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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,186

    Default

    If I need to fill a crack or whatever, I mix some very fine sawdust from the timber I am using with either rapid dry or ordinary interior Selleys Aquadhere. Mix it into a workable paste, put it into the crack, give it a few minutes. Run a little plastic straight edge over it. Give it a few more minutes then a sand. The match isnt perfect but pretty close. Sometimes it looks like it should have been there in the first place, like part of a knot. I've got little jars of fine sawdust from a lot of my common used timbers sitting around. Rosewood I think I have a 2 litre measuring container full of it under the bench. The best place to retrieve your fine sawdust is from your Random Orbital Sander's bag. As I usually sand up to 2000 grit, the sawdust is like talcum powder.

    If I dont have any sawdust available, just grab an offcut from your timber and rub it over some sandpaper and retrieve the dust.

    These days I just use Selleys Aquadhere, never have had any problems with it. Readily available at Bunnings. I did use Titebond when making guitars but now just stick to SA.

    Paul

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls321 View Post
    If I need to fill a crack or whatever, I mix some very fine sawdust from the timber I am using with either rapid dry or ordinary interior Selleys Aquadhere. Mix it into a workable paste, put it into the crack, give it a few minutes. Run a little plastic straight edge over it. Give it a few more minutes then a sand. The match isnt perfect but pretty close. Sometimes it looks like it should have been there in the first place, like part of a knot. I've got little jars of fine sawdust from a lot of my common used timbers sitting around. Rosewood I think I have a 2 litre measuring container full of it under the bench. The best place to retrieve your fine sawdust is from your Random Orbital Sander's bag. As I usually sand up to 2000 grit, the sawdust is like talcum powder.

    If I dont have any sawdust available, just grab an offcut from your timber and rub it over some sandpaper and retrieve the dust.

    These days I just use Selleys Aquadhere, never have had any problems with it. Readily available at Bunnings. I did use Titebond when making guitars but now just stick to SA.

    Paul
    I do not know how the heck I managed it but some of the fingers were smaller than the recesses I had cut out leaving gaps it really ticked me off so I am going to try and get on top of this next time I use hand cut finger joints

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls321 View Post
    If I need to fill a crack or whatever, I mix some very fine sawdust from the timber I am using with either rapid dry or ordinary interior Selleys Aquadhere. Mix it into a workable paste, put it into the crack, give it a few minutes. Run a little plastic straight edge over it. Give it a few more minutes then a sand. The match isnt perfect but pretty close. Sometimes it looks like it should have been there in the first place, like part of a knot. I've got little jars of fine sawdust from a lot of my common used timbers sitting around. Rosewood I think I have a 2 litre measuring container full of it under the bench. The best place to retrieve your fine sawdust is from your Random Orbital Sander's bag. As I usually sand up to 2000 grit, the sawdust is like talcum powder.

    If I dont have any sawdust available, just grab an offcut from your timber and rub it over some sandpaper and retrieve the dust.

    These days I just use Selleys Aquadhere, never have had any problems with it. Readily available at Bunnings. I did use Titebond when making guitars but now just stick to SA.

    Paul
    I do not know how the heck I managed it but some of the fingers were smaller than the recesses I had cut out leaving gaps it really ticked me off so I am going to try and get on top of this next time I use hand cut finger joints

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Some beading I cut with the Stanley 45 today which I will rip on the triton mk3 with my jig saw mounted on it to cut the beading down to a thin moulding which will go around the top of the lid now I have to get some mitre cuts right on these have tried twice today on some scraps of wood for practice before touching the good timber

    20190424_185142[1].jpg

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Success two strips of the moulding I made glued and gently clamped to the lid and the mitre is bloody near perfect for my first time doing it with all the muddled attempts included and it is starting to look like how I pictured it in my head







    Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
    Posts
    1,211

    Default

    Great job on the mitres Skillsaw. I struggled with them for a long time, though have now given up trying to cut them directly to size. I cut a little over size and use a shooting board to sneak up on the perfect fit (most times).

    Lance

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfigio View Post
    Great job on the mitres Skillsaw. I struggled with them for a long time, though have now given up trying to cut them directly to size. I cut a little over size and use a shooting board to sneak up on the perfect fit (most times).

    Lance
    Thanks Lance. I did originally try to cut the mitres with my compound mitre saw but gave up on that idea and went for the tenon saw and mitre box which is the result you see in the photos after a check with the set square and slight touch up with my chisel when needed I have actually found that I am starting to distance myself from using power tools unless I really need to use them like ripping those mouldings after planing the profile with a jig saw mounted in my triton mk3 table and spending more time with the hand tools.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Gave the bottom of the box a bit of a sand with some 180 grit sandpaper and rounded off the corners and top edges and it is starting to tidy up and look a bit more respectable. Also tossing up on whether to make some more beaded moulding to put around the base of the box to match what I have done with the lid also looking at putting some strips of cedar coloured stain into the moulding or even staining the bead only






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  10. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Lid is nearly finished, mouldings are on and top of lid has been sanded a pic of box and lid together included




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  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    I think I will let the photo talk on this one I am liking what I am looking at as I post this




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  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Finished sanding the lid down to 240 grit including the sides this time and have just given it a coat of boiled linseed oil, I will be making some more beaded moulding to put around the base of the bottom half then I can whack that with some 240 grit to finish the sanding on that and then it will also get a coat of boiled linseed oil so everything is ready for some shellac along with the antique style fancy bits, hinges and latch to go on once they arrive on the courier





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  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
    Posts
    312

    Default

    Nice, getting there [emoji106]

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    153

    Default

    Well done looking good. I hope all of the great work goes down well.

    Cheers

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Antique style hinges arrived today just waiting on the latch and corner protectors to arrive, these hinges are going to look good on the box there is 3 of those to go on, also final lot of mouldings planed, ripped to size and glued on around the base once glue sets it will be time for final sanding then a coat of boiled linseed oil and onto the shellac





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  16. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Te Awamutu, New Zealand
    Age
    50
    Posts
    217

    Default

    It is assembled just waiting on the latch to arrive which will probably be Monday. I also need to get some small tin snips to modify the corner protectors for the rear of the box so they can work in with the outside hinges. There is also going to be felt to line the box when I can get to a craft shop.







    Sent from my SM-J810Y using Tapatalk

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