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Thread: Help - gluing up mitre boxes
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12th April 2020, 01:09 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Help - gluing up mitre boxes
Hi folks,
Been a couple of years since I did much box making (really just been turning in that time), but I'm trying to get back into it.
Anyone got any suggestions for the best way to glue up a carcass with mitre joints? I struggle endlessly to keep things square with top and bottom aligned.
Is an HDPE jig the answer? Fancy expensive box clamps? 3D squares?
Cheers,
Danny
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12th April 2020 01:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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12th April 2020, 02:11 PM #2
Look forward to the answers here as I don't find this to be the easiest thing to do. I get there in the end but it would be good to see if there are jigs that others have made that make it easier.
I would also be interested in what others think is the best glue for this joint. I usually use Titebond Original but on light timbers like Tassie Oak it seems to leave a black line in the joint. Maybe that is just a reaction of the glue with the this particular timber.
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12th April 2020, 04:48 PM #3Senior Member
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Depending on the size I tend to go with L shaped corner blocks with ratchet straps. A lot of tapping and rechecking then walk away. Smaller boxes when I was doing a few I made up a board with right angle supports and used home made cams to push the box into the corner - top I just used clamps & corner blocks. Never bought any of the systems for such things, but most you can work out how to DIY for whatever is appropriate for your'e needs.
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12th April 2020, 05:03 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks wood spirit - I think I am failing at the walking away part, keep on tapping and rechecking and generally make things worse!
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12th April 2020, 05:09 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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If the box is small enough, large rubber bands are your best bet. The rubber bands apply enough pressure to a miter joint while still allowing for easy adjustments to be made before the glue sets up.
J.Burrows No.109 Rubber Bands 500g | Officeworks
I demonstrated how I do it in this video. I set the video to play at the time I am gluing the box up. The screws in the bench to hold the rubber band in place are highly recommended.
YouTube
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12th April 2020, 05:21 PM #6
My method. Lie the box sides and ends ,mitre side down on a flat board, line them up against a straight edge make sure the mitres are tight together, stick two or three pieces of masking tape over the joints. now turn over and glue, after a few boxes you soon work out how much glue is needed. I use a steel band clamp or 2 if necessary to get the mitres tight. I use Selleys PVA exterior for everything. John.
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12th April 2020, 05:30 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Danny, Mitre joints is not my favourite joint,...BUT, if I do any I use these.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-6M-Rapid-Corner-Clamp-Band-Strap-Clamps-Vice-Picture-Frame-Woodworking/292468305540?epid=8020497651&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4418782e84:gEoAAOSwCXhamLni&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qW%2BefuI83GztwiG8DI6kLN6EvnGXR7ceUi7GLkF6OaxcObuF2UPVY6ysyS%2FhFRbbIgeHBGDhrh7jiSDS8qQ%2F9ebiPmP9ScoiNwYPJR0z0%2BQ3rKOQ64VDmofb%2Bn09AVGosPvOzYbX7M%2B5y%2F1sd6X8TZ5r6KctRVwLsBiYQpl9YdXH7wfFWzdrb01KKuVyjeZbTIwRj4flSlyuZhZpKVP3UPij86LS7Kp3bHZ%2BTfm9sczmV1abzlIZVXInnShjyFQo77YAfNxBY3DJ8Vc%2FAh00QdCuwhuvrS1Fnpx5PUYP%2BzZN1i7QfZog%2FgrSdjN3qzI9S7rPImM03rIzn3w%2Bop6etm6UkD3vEE4Yt7OtdT68fjRRa5eljvd4Rx66YRyPaERXVhZzZ%2Ff58cBSxttco%2BrA5xhjV4fNvJZBW1lvd%2BUMCaKxeE6PBWsF%2FZqMfQbuOSapDdS0APxvdJMiVG%2BxLvGn7bccjaIYUf4x6wBQ%2BuRR8%2FH2s47UnbRXwh4u5%2FN9OoX6W%2FoBTjndm6s2J2WvawgDuO6bNOWLaXDQptLbZc7elFy9TyVZh6RWn%2BbSA%2Ftj7ALaPnIz15Ocgw9ocPcZG%2Bnnppu%2B9t4S9eNWxereH7lH0W5WjnG0zc6tGxGt1%2FRpbaBW5fVYouRgsRxEbol1du7mbXL7tyvC86P0rBXlb3BD2TvPri9V3cl%2FQ%2BWCvEUuMEtLyuCuHcVnncp06sB4hMAEjo%2FAhLPTFmRTlfeyZyJKv4glkZ6GEDtcGVUwtjGTejd8Qo%3D&checksum=292468305540eeb49c2daccf45e1a5f23e23ab7633b1&frcectupt=true
I've got two sets, put one on the top and one on the bottom. Just sorta run your eye down the joint making sure it looks nice and even. You can get a lot of tension from these. Good luck,
Paul
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12th April 2020, 06:05 PM #8
Usually, I oil the insides of the box before assembly, so that any squeeze-out is easy to remove. Then I put a small amount of wax on the outside of the ends, again so that any squeeze-out can be removed. I lay the sides out in order, outside up, and line them up with a straightedge.
IMG_3072.jpg
I then join them with masking tape. If you tension the masking tape slightly it will pull the corners together when you glue up.
Flip the sides over so the inside is up, and position the top and bottom panels. If you wish, you can now do a dry test by folding the sides up around the top & bottom panels. If you're confident, you can now put glue on the joints. Then, fold the sides up and tape the last corner. Pull the tape tight and check all the corners.
IMG_3075.jpg
IMG_3077.jpg
IMG_3076.jpg
Flip the box on its top and measure the diagonals, which should be the same. I find it's easiest to put one end of the rule in an internal corner and measure to the opposite internal corner.
IMG_3078.jpg
If any adjustment is necessary it is usually so small that a slight push on the corners on the long diagonal will fix it. If more force is required, a clamp on the short ends, adjusted so that its slightly aligned with the long diagonal, will pull the box into square.
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13th April 2020, 08:51 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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I actually tried the taping technique once before I stopped doing boxes years ago and had decent results, but I'd forgotten it. Might have to cut myself some timber today and give it a try...
Thanks to those who suggested it!
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13th April 2020, 10:40 AM #10
Just a question about the fitting of the lid insert Alex. Do you cut all the grooves and tenons to be an exact fit (height wise) or is there some clearance on any of them? I ask because I have just been making a similar insert where I made everything fit exactly and was wondering if I was over complicating it or is that the way it is meant to be?
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13th April 2020, 11:17 AM #11GOLD MEMBER
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I have a glue-up jig made from 19mm MDF. Tape up the box, pop it in the jig, four parallel clamps and a guaranteed square result every time:
0169C4A0-D22D-45D4-A246-6694F858F452.jpeg
DA839B88-8F95-4150-895B-E9A3126EB83F.jpeg
Best regards,
Brian
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13th April 2020, 02:23 PM #12
Does this suit all size boxes or only the larger ones?
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13th April 2020, 02:36 PM #13Taking a break
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+1 for masking tape.
Did it all the time at work on all size projects, some jobs took 2 or 3 people just to fold
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13th April 2020, 03:59 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Dallas,
i’ve used it for boxes as small as 150 x 75 x 60 although for small boxes I generally use masking tape and just check it across the diagonals.
As for tape, I think I read that boxmaker Doug Stowe uses packing tape (the reinforced type).
Brian
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13th April 2020, 04:05 PM #15Taking a break
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Should also add that stretching the masking tape a bit as you're putting it on adds tension that will help keep everything nice and tight as the glue dries.
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