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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
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    1,064

    Default Rock Maple/Birdseye Maple Box

    Nothing particularly different about this box.

    It is American Rock Maple (Trend Timbers) with a book-matched Birdseye Maple top panel. Inlay is English Sycamore.

    F69A9E07-BB42-454D-A892-2B25C14C8FF7.jpeg

    The key learning was no to bother with book-matching BE Maple as the figure is too small and too random to give a decent effect. Book-matching works best when there is a strong change in the figure.

    83285FC9-ED90-4210-AB02-D1AFAFFD1FF5.jpeg

    The finish is Behlen’s Stringed Instrument lacquer in Satin (aerosol can) which is a pre-catalyzed nitrocellulose. Dries in seconds. I think there are around 12 coats on this box, then waxed with Liberon Black Bison wax.

    Inside of the lid is bookmatched ripple sycamore. It looks better in the flesh than in the photos for some reason.

    931EDE94-2D8D-4EF1-AB53-1503AC2C8617.jpeg

    The tray is Huon. If I did this again I’d use maple. The lining is 0.6mm Tan suede from Tandy Leather. I quite like this especially with a pale coloured box.

    F258EB5B-14D7-4D83-93CE-0DF3F50DD900.jpeg



    OK, enough from me.

    Back to the woodpile

    Brian

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    I must say, this is a stand out, and once I get through my other boxes, I will line one up for myself. I might even try an inlay lid like this. so stay tuned to your pm for questions galore.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    312

    Default

    That's lovely Brian, I quite like that rippled Sycamore.

    I notice a different lock this time. What's the source?

    Also the suede, is that natural or man made?

    Cheers
    Jacques

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
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    Default

    Very nice box Brian, looks superb. I always like how neat you get your linings on your walls. So the lid is two different veneers, top and bottom. Glued on to MDF?

    Paul

  6. #5
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    Jun 1999
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    Westleigh, Sydney
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    9,542

    Default

    That's very good use of some beautiful timbers. Agree with you about the choice of lining colour - it looks great.
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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Beautiful box, made with some beautiful timbers. Excellent.

    Regards,

    Rob

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
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    Default

    Guys, thanks for the kind comments.

    Richard - the inlay is not really difficult, but its worth doing a bit of practice on scrap first. Let me know if I can help.

    Jacques - the suede is genuine. It’s 0.6mm pigskin split from Tandyleather.com.au. You’re correct about the different lock - it’s my alternative go-to if I want to use a half-mortice. It’s an English lock from Lee Valley Tools. The product code is
    00P2815 1-1/2"x3/4" Jewellery Box Lock
    This particular lock fits well into a 12mm box side. I suspect you could find these cheaper direct from the UK.

    The escutcheon is separate but I wouldn’t buy this type again as they are thinly plated not solid brass as I had thought.

    Paul - yes, two different veneers on the top and bottom of the lid. I use 4 or 6mm birch ply rather than MDF, but I have used MDF in the past and it works fine. The two veneers add a total of 1.2mm to the thickness of the panel. Just remember to veneer both sides of the panel or you’ll end up with a banana-shaped top. I found that one out the hard way!

    Regards,

    Brian

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
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    Default

    Beautiful as usual Brian and always generous with your information. Just a question about the lid panel. By using ply or MDF as the substrate and applying veneer both sides, is the panel glued in rather than floating and then the groove is routed around it to fit the banding?
    Dallas

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Kew, Vic
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    Default

    Hi Dallas,

    That’s pretty much it. The panel is veneered both sides. If I use 4mm ply plus 0.6mm veneer either side the finished panel is 5.2mm thick. I rout a channel in the side of the box so that the top of the panel is just a fraction below the sides. See post number 6 in my Rock Maple Box thread here for details Rock Maple Box - Work in Progress

    Since the top panel is ply or MDF it isn”t going to expand and contract, so it can be glued into the channel. Once the box sides have been scraped down level with the top panel, looking from the top you will have the box wall at full thickness (generally I use 12mm because of hinge sizes) and the top panel appearing to butt up against it. If I’m using an 8mm inlay banding I cut the channel so it is centred on the wall/panel join, i.e. 4mm over the wall and 4mm over the panel. This can cover a lot of sins!

    Hope this makes it clearer. The diagram in the post mentioned above should help, too. Let me know if it doesn’t!

    Best regards,

    Brian

    PS I buy birch ply from Plyco in Fairfeld, Melbourne. I haven’t had good experience with ply from the Big Green Shed, it has always twisted a few days after cutting- even the more expensive marine ply. Perhaps I’ve just been unlucky? If you can’t get good quality ply I’d suggest MDF instead.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
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    65
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    Default

    Great explanation that even I can understand. I sent my wife to Plyco a couple of years ago to get some good quality ply for her pyrography.

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