Thread: Holiday Jewlery Box

Here are some more WIP's

Pic 1 shows me cutting the strip that will become the lid portion of the sides. This will be glued back on later. I wanted to laminate the English Sycamore to the purpleheart as one board then cut my front, sides and back from just this one pc. I also like to cut my lids free after the entire box is glued up as I get very nice jonery, grain mathcing etc.

Pic 2 shows the rabbit that will receive the purple heart
Pic 3 shows the side pc. remaining and the strip being repositioned for gluing back together
Pic 4 shows how it will be glued back. The seam where the small strip and the large pc of the sycamore meet will actually be where the TS blade will cut through the glued up box, freeing the lid.
Pic 5 shows the start of the gluing. Tomorrow I'll show the pc. all glued up, re-planed and ready for laying out the sides, front and back.

Note, When the box is opened, you will see the thickness of the sides at 1/2 inch. You will see the outer skin of english sycamore at 1/8th of an inch and the purple heart interior at 3/8ths of an inch. This works out nice as when I install a lid stay it will nestle perfectly in the middle of the 1/2 inch sides only being mortised into the purple heart interior wood.

Originally Posted by Bwillie

Pic 3 is me rushing for time and resawing the easy way (On my current TS ). I cut through as you see in Pic 4 on both sides then as seen in Pic 5 I ran it through the band saw.

Do you have any issues with kick back resawing with the TS??

I have thought of doing it this way but never been confident to do it....:mad:

Originally Posted by old_picker

Do you have any issues with kick back resawing with the TS??

I have thought of doing it this way but never been confident to do it....:mad:

Generally I'll only do it when the board is 8/4 or more, and very flat along the bottom surface and fence side. I ensure I keep the board tight along the fence and for heaven sake keep a splitter installed.

That's going to be a pretty Jbox! Can't wait to see it. I take it that you ran the stock after resawing it on the table and band saw thru a planer or hand planed it? I have to use all diimensioned lumber I get online as I have a very tiny shop and I don't have room for a planer, bandsaw or jointer.
Keep it coming, can't wait to see it finished!
Corey

Originally Posted by Boxinator

That's going to be a pretty Jbox! Can't wait to see it. I take it that you ran the stock after resawing it on the table and band saw thru a planer or hand planed it? I have to use all diimensioned lumber I get online as I have a very tiny shop and I don't have room for a planer, bandsaw or jointer.
Keep it coming, can't wait to see it finished!
Corey

Yep, I forgot to mention that step. 1. Rough lumber was first kissed and talked to asking that it be cooperative in the cutting process 2. Planing sides and edges 3. Re-sawing 4. re-planing raw cut edge 5. dimensioning through the planer to the rough dimensions taking into account material to be removed after glue-up. 6. And so on as you see. More pics, later today.

ICN,

Bill

OK I took that long board glued up and performed these next steps.

Pic 1 shows the three boxes I'm making all at once ready for squaring and intermediate rough dimensioning.

Pic 2 shows how rough the ends look.

Pic 3 Shows the set up on the table to square one end. I'll use this end to cut the Right side first at 9.5 inches, move the stop and cut the front to 15.5 inches, move the stop cut the left side at 9.5 inches, then move the stop the last time and cut the back to 15.5 inches.

Pic 4 shows a clean first cut.

Next Steps...

Pic 1 shows the long board flipped over to register the clean bottom against the fence and the fresh cut from Pic 4 in Post 3 above along the stop block. The sides and front and back are cut in sequential order so that the grains will match on three corners. I was a little lazy, but I could have butterflied the board first, then I would have matched all four corner grains.

Pic 2 shows all of the pcs. cut

Pic 3 shows all the boards somewhat oriented to how they'll go together. Still a lot more steps before that happens as these boards are not yet cut to height or three pcs planed to thickness.

Pic 4 shows how the interior will look with the Purpleheart inside and the English Sycamore outside.

Pic 5 shows all three boxes cut.

This picture shows the 4 boards after I have planed the two sides and back to 1.5 inch. You can see the third board down has a thicker English Sycamore. That's because I'll curve the front portion of the lid on the face and the two drawer faces and I need extra material to do that.

OK, A little Hiatus from this project to finish 120 business card cases.

Tomorrow we start dado'ing, cutting the bottom curve detail, miters and the whole nine yards.

Here' a sketch of what it might resemble (If someone else builds it )

Finished yet?(just kidding)

Looks like its gunna be a nice piece!

Looking good Bwillie.

Post 7

I set up the router with a ¼ inch straight cutting bit to cut ¼ inch deep. The fence on the router table was indexed to cut the different dado’s at their proper location.

Pic 1 shows the dado’s being cut for the bottom seen when the lid will be opened on the box.

Pic 2 same cut

Pic 3 shows the board re-oriented on the fence to cut the very bottom dado for the real bottom of the box. (This board is Bird’s eye maple for an identical project). Note that the dado here is so high off of the bottom portion of the box. (This board is a side). The reason it’s so high is that I am creating a gentle curve on the bottom so this dado has to be properly placed.

Pic 4 shows the table saw set up to cut a 1/8 inch kerf in the back and front boards that will accept the guide rail for the tray that will slide back and forth as seen when the box is opened. Depth of cut is 1/8 of an inch. The guide rail itself will be 1/8 inch thick by ¼ inch wide and the length of the inside back/front.

Pic 5 shows the final cut here.

Post 8

In these two pictures we see the dado’s all cut and the boards looking nice before I make big mistakes. Wish me luck.

Post 9

This series is where I will cut the curve along the bottom as a visual detail. The template you see here was created using AutoCad but I always run the numbers by hand first. For those who want to figure out how to create an arc, there’s about 7 ways I know of and two that I use. Trial an error works out for very small arcs but these are huge. The formulae is radius = (1/2 length needed squared + height at the middle squared) divided by 2 times the height. So my radius for the side was 16.25 inches and a whopping 49.25 inches for the front and back. OK, so as to have a computer verify my math, I simply drew the box dimension and used the 3 point arc tool, bing, bang, shabam and there’s my arc.

Pic 1 shows the template glued to the side board. Ready to cut.

Pic 2 shows me setting the band saw up with a ¼ inch blade, carter guide stabilizer, zero clearance blade insert and checking the blade for square.

Pic 3 another view

Pic 4 and 5 show how I cut leaving a small white space near the line for sanding away later. I like to sand to the line (but not too much).