Thread: Glue on inside corners - ideas?

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Thank you Arron. I like to ensure the glue on the outside completely expands the timbers on the outside making a tight seam. glueup is by far one of the most stressful parts of the job, especially on mitred boxes. Getting those inner joins perfect..... Eeee!

Do you mind explaining what you mean by the glue on the outside completely expanding ... New to box making.

My observation of how glue works is that it doesn't just fill the space between two bits of wood, but it gets into the wood a bit by wetting and expanding the fibres.

This is why when you leave the glue on too long before fitting a joint you'll find it too tight. My experience with dovetails is that with already tight ones just cut, the very last thing you need is for them to be even tighter when putting them together.

I tend to leave glue on the outside of the joint to ensure it puffs up the fibres and fills any tiny gaps. Only after it gobbies up do I wipe most of it up.

Im making a few more boxes this week, so I'll give the ideas so far a crack.

This is my understanding of things, but I could be seriously wrong!

I would use Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, and wipe off the excess with water immediately. LHG is water soluble and will not leave any stains behind. It will not affect any finish.

If there is residue, leave it to harden and then remove with a bevel down chisel (not a scalpel).

Regards from Perth

Derek

The 90 degree corner chisel may be large enough to scuff up the wood surface, adjacent to the glue squeeze out.

Wood carvers have many sized series of V-tools with different included angles.
The first number is the sweep, the shape, and the scond number is the width.
These things have a global standard called the London Pattern Book, also known as the Sheffield List.

I suggest that you look at the catalogs on line from Pfeil (Swiss) and from Ashley Iles (Britain). as they both claim to make everything.

A. You're looking for a #41 (straight shank), or a #42 (bent shank) or a #44 (spoon-bent shank) and a width of some 6-8mm.
By definition, these have a 40 degree V shape. If I found it, I'd be buying a 42/6 or a 42/8.

B. If that doesn't work out, #39, #40 and #43 are the respective equivalents with a 70 degree V shape.

> If you can go back a few centuries and learn why the numbering system is to kakked up, all the rest of us would like to know.

I use blue painters tape applied very carefully under good lighting so there are no exposed bits of bare timber on the insides of the joints. Time taken to do this is very worthwhile.
I then apply PVA glue sparingly and brush it evenly over all the surfaces to be joined with an artist's brush before bringing the surfaces together and clamping. This minimises any squeeze out.
Any squeeze out dries on the painters tape. I usually like to do the slipfeathers on the mitre joints next day, and the following day cut off the lid and remove all the painters tape.
Sometimes I need to use a razor sharp chisel to remove any hardened glue that does not come away when pulling the tape off. Ocassionally it is better to use the chisel before removing the tape

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Fumbler

I take it that your box top is in a rebate and not a groove?

eg like A below?


Attachment 418196

Coorect weight, fig A. I will progress to Fig B for the Mother-in-laws Jewellery box. (I asked the wife if she thought mum would like one for her birthday in Late Jan, as we are going back to UK for xmas to see them, and then they are coming back with us for 2 more months so will give me extra time) and then she says, what about for xmas? that's great if you dont want to see me every sunday for the next 3mths!!