Thread: Problem cutting lid from box

If you are to use the table saw to remove the lid from the base. Don't use a super high jig, or a super high fence. A fence just slightly higher than your box walls are thick is perfect. Use the box sides to hold the box vertical against the tablesaw surface, and the fence to set the ripping width. Don't cut all the way through the box. Leave it just shy of cutting all the way through, -0.5mm or so. Then you can knife through the remaining ~0.5mm. It is unlikely to be a perfect job, but it should get you damn close.

This has been a good debate. I am afraid that i cannot see the point of angling the box when going through a bandsaw, all that is doing is making a simple task more difficult. If the box is kept flat on the table the operator has far more control over the cut. The trick is a sharp blade and properly tuned bandsaw. Used this method many times without trouble. The other aspect is to make sure that the box is square and not distorted that is the top and bottom faces are exactly parallel and are not bowed and/or twisted, if they are a bit of packing will be needed. If the top and bottom have been veneered there may be a slight bow which needs to be addressed.

Regards


Router

I agree with Router. Angling the box shouldn't be required and would only make it harder to do. The rest is just good setup of the saw and alignment of the box.
These are the only photos I have of the box I ran through my bandsaw with a resaw king before I did any sanding / planing to clean up the edges.

20161105_111746.jpg
20161105_192407.jpg

I had to shim a little with tape to get it square.

The scarier part was cutting the draw front across the long edge of the bottom (not in these photos). However, again, without the thin kerf of the bandsaw blade this wouldn't have looked right either. I'd just review your setup a little on the bandsaw.

Col Hosie recommends using a small router cutter to cut the lid off. I have used a 4mm one to almost cut through, then use a knife to finish the cut.
If your box sides are thick you might find it difficult to find a cutter long enough. Gives a smooth finish cut.

Originally Posted by DomAU

I agree with Router. Angling the box shouldn't be required and would only make it harder to do. The rest is just good setup of the saw and alignment of the box.
These are the only photos I have of the box I ran through my bandsaw with a resaw king before I did any sanding / planing to clean up the edges.

20161105_111746.jpg
20161105_192407.jpg

I had to shim a little with tape to get it square.

The scarier part was cutting the draw front across the long edge of the bottom (not in these photos). However, again, without the thin kerf of the bandsaw blade this wouldn't have looked right either. I'd just review your setup a little on the bandsaw.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but how do you cut the bevel in the lid?

Hi Pearo,

I used a Veritas skew rebate plane. It was my first use of this plane and I must say it was very enjoyable and worked really well. I made my own wooden fences to cut bevels. 15, 30 and 45 degree.
20161105_171625.jpg

In fact I liked it so much I promptly bought his left hand brother as I was getting a tiny bit of tear out going against the grain.

20161126_185251.jpg

Originally Posted by router

This has been a good debate. I am afraid that i cannot see the point of angling the box when going through a bandsaw, all that is doing is making a simple task more difficult. If the box is kept flat on the table the operator has far more control over the cut. The trick is a sharp blade and properly tuned bandsaw. Used this method many times without trouble. The other aspect is to make sure that the box is square and not distorted that is the top and bottom faces are exactly parallel and are not bowed and/or twisted, if they are a bit of packing will be needed. If the top and bottom have been veneered there may be a slight bow which needs to be addressed.

Regards


Router

There are two times when a band is prone to flutter induced deviation - when its entering a cut and when its leaving. This is a Newtons third law effect - the action of pushing against the band means it reacts by sitting back on the wheels and twisting, then it cuts back to straight again. Sharp bands under high tension lessen the effect but its still there.
By reducing the load (angling the workpiece) as it enters and leaves the guy has reduced the amount of pressure on the band which means it'll track straight on entry, and reduce the area affected by any exit induced tear out to one corner.

My question is why hasnt he just made a right angle jig to hold the box at an angle rather then doing the "twist workpiece while holding to the fence maneuver". That looks cool, but I could see it being difficult to handle larger pieces that way in terms of keeping a consistent pressure to the fence while rotating it in an unbroken plane.

Those without the right equipment can always 'old school' it.

Mark