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Thread: Rock maple
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18th March 2019, 09:43 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Okie dokie, I'll do a couple of pics of my jig tomorrow. The mortise is all finished now but you'll get the idea from my pics tomorrow. One other thing I forgot to mention about those locks I bought. The pic on the site says the width of the lock casing is 5mm. It's actually very close to 6mm, there is a few little "nodules" of brass protruding "out" from the casing itself. Hence it would not fit into a precise 5mm mortise.
Paul
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18th March 2019 09:43 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th March 2019, 10:47 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Love to see some pics of your jig, Paul. For full mortise locks such as smartLock I cut the shallow recesses for the lock plates using a simple spacer on the router table then drill the main hole for the body of the lock using a lip and spur bit in the pedestal drill.
The “other” type I use, such as the one I linked to at Lee Valley, is a half mortise lock rather than a full mortise lock. This means it is recessed into the inside front of the box. I cut the recesses by marking around the lock then drilling from the “top” using the pedestal drill, cleaning out the waste with a chisel. I can now do this quite quickly, and although I much prefer the smartLock, when they are not available the half- mortise type works fine. I line all my boxes anyway so the inside surface of the lock isn’t seen.
I haven’t used the particular lock you mention, Paul, but then I’m more than happy with the two above plus the Brusso solid brass latches when I don’t need a lock.
Brian
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18th March 2019, 10:57 PM #18
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19th March 2019, 04:27 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Hi guys, pics of my "jig" as promised. I made this jig so I could use my Makita Laminator on it which has a built in template follower under the plastic base of it. The outside diameter of the template follower is exactly 10mm. I have a long 80mm 1/4 inch straight bit in it. Therefore when your following a template the actual cut is a tad under 2mm from the sides of the template. Perfect for this job. The jig itself is made from 6mm MDF which I had to join a little strip on at the rear as I was using offcuts. Didn't want to drive to Bunnings just to buy a full sheet. I also glued another thicker piece of MDF under it just for extra strength. I wanted the jig to cover (plus a bit more) on the entire top area of the box to keep it nice and stable and a nice platform for my Makita Laminator to sit/run on. I'll only use this on larger boxes with a 12mm sides.
The template in the slot is 10mm wide for the laminator to slide along. I light sanded the sides of the slot just to allow a nice smooth slide for the laminator.
The front of the jig is just 19mm radiata pine with a rebate at the top for the MDF to be glued in to. Some precise measuring is required for the actual router cut to be centred inside the 9mm x 1mm slot I had already done on my router table, pretty much identical to how Homey described that part of it. I was actually about half a mm out, and had to spend an hour or so manually sanding/scraping half a mm from the inside of the pine so it would slide back that extra bit.
I''ve also made a hole for the key in the pine. The jig is placed on the top of my box with a centre line, lining up with the centre of the box. 4 clamps keeps everything nice and stable whilst routering out the mortise cavity. I router in stage, just moving the router bit down a bit at a time, until the full dept is about 30mm.
There is a small brass cover plate for the key hole, you will see on the towel in one of the pics, with 2 pin holes. The pins brass pins supplied I think they will be a bit too long, might have to try and cut them down a bit, and perhaps just use super glue.
The timber in this box is North Queensland Blackwood.
Paul
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19th March 2019, 04:35 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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That's some nice work Paul. Thanks for sharing. I reckon once you got a liking into a particular hinge/lock a routing template like yours is an excellent idea for repeatability.
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19th March 2019, 04:48 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks botes, I just edited my post slightly as I rushed it. Had to race out into the shed and remove some clamps with rapid set glue I had setting.
Paul
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21st March 2019, 09:24 AM #22GOLD MEMBER
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No your not alone in the sanding world, I have 2 systems. A flat sanding board for the opening surfaces, to ensure they mate perfectly, and the ROS for the outside. Of the carcass.
Richard
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21st March 2019, 09:02 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for the pics of the jig. I hadn’t thought of doing it this way - router rather than drill. I do have a similar(ish) jig for routing hinge gains when using stopped butt hinges.
Always learning, learning...
Brian
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23rd March 2019, 09:51 PM #24
thats a lovely looking bit of birdseye. A severely underrated bit of timber is Rock Maple. Almost a waste its used for fender necks.
Zed
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