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Thread: Lid panels

  1. #1
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    Default Lid panels

    Just starting the box making journey and so far all of the panels I have fitted to the lid have been inserted into a rebate as drawn below. Is this what most people do or are there better variations for this task that are used regularly?

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    Dallas

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  3. #2
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    Here's another way...
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  4. #3
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    I am currently having a go at the style shown at the top. Would you normally cut the grooves with a slot cutter in both the lid panel and the lid sides?

  5. #4
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    Nice reply Alex, those cuts for the recessed lid, halfway down your diagram. How are they cut when the carcass of the box is glued together.?

    And if they are cut prior, wouldnt it be difficult to have them l lined up around the 4 sides.

    Paul

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    I cut the slots on the sides and the lid panel on the tablesaw, before anything is glued up. I use a blade with a half-flat ground on the top of the teeth, and set the fence using a couple of pieces of scrap.

    The slots for a lift-off lid that you ask about are cut on the inside before cutting the sides to length, and then the outside separating cut are set using the offcuts from the sides. You have to remember to keep them. The outside cut doesn't exactly meet the inside one, but goes very slightly deeper, so that after all four outside cuts have been made, a firm push down will separate them.
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    Hi Alex, I follow what your saying now,, had to think about that for a bit. That method would really only work on a mitre jointed box. So you can purposely make your sides longer and have offcuts left over to suss out where your outside cut will go. I bought a book a while ago on Marquetry, only browsed it, never used it, but it had a couple of box plans in it, one was using the method your talking about. It wouldnt work on say a dovetail jointed box. Interesting, I should try it one day.

    Paul

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Is this what most people do or are there better variations for this task that are used regularly?
    To answer your question, I'd say that's the approach most often taken. Personally I try leave a flat at the bottom of the curve, so the tongue that fits into the rebate isn't tapered, but that's only a minor quibble.

    I use a slot-cutter for the rebates, however as I rarely do mitred joints - my boxes are usually dovetailed - I need to make stopped rebates, using a 4mm chisel to "square up" the rebate ends to the desired stopping points.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  9. #8
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    Paul, that's correct, it's only useful on mitred corners.
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