comments are welcome

Andrew,

where do I get a set of templates?

PM sent, Welcome

Do you still sell these templates? I didn't find them on eBay. Thanks.

Bill

The set is available, send a private message if you need one.