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Thread: Rock maple

  1. #16
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    Sep 2011
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    Okie dokie, I'll do a couple of pics of my jig tomorrow. The mortise is all finished now but you'll get the idea from my pics tomorrow. One other thing I forgot to mention about those locks I bought. The pic on the site says the width of the lock casing is 5mm. It's actually very close to 6mm, there is a few little "nodules" of brass protruding "out" from the casing itself. Hence it would not fit into a precise 5mm mortise.

    Paul

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  3. #17
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    Apr 2014
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    Love to see some pics of your jig, Paul. For full mortise locks such as smartLock I cut the shallow recesses for the lock plates using a simple spacer on the router table then drill the main hole for the body of the lock using a lip and spur bit in the pedestal drill.

    The ďotherĒ type I use, such as the one I linked to at Lee Valley, is a half mortise lock rather than a full mortise lock. This means it is recessed into the inside front of the box. I cut the recesses by marking around the lock then drilling from the ďtopĒ using the pedestal drill, cleaning out the waste with a chisel. I can now do this quite quickly, and although I much prefer the smartLock, when they are not available the half- mortise type works fine. I line all my boxes anyway so the inside surface of the lock isnít seen.

    I havenít used the particular lock you mention, Paul, but then Iím more than happy with the two above plus the Brusso solid brass latches when I donít need a lock.

    Brian

  4. #18
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    Jun 1999
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    Quote Originally Posted by botesmj1 View Post
    I know this will be frowned upon Rock maple. Even though I own a fancy smoothing plane I struggle to get consistent results with it so am a bit scared putting it to use. I tend to revert to my random orbital sander instead so that's what I used extensively on this box. Nothing like a piece of 120 grit to knock down the proud inlays or sides of the rabbet joints.
    Nothing wrong with using a ROS
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