Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 24 of 24

Thread: Rock maple

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    Okie dokie, I'll do a couple of pics of my jig tomorrow. The mortise is all finished now but you'll get the idea from my pics tomorrow. One other thing I forgot to mention about those locks I bought. The pic on the site says the width of the lock casing is 5mm. It's actually very close to 6mm, there is a few little "nodules" of brass protruding "out" from the casing itself. Hence it would not fit into a precise 5mm mortise.

    Paul

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

    Default



    Love to see some pics of your jig, Paul. For full mortise locks such as smartLock I cut the shallow recesses for the lock plates using a simple spacer on the router table then drill the main hole for the body of the lock using a lip and spur bit in the pedestal drill.

    The “other” type I use, such as the one I linked to at Lee Valley, is a half mortise lock rather than a full mortise lock. This means it is recessed into the inside front of the box. I cut the recesses by marking around the lock then drilling from the “top” using the pedestal drill, cleaning out the waste with a chisel. I can now do this quite quickly, and although I much prefer the smartLock, when they are not available the half- mortise type works fine. I line all my boxes anyway so the inside surface of the lock isn’t seen.

    I haven’t used the particular lock you mention, Paul, but then I’m more than happy with the two above plus the Brusso solid brass latches when I don’t need a lock.

    Brian

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by botesmj1 View Post
    I know this will be frowned upon [emoji849]. Even though I own a fancy smoothing plane I struggle to get consistent results with it so am a bit scared putting it to use. I tend to revert to my random orbital sander instead so that's what I used extensively on this box. Nothing like a piece of 120 grit to knock down the proud inlays or sides of the rabbet joints.
    Nothing wrong with using a ROS
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    Hi guys, pics of my "jig" as promised. I made this jig so I could use my Makita Laminator on it which has a built in template follower under the plastic base of it. The outside diameter of the template follower is exactly 10mm. I have a long 80mm 1/4 inch straight bit in it. Therefore when your following a template the actual cut is a tad under 2mm from the sides of the template. Perfect for this job. The jig itself is made from 6mm MDF which I had to join a little strip on at the rear as I was using offcuts. Didn't want to drive to Bunnings just to buy a full sheet. I also glued another thicker piece of MDF under it just for extra strength. I wanted the jig to cover (plus a bit more) on the entire top area of the box to keep it nice and stable and a nice platform for my Makita Laminator to sit/run on. I'll only use this on larger boxes with a 12mm sides.

    The template in the slot is 10mm wide for the laminator to slide along. I light sanded the sides of the slot just to allow a nice smooth slide for the laminator.

    The front of the jig is just 19mm radiata pine with a rebate at the top for the MDF to be glued in to. Some precise measuring is required for the actual router cut to be centred inside the 9mm x 1mm slot I had already done on my router table, pretty much identical to how Homey described that part of it. I was actually about half a mm out, and had to spend an hour or so manually sanding/scraping half a mm from the inside of the pine so it would slide back that extra bit.

    I''ve also made a hole for the key in the pine. The jig is placed on the top of my box with a centre line, lining up with the centre of the box. 4 clamps keeps everything nice and stable whilst routering out the mortise cavity. I router in stage, just moving the router bit down a bit at a time, until the full dept is about 30mm.

    There is a small brass cover plate for the key hole, you will see on the towel in one of the pics, with 2 pin holes. The pins brass pins supplied I think they will be a bit too long, might have to try and cut them down a bit, and perhaps just use super glue.

    The timber in this box is North Queensland Blackwood.

    Paul
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
    Posts
    312

    Default

    That's some nice work Paul. Thanks for sharing. I reckon once you got a liking into a particular hinge/lock a routing template like yours is an excellent idea for repeatability.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    Thanks botes, I just edited my post slightly as I rushed it. Had to race out into the shed and remove some clamps with rapid set glue I had setting.

    Paul

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    No your not alone in the sanding world, I have 2 systems. A flat sanding board for the opening surfaces, to ensure they mate perfectly, and the ROS for the outside. Of the carcass.

    Richard

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    Hi Paul,

    Thanks for the pics of the jig. I hadn’t thought of doing it this way - router rather than drill. I do have a similar(ish) jig for routing hinge gains when using stopped butt hinges.

    Always learning, learning...

    Brian

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Near Bodgy, AlexS, Wongo & CraigB
    Age
    18
    Posts
    2,666

    Default

    thats a lovely looking bit of birdseye. A severely underrated bit of timber is Rock Maple. Almost a waste its used for fender necks.
    Zed

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. American Rock Maple
    By rsser in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 6th May 2012, 05:03 PM
  2. Rock maple offcuts
    By floody_85 in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 1st February 2012, 08:42 AM
  3. Rock Maple
    By HotToyTe in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 8th April 2009, 11:40 AM
  4. WIP Rock Maple bed
    By Marginata in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 16th January 2009, 11:50 AM
  5. American Rock Maple
    By Larry McCully in forum FLOORING, DECKING, STUMPS, etc.
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 21st December 2006, 10:13 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •