Thread: Installing 25m butt hinges

Hi Al,
The 25mm hinges I have need 9mm for the plate ... are yours the same?

What goes wrong? are you using a router? Any pics would help of the jig and the outcomes.

I use a shopmade jig ... but it needs to be firmly clamped to the box or lid so that there is no movement.

It took some practice to get right ... s sharp chisel is essential and use the jig's wall to guide the chisel into the corners.

I use a 6mm router bit with a top braring. The royter bit is trench type bit ... the cutting surface is only 10mm but the bearing rests up againt the jig wall.

Is this like what you are using or are you using a collar?

Regards

Rob

thanks Rob...using a shop made jig such as the one you describe, my concerns are that the cut out section seems larger than required, leaving an unsightly 1 or 2 mills outside the hinge. I have tried to correct this by reducing the template size to suit. End result too small to allow the hinge body to sit level in the rebate. I will take your advice with a sharp chisel to outline the hinge and then use the router.....AL

Hi Al,

The jig I use is a bit more refined than this one ... but this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neeJ3shVtp8
shows the bit I use at 1:37 and the way to use the chisel.

It is often easier to use a knife to cut the sides a bit wider, or at least to start them off ... use a square with the knife to ensure they are true. Only slightly score first and with the knife and then put a bit more pressure over the next few cuts.That way the cuts are nice and clean and most importantly, true. Use the hinge as the guide for the width ... not a ruler.

Regards

Rob

Thanks Rob, I have some scalpel blades in the shed so that should help cut the fibres. I am wondering if the jig is too thick (12mm) for exact routing ....will have a play with it and see what comes of it. I am using a trim router and the template looks like an overkill............Regards AL

A smaller cut is better than one too large .. I purposely cut mine a little short and then ... with the hinge test fitted ... widen one side using the hinge as the guide for the knife

I did a hinge set today and took a few pic of the process I use

This is the bit I use ... I think you may have something similar

IMG_0219.jpg


This is the under side of my jig. The piece with 38 on it goes to the outside of the box, The pieces with 2 screws butt up against the inside of the box's sides ... keeps the distance ïn"from the edge equal. The second pic shows it in place (taken from the RHS)
IMG_0227.jpgIMG_0228.jpg


This is what I do to ensure the hinges align top to bottom
First do one piece, than fit to the other and mark where the hinge has to go ... you might be able to see the knife marKs on the edge of the bottom piece, transfer that to the surface.

IMG_0224.jpgIMG_0225.jpg

Then after the routing ... but before removing the jig use the chisel to cut the inside corners by referencing off the inside wall of the jig. My jig purposely cuts 1mm too short ... so, after the jig is removed then I widen slot using the the test fitted hinge and the knife to create a n edge that I can then chisel, or cut with the knife if the timber allows that.

I have seen jigs that have sides that separate pieces so that they can be moved in and out to get an exact fit (sure beats trying to cut a single slot!!

Regards

Rob

The router bit and set up is identical to yours....I have been routing the lid and the box sides until the hinges wings are level...is this the way to go ? Will be away for a couple of days, but thanks for the photos and advice....AL

Have you tried using a chisel rather than a router?

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...LidHinges.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,

That is absolutely brilliant, I am going to study your link later on.

Regards, Paul

Thanks Derek, its certainly an option in the future. Regards....AL