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BOX MAKING This forum is specially for all you box makers out there and there are a lot of you. Seek help - offer help - show us your work, etc.
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10th Feb 2012, 12:06 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Sydney Age: 71
Posts: 382
| | Great craftsmanship and some splendid wood.
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11th Feb 2012, 06:34 AM
| | Senior Member | | Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Tree, Colorado, USA
Posts: 185
| | Very nice Phil! | 
29th Feb 2012, 07:11 PM
| | Diamond Member | | Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,252
| | Very nice, Phil.
I have a couple of questions though:
What do you mean by 'foam board' - polystyrene ? Or is it featherboard?
Also, what keeps the lids sitting up when the box is opened, as the two in the photo?
Cheers
Arron
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29th Feb 2012, 07:33 PM
|  | Most Valued Member | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hinchinbrook Age: 56
Posts: 12,521
| | Phil wonderful work in showing off some magnificent grain
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29th Feb 2012, 08:22 PM
|  | FIG Woodworks | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: 37 Deg, 52. 697' South 145 deg, 15.627' East. Elevation 78M Age: 59
Posts: 1,310
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Arron Very nice, Phil.
I have a couple of questions though:
What do you mean by 'foam board' - polystyrene ? Or is it featherboard?
Also, what keeps the lids sitting up when the box is opened, as the two in the photo?
Cheers
Arron | The board is styrene foam sandwiched between stiff card, it is used for architectural models.
stiff hinges keep the lids sitting up. 
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2nd Mar 2012, 11:42 PM
| | Member | | Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 83
| | Hi Phil,
Excellent boxes, some great character in the timber there, super.
Could you please expand on the finish you used again, with what each of the 3 types of finishes is, and the method, I am intrigued,
Paul | 
3rd Mar 2012, 10:37 AM
|  | FIG Woodworks | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: 37 Deg, 52. 697' South 145 deg, 15.627' East. Elevation 78M Age: 59
Posts: 1,310
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauls321 Hi Phil,
Excellent boxes, some great character in the timber there, super.
Could you please expand on the finish you used again, with what each of the 3 types of finishes is, and the method, I am intrigued,
Paul | Normally I would have to shoot you after giving out the secret but what the hell I am in a good mood this morning. - The first coat was BLO mixed 50/50 with shellite and wiped off after 20min and then left 24 hrs to dry
- The second, third and fourth coats were neat BLO wiped off after 20min and left 24 hrs to dry between each coat.
- I then used Gully and Stevens dark cabinet makers was one coat left to dry and then polished off
- then Liberon Black Bison wax neutral colour one coat left to dry and then buffed off.
- Then two coats of Gully and Stevens paste furniture was polish
The boxes came up with a mat/satin finish which I was really happy with and every one that has seen the boxes comment favourably on the finish, the general consensus is that for boxes it is better than a gloss finish because it highlights the colour in the grain.
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3rd Mar 2012, 01:16 PM
|  | What... you mean it's not 1792? | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 5,064
| | I should clarify that I recommended shellite to Phil for occasions when it's desirable for the oil to go off quicker than normal (as when oiling small articles like boxes, or in cold weather).
Of the oil-compatible spirits readily available, shellite is one of the most volatile and therefore evaporates rapidly. I wouldn't use shellite on a hot summer's day for oiling a large surface like a kitchen table; otherwise the stuff would likely go off before you had finished applying it.
Kerosene, being one of the least volatile spirits, would be a better solvent for oiling large areas in hot weather.
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