Thread: "Smart Hinges"

You can get a 6mm collet adaptor.

Bushing Adapters - Lee Valley Tools

Same as the Amazon one but has a 1/2 inch shank.

I have installed a few sets of the McJing version of these hinges which they call strap hinges - https://mcjing.com.au/Static/Images/DSC02245.JPG

I also bought a 6mm dia router bit with 1/4" shank - https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowse...categoryid=800 but it doesn't appear to be in stock at the moment. When buying this bit, I was offered a 1/4" dia bit as a 6mm bit, but I had gone there prepared, and measured the cutter and about 6 others before a stash of 6mm bits were found hidden under the display table. It would be worthwhile for anyone local to McJings to take some digital calipers etc. and go through their stock.

I have looked at the hinges from Hardware for Creative Finishes, and the McJing's hinges look the same to me, and are better priced.

This box was made using the plans from Gifkins using Silky Oak, Jarrah and Huon Pine and the abovementioned strap hinges.

20161205_155727.jpg

I must admit that fitting hinges isn't one of my favourite pastimes, but is very satisfying when things eventually go to plan.

Alan...

PS. I have become a victim of the dreaded rotated image bug.

Nice box Uncle Al.

Hi folks,

After reading this thread I decided to try out these hinges, the ones mentioned at the start. Two questions maybe for Alex and Double D. On Alex's box there doesn't seem to be any bevel on the rear of the box as DD suggested?. Do you install them so the back of the hinge is flush with the back of the box,..?. And DD, you sure you would need to bevel the back...?. I just measured mine, they arrive today, they were 6.05mm. I think I have a 6mm router bit, will check tomorrow. Then set about to make up some sort of a jig.

Paul

Paul, I haven't had a good look at the hinges you have purchased. But if they're the same as the smart hinge from the UK (they look like it), you don't need to put a bevel on the back. Also, if you got a router table, I think you're better of using that to install the hinges. It literally takes under 5 minutes including set up to cut the hinge recess on a router table. I reckon it's safer/more accurate also.

I posted a link earlier on in this thread that explains how to do it on a router table. I installed a set last week using the same method and it worked perfectly.

It's a crappy pic but this is a box I made a few years ago. No bevel and the hinge protrudes slightly.

IMG_1165.JPG

Thanks for that Gr, I did watch that video and have that process in my mind. Not sure if these hinges are meant to protrude a bit or not. I'll do some experimenting first, and hopefully can set up a jig similar to yours and that video. I started prepping some timber this arvo for my "trial" box with these hinges. Out of some Tasmanian Myrtle.

Paul

If you leave the knuckle of the hinge protruding you don't have to bevel.

Also, if you completely house the hinge you will have to deepen the groove under the knuckle, by just the length of the knuckle so the lid leaf does not bind on the box.

Best to experiment on some pieces first, you will soon find out what works.

If you line up the pin in the knuckle of these hinges with the rear of the box, as you do with butt hinges, you will need to bevel top and bottom. If you let the hinge protrude further out of the box, then you don't need to bevel. Have a look at the hinge closely. Lay it on its side in the closed position, and you will see as you open it, there is a lip that protrudes below the level of the hinge.
This is quite different to the Smart Hinge, in that this lip does not show, so there is no need to bevel. The Smart hinge is a very well designed and manufactured hinge, albeit expensive. But you get what you pay for.
On the cheap 6mm hinges, there is no need to bevel the full width of the hinge, just a tiny section where the lip interferes with the box timber. I use a tiny flat file

As advised by others above, with the real SmartHinges you don't have to bevel the back of the box, just leave the knuckle protruding. In the instructions, the size of the spacer to go between the cutter and stop on the router table is given. If you use that, it is literally, as Andy says, 5 minutes work to set the hinges.
If using the strap hinges, I've previously done the same thing - made a spacer that lets the knuckle protrude out the back - but I like Dengue's idea of just a small bevel at the hinge.

Hi gang,

Thanks for putting me onto those strap hinges. I bought 5pairs of the ones first mentioned on this thread. $8 a pair. I bought a 6mm straight bit, and I tell you what, they fit perfect. They fit that well you can put the box together without any screws. A very simple measuring perspect block makes these so simple to router the slot. As you say, done in a few minutes. I also bought a couple of the other similar strap hinges referred to on this thread from the other place. As I had to buy something else from them. Those ones were 5.8mm wide. I have a very close straight bit to that measurement, but they are certainly not a tight fit.

The first mentioned ones are much better made quality.

This is the box I just made using them.

Hey Paul, so the hinges were the HW4CF? Strap Hinges 6mm x 35mm - Veneer Inlay

Where did you end up getting the 6mm cutter from?

Hi there WoodPixel

Yes correct, they are the hinges I bought. Very good quality I thought. Much better in comparison to the other mentioned ones. The router bit I bought was

Router Bit 6mm Straight 1/4" Shank Econocut by Carbitool Carb-i-tool EY206M | eBay

Like I said WoodPixel when using those hinges with this bit they fit like a very tight glove. Even have to push the hinges in. Then you can put your lid on the box, check it all out, without even putting a screw in.

By the way the timber in that box was Tasmanian Myrtle with a bit of Australian Red Cedar tossed in.

Paul