Thread: Gluing hinges in position temporarily?

I think I have seen references to double sided tape and/or hot melt glue

I used to use double-sided tape when I first started out making boxes but I found it to be fiddly and difficult to get the tape to grab properly and keep the lid from moving when drilling out the holes for the hinge screws. Then I tried ca glue which just wouldn't grab the brass hinges strongly enough and would tend to let go when applying a little bit of pressure to drill the holes. I also tried 5-min epoxy which did work better but still was a little fiddly and you'd have to wait for it to dry properly before moving on.

What I eventually came to realise was that the easiest to do it is to have good tight mortices for your hinges. The mortice will hold the hinge nice and square resulting in an aligned lid when closed. At least that's what works best for me.

Sometimes the problem is actually the hinges. They can be slightly twisted or something and when they pivot on the pin they open slightly skewed which throws everything off when you attach them in the open position and then close the lid. Using good quality solid brass hinges helps a lot with this.

David

I have been gluing my hinges on for years.
Once I had a job making 30 small pine boxes for the kinder.
The way I got all the hinges nice and straight with the course grain timber was to glue them on first.
The only way to go with those little buggers and my fat fingers.
I finish completely first then the hinges and catches (also glued) are fitted last using PVA glue as it dries clear.

Cheers
John T

Rjtwin501, thanks for this information. Would PVA glue brass hinges?

Like John T, I glue the hinges both sides first and carefully align the box edges, I use CA glue sparingly. Once dry (overnight to be certain) I then drill pilot holes and insert screws.
John S

Originally Posted by Dengue

Rjtwin501, thanks for this information. Would PVA glue brass hinges?

Given enough time to dry I find PVA holds them in place well enough to gently open the box to drill pilot holes and insert screws.

Shep1, thanks for this. I assume that you have finished the box and don't have to remove the hinges after doing this.
How do you drill the pilot hole for the screws if the hinge has a 95 deg opening? My situation is somewhat complicated in that I mostly use strap hinges ( side rail hinges)

What type of hinge are you talking about, butterfly, strap or round hinges?

Router

Dengue
I firstly use a brad awl I think they are called. I have re ground it so that it fits the holes for the strap hinges I use . After marking the centre I use a simple, small jewellers screwdriver which fits ok with a 95 deg opening hinge

thanks shep1, looks like you have got it down to a fine art. Thanks very much for sharing.
Can you confirm that you have done the finish to the box previously, and don't need to remove the hinges afterwards?

Dengy
Yes that is correct, It takes a bit of care applying the CA to avoid marring the finish particularly along the adjoining underside edges of the lid and topside edges of the base but the plus is you can achieve really good alignment between the lid and base. I can still do a little bit of cosmetic finishing once the screws are in the hinges
Cheers
Shep

Hi Dengue,

My approach depends on the type of hinge. If I’m using smartHinges from Andrew C, where dimensions are reliable, I’ve found all I need to do is make sure the left and right stop blocks on the router table are placed exactly equidistant from the cutter. I have a small 12mm block with a hinge rebate routed exactly to the size. I line up the cutter with the cutting edges east/west then slide the block over the cutter until it just kisses the end of the rebate then set the stop at the far end of the block. This should be OK, but I always check the distance using calipers - always. Next is a test cut on scrap and a test fit to check the hinge fits up to the centre of the pin, once again measuring the hinge rebate with calipers. If all is OK I make the first two cuts.

Then I reset the stop block on the other side of the cutter using the same method. It’s important to do the whole measuring and test cutting thing again and not just assume it will match the first set of cuts. Somewhere I read a comment on this from Ian Hawthorne where he said the cuts can be set with the same guide block but he finds climb cuts just differ a fraction. So test cuts again and more measuring.

Sounds a pain, but it’s easier to do than read about. I’ve fitted five pairs of smartHinges in the past two days, all spot on.

Usually I fit the hinges to the top first. I don’t use a self centering bit. Instead I mark the screw hole with a very sharp pointer, placing the hole very slightly closer to the front of the box, i.e. pulling the hinge tight into the rebate. I drill these holes on the drill press or using an old Qualcast egg-beater drill. Both give me more fine control than using a big heavy power drill. Just my preference. When the hinges are fitted to the top I replace the lid and pull it forwards to check all is in alignment. If it is not perfect it is only ever a minute amount out. This is fixed by putting one or two very small pieces of ordinary sticky tape on the rounded front of the offending hinge to move the alignment back by a gnat’s kneecap.

I’m sure there are other good approaches - this is just what works for me.

Brian

I’ve fitted five pairs of smartHinges in the past two days, all spot on.

Wow !! that is pretty impressive, Brian. Thanks for sharing your method of installing strap hinges. Sounds like it is all in the setting up and preparation