Thread: JewelChest11DrawHasBegun

Drawer runners being cut on table saw then rounded, sanded and glued into place

Luckily turned out a nice tight fit so lightly glued & tapped into place
The whole assembly was then glued up and all corners checked with a square
(I was a bit rushed doing the glue up because the glue sets so fast so couldn't take any more pics until it was all clamped up)

Next job
The 11 felt lined drawers and dividers.
More pics to come soon hopefully

Nice detail work

Keep it coming, great to watch work like this unfold.

It certainly is going to be small! But big on functionality and beauty

I too am looking forward to more photos.

cheers
Wendy

Nice work keep the pictures coming

The drawer timber is cut to size
Tas Blackwood front and rear
Tas Oak sides

Dovetails cut with a 1/4 inch router bit (a few modifications were made to the jig to allow for even spacing of the dovetail pins)

De burred with folded abrasive paper

Drawer sides & front are glued up
Any uneven edges finished with a scraper

The draw runner slots were cut on the router using a slot cutting bit and finger board.
The were cut in 2 incremented depth settings for a cleaner/safer cut as I passed it through the finger board.
The 4mm bit was set .4mm off centre run thru once, flipped over then run thru again to allow for .8mm clearance for a nice sliding fit on the 4mm thick drawer runners.
I could have just used a 4.8mm bit but I don't have one in my collection yet.

The slots were then de burred with abrasive paper and tested for a sliding fit.
I took note of the humidity reading in my shed and have been testing the fit of the drawers over the range of 38-40% up to the high 60's and it was noticed that they become a little tight when in the high humidity range which is just what I wanted.

After some carefull sanding with 320grit abrasive paper, the drawer runner slots are now gliding perfectly even in high humidity. I might sand them a little more to allow for the thickness of the finish but overall I'm pretty pleased with the result and fine tolerances.
I was a little worried the drawers would drop too much with the .8 clearance and maybe knock against each other but they all turned out ok.

The slots were cut right through the sides and front to allow for the QLD Walnut strips which will be inlayed into the front of each drawer allowing a space in the centre to slot the custom made handles which will be a combination of African Bubinga & brushed alloy strip.

The Walnut was cut to size using the table saw sliding cross cutting jig and a clamped stop to adjust the thickness of the strips.

The pieces were then cut down the centre on the bandsaw. This will make the 2 finished strips a bookmatched mirror image of the grain on either side of the Bubinga handle because they are cut from 1 piece. (The wavy grain pattern will be repeated on opposite sides for visual balance.)

The strips are glued into place flat side down into the slot
The rough bandsawn side of the cut will be sanded down flush later to expose the identical bookmatched grain patterns.

Hopefully it will look ok with the combination of these timbers, I'm still not too sure about them.
I already mucked up 2 drawers and had to re-do them which set me back a few hours

Next step is to rebate the drawer bottoms while I wait for the test drawer veneer to set.
More pics soon!

Great work there, and nice to see that the triton WC2000 is capable of such nice work, despite all its' detractors

Its actually a Triton Compact, the little brother to the WC2000
Works quite well with the triton saw underneath and all its features however It was a pain to line up the fence and the whole table ended up with a sag in the middle ( I may have lent on it at some stage).

Theres only so much accuracy you can get with a bent piece of sheetmetal as opposed to a solid cast iron top so I decided to rebuit the top with some nice flat marine ply & mdf then I figured I would make the whole thing able to slide in the mitre slot. It can be locked into place or used in sliding mode or the sail tracks can be used to slide smaller jigs on when in locked mode. (i've made 45degree cross cut sleds and an assortment of custom made finger boards & fence accessories to fit on the sled) The sail tracks are also used with coach bolts and plastic threaded knobs for clamping down work, jigs or fences. Ive also drilled a series of holes with nuts embedded for various things.
The original triton fence is hardly ever used anymore
I got my hands on some good solid aluminum box section and rebuilt them to fit my new top.

The great thing is I can still use the triton in its original mode for cutting large sheets etc (although I seldom need to) by simply removing the riving knife and lifting the whole piece off the table even with the fence still atatched so I don't need to reset it again.

As you can probably tell I'm pretty proud of the sled, makes work a lot easier and changing modes between different jigs & cut modes easy.

Amazing detail work, starting to look quite good.