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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Australia
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    1,222

    Default Inlaying strips around box - correct sequence

    I intend to put an inlay strip around the base of this box.
    As the inlay is thin, I don't think that I can cut a 45 degree bevel.
    So I'm planning to butt these together at the corners.
    My question is does it matter, long edge over the short ends?
    Or is there another way.
    Glueing.... should I put a couple of drops of superglue over the corner after Glueing to reinforce them??
    As usual all suggestions gratefully received.
    Lyle
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
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    544

    Default Mitring or Butting Inlay

    Hi Lyle,

    My 5 cents for what it is worth.

    If I was going to butt the inlay together I would inlay the side of the box then inlay the front and back so the end grain is hidden when the box is viewed from the front.

    If you are considering mitres. I've seen videos of woodworkers cutting mitres using a block of wood with a 45 degree slope on one end. The workpiece is placed under the block and a sharp chisel is run down the 45 degree slope cutting the workpiece at 45 degrees. Of course, the workpiece must in line with the edge of the 45 degree block so the cut is 90 degrees to the edges of the inlay strip. I actually have one of these jigs in brass "somewhere" in the shed.

    I do not have enough experience with super glue. Does superglue fill the grain and affect the finish? I'd consider hide glue to reinforce fibres if you think it is necessary.

    Paul

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
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    1,149

    Default

    I would run the front and back through but the biggest concern would be matching the pattern at each corner. That would be the spoiler

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Australia
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies.
    I reckon I'll try to make a jig to cut the 45 bevel.
    Lyle

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD
    Posts
    758

    Default

    With it being thin veneer you could just sandwich it between 2 flat pieces of timber (wider than the Inlay by say 30mm each side) already cut at 45 degrees with a small part of the Inlay protruding out, then either clamp them together or put them in a vice making sure to maintain the 45 degrees between the 2 pieces of timber (the extra 30mm each side will give you a reference for your sliding bevel set at 45 degrees)

    You can then just sand the Inlay until it's flush with the 45 degree timbers, it shouldn't take long to get nice joints and this method will allow you to take very small amount off at a time.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    544

    Default paring chisel mitre jig

    I found a video of a mitre being pared at 45 degrees:

    Paring a miter - YouTube

    A jig for cutting a mitre on thin inlay would not need such a large cut-out. The cut-out could be created by glueing a piece of the inlay to the bottom of the jig. The 45 degree block with the trapped inlay (to be applied to the project)
    could be snugged up against the fixed inlay strip and the whole clamped to the bench to allow the chisel to be guided with two hands.

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