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  1. #1
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    Default Best way to cut mitre joints with continuous grain for box?

    Hello, I want to make a box with mitred corners, with the aim to have the grain continuous around the box. I have resawn some pieces of jarrah to give me the sides. Each piece has a front and a side which need to be aligned correctly to give the continuous grain. I have made a mitre sled for the table saw, with hold-down clamp, and that cuts it nice and square.

    The problem is with a 3.2mm kerf crosscut blade turned at 45 degrees, the cut takes out 4.5mm out of the timber. It has to be fully raised to cut through properly on both sides.

    The first cut is across one piece, giving a front and side, then turn one of these over to do the next mitre cut facing the correct way. By the time you do both sides of the joint, you have lost the continuity of the grain around the box sides.

    Can anyone please suggest any ideas and suggestions on how to do this 45 degree cut properly with minimal loss of timber to retain that continuous grain appearance?
    regards,

    Dengy

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  3. #2
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    Do you have a thin kerf hand-saw? Cut the sides to length (at 90 degrees!) with that so you have minimal timber losses, then bevel the ends on the TS so that the side of the blade merely kisses the top edge. (ie. you're cutting a small triangular strip off the end of the piece and leaving the face intact.)

    You could do the first, square cuts with the TS as well, but as the whole aim of the game is to minimise the kerf losses...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

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  4. #3
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    As Skew says, use a hand saw to cut with as little distance as possible between the mitred ends. I set up a fence on the disc sander (you can do the same on a linisher) to sand the mitres. If yom ark them with a marking knife, you will get a small feather on the wood, which drops away when you get to the line.
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  5. #4
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    I've been planning on doing the same thing (for a very, very long time ) and was going to use the tablesaw with the blade laying at 45 degrees but only raising the blade until it barely breaks through the top surface. You should then be able to trim the end of the offcut piece without losing more than a bees-tit of matching grain - in theory

    Glad to told if it won't work so I don't waste time and wood trying it out
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  6. #5
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    I use a tungsten tipped bandsaw blade to separate the pieces. This has a 1 mm kerf and cuts fine and straight. I then cut the miters on a 45 degree sled on the table saw.
    You could also use a 90 degree router bit in a jig to make the cut just short of going through the face.
    Good Luck
    BobT
    Don't argue with idiots, they only drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Google "EZ-miter" technique. Brilliant solution to this problem.

  8. #7
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    thanks kindly, kaetamer, that looked very interesting, with lots of room for frustrating little cutting errors - I intend giving it a go soon to see how it works
    regards,

    Dengy

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT View Post
    I've been planning on doing the same thing (for a very, very long time ) and was going to use the tablesaw with the blade laying at 45 degrees but only raising the blade until it barely breaks through the top surface. You should then be able to trim the end of the offcut piece without losing more than a bees-tit of matching grain - in theory

    Glad to told if it won't work so I don't waste time and wood trying it out
    Well, I ran off with your idea and tried it out. I think it should work provided you have a good enough TS blade.

    It didn't for me, though... My favourite blade cuts an 'M' profile at the bottom of the cut and must have one high tooth, as it seems to scribe a line one kerf width down the face of the offcut, meaning I lost that li'l bit more than a bee's tit when trimming.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #9
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    Thanks Andy, I found exactly the same problem, hence the posting of this thread.

    Looks like the answer, as suggested above by a couple of very experienced people, is to cross cut with a very fine saw ( bandsaw, Japanese pull saw, tenon backsaw etc), and then remove the little triangular section by a 45 degree angled sawblade, or by circular disk sander
    regards,

    Dengy

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    Well, I ran off with your idea and tried it out. I think it should work provided you have a good enough TS blade.

    It didn't for me, though... My favourite blade cuts an 'M' profile at the bottom of the cut and must have one high tooth, as it seems to scribe a line one kerf width down the face of the offcut, meaning I lost that li'l bit more than a bee's tit when trimming.
    Good to know! I've got a really good square-toothed ripping blade that I reckon will do the trick. Was thinking I could even try attaching a waste piece across the top of the board and cut it not quite through, reverse the board and make the second cut so there is say 0.5mm left outside the mitres so the board can be 'bent' to 90 degress - unquestionably continuous grain around the corner that way Too ambitious?????
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  12. #11
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    As Kaetamer has suggested, the EZ mitre system using a router cutter is probably the easiest way to achieve what you are looking for. Provided you use a 45 degree router bit that is sharpened to a point you can achieve absolute continuity of the grain.
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  13. #12
    Wallnut is offline He who turns good wood into saw dust
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    Default Suggestion

    Quote Originally Posted by Dengue View Post
    Thanks Andy, I found exactly the same problem, hence the posting of this thread.

    Looks like the answer, as suggested above by a couple of very experienced people, is to cross cut with a very fine saw ( bandsaw, Japanese pull saw, tenon backsaw etc), and then remove the little triangular section by a 45 degree angled sawblade, or by circular disk sander
    If you cut at 90 deg with a Japanese pull saw first,( very thin kerf) then place a piece of sacrificial timber behind the board before you cut the 45deg with a drop saw you wont get the tiny tear out on the fine edge caused by the saw blade, this gives a beautiful crisp edge and not the slightly feathered one.

    Enjoy the challenge

  14. #13
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    Hi TTIT, I am looking for a good square cut blade. What brand is yours?

    Thanks.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by safari View Post
    Hi TTIT, I am looking for a good square cut blade. What brand is yours?

    Thanks.
    I've got one of each of the rip saw blades on page 8 of the Felder catalogue here... FELDER GROUP AUSTRALIA woodworking machines from Format Sliding Table Saws to Dust Extractors
    The sizing blade gives me the cleanest cut - the clearance cutters on the other one scream like a banshee so I don't use it much
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  16. #15
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    Thanks for the reply TTIT. I will follow it up.

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