Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default Pivoting Lid on a Box

    Hi gang,

    I've been away for a couple of weeks, drove about 3,000kms, and whilst away I seen a timber jewellery box in a woodwork shop. Naturally I check them all out as everyone does. The box was a very simple design, just butt joints. The lid was not made in the initial box construction (and sliced off later), the lid was totally seperate.

    The lid was a panel type construction totally separate to the box and just sat on top of the box with a pivoting type action.The lid protruded slightly over the front of the box, to create a lip to raise the lid and protruded over the rear of the box so that it stood up at about a 100 degree or so angle.

    There was a length of timber to the rear of the box maybe about 10mm or 12mm square or so, glued to the underside of the lid a few mm in from the inside rear of the box. There would have been a brass pin or similar inserted into the end of this length of timber and also into the ends of the box at an appropriate place for the pivot.

    I thought that's a pretty simple design, might play around with it when I get home. So now I have the box made, but cannot work out how the pivot worked. Its got me stumped, there must be something I am missing from my memory of this box.

    If this makes any sense maybe someone can have a solution.

    This is where I am up to, the base of the box is made. The box is not glued together yet. Waiting for me to figure out how this pivot will work. Timber is "snake wood ,...and,.........jacaranda".

    Paul
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Paul,

    if it is the type of pivot I think it is the square piece attached to the underside of the lid fits between the sides at the back. The back panel of the box is lower than the front panel to accommodate the square piece. Either the square piece or the (lowered) back piece is rounded slightly to allow the top to pivot freely.

    Your pic shows a box box-jointed with sides equal all round. For the pivot to work the back must be lower. Now you know why the original box you saw was butt jointed - otherwise you would need to start the finger joints part-way down the box at the back.

    I don’t often make boxes to this design, but a tip on the pivot. Try using brass rod inside a close-fitting brass tube. You can buy this stuff quite cheaply at many hobby stores - I use Metro Hobbies in Box Hill, Melbourne. The tube is drilled into the side of the box and lid. Separate pieces of course. Then slip the brass rod through both pices of the tube.

    Good luck,

    Brian

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    Thanks Brian,

    I did some googling about last night and what your saying is correct. I must have had a wrong impression of that back section of that box in my head. I know exactly what your saying and hence I have to change things a bit. I've seen those brass tubes your talking about. Could a solid brass rod still work ok?. Drilled in from the outside of the box, inner hole slightly redrilled a tad thicker. Some epoxy glue gently smeared on the outer and maybe a bit of wax on the inner?

    I'll have a more of a play around with all this and put up a pic of the finished box when done.

    Thanks again Brian.

    Paul

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Hi Paul,

    I’m sure the brass rod will work fine on its own. Looking forward to seeing the finished box,

    Brian

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Hi Paul,

    I recently made something similar. I was practising cutting dovetails, figured I may as well make a couple of boxes rather than more corners, but wanted a quick, easy and cheap lid and hinges as the point was to focus on cutting dovetails. I used a pin hinge as you describe and as Brian suggests I used a 4mm pin (titanium) and brass tube as a sleeve (the fit was perfect). I only sleeved the lod side and left the box side a tight press-fit.

    I assembled the lid into place and used a spacer block inside the box to allow me to keep the lid in place whilst drilling out the hinge holes on a drill press.

    Enjoy!


    I left the hinges slightly proud so I could pull them out if required with pliers.
    20180414_163331.jpg

    20180414_163352.jpg

    And another very similar box with same hinges-

    20170414_210849.jpg

    Cheers, Dom

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    Thanks Brian and Dom.

    Dom those boxes of yours are very nice indeed. Lovely appearance and very well made, most impressive.

    Paul

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,147

    Default

    Paul, you can still do a pivot lid for that box. If you don't have the base in the box yet then just cut the lid to fit tight within the rim of the box drill a 4mm hole through the outside of the box and into the lid and use 4mm Brass rod for the pins. Once you have test fitted it take the lid out and trim it so you have an even gap all around.
    You can either pencil round the top edge of the lid at the pivot end so it does not bind on the back panel, or leave it square and increase the gap.

    If you have the base in then cut some spacers to the height between the top side of the base and the underside of the lid, clamp the lid down and drill the holes.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    hey there Double.d Very good thinking. I'm with you. Although I have now modified the back of the box by slicing about 12mm off it. I have also glued a strip along the rear underside of my lid also. I'll play around with this more over the next couple of days.

    With your idea I am thinking the lid would have to rest on part of the front side of the box.

    This was just an experiment after seeing that box in a woodwork shop, selling for about $450. Seemed rather simple at the time.

    Thanks again
    Paul

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls321 View Post

    With your idea I am thinking the lid would have to rest on part of the front side of the box.



    Thanks again
    Paul
    You can incorporate a handle the fixes to the top of the lid so it rests on the front panel or make the handle as part of the lid and cut a slot in the front panel so the handle protrudes through.

Similar Threads

  1. Pivoting Tool Holder
    By WOODbTURNER in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 15th May 2007, 07:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •