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  1. #16
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    Dec 2011
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    Harrington, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Are the leaves of the hinge actually 6mm wide? I got some hinges from another supplier at a good price but the leaves are only about 5.8mm wide so there is no router bit that cuts the rebate to the correct width in one pass.
    I have started to practice with the hinges on some scrap as per Pauls instructions. That is a great way to set the hinges, I was mucking around with my Dremel and a small base I got for it - rubbish! Using the router table and my larger Makita and it seems to be going well, I still need some practice.

    My hinges are 5.8mm wide. I have a 5.8m and a 6.1mm bit.

    If I use the 5.8mm bit the hinge is too tight. I have yet to swap over to the 6.1 - tomorrow. If it is then loose I will go with the 5.8 and pare it in with a razor.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
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    119

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    Glue up the next layer of the sides
    SideBuildUp.jpg

    Another layer - the tongue and grooves are pulling the lot into alignment well
    SidesGlueUp.jpg

    Next job is to glue the prev glued up lid and first layer to the layers in the pic above, this was most difficult as I has the clamp a rounded piece to the square pieces below. So I made some curved pieces to put between the lid and the clamps all went well.

    Next job was to sand the whole thing square and true. Took the bulk of with the belt sander and progressed to spoke shave and then block sanding.

    SandSides.jpg
    Sand Sidesand Top.jpg

    I then split the box with a fine saw on the saw bench and sanded the mating surfaces with 2 sheets 180 grit that I have adhered to the work bench with spray contact glue.

    Making bottom insert and trays now. Have rebated bottom and let a formed up panel into the bottom.
    Mean time still playing with hinges and router.

    Have gone cold on the Paua shell inlay to the top, I think it is beyond me to get it as I envision. I think I may use Rose Decals and put them between layers of clear lac when I am finishing.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
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    4,681

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    Quote Originally Posted by duke12 View Post
    My hinges are 5.8mm wide. I have a 5.8m and a 6.1mm bit.

    If I use the 5.8mm bit the hinge is too tight. I have yet to swap over to the 6.1 - tomorrow. If it is then loose I will go with the 5.8 and pare it in with a razor.
    That's an unusual size router bit as it doesn't line up with anything, metric or imperial.
    What you can do is use the 5.8mm bit and rout your mortice and then put a piece of masking tape on the fence so that it pushes the material away from the fence just a smidgen and your rebate will be the thickness of the masking tape wider which might be just enough to allow the hinge to fit snugly. If not, add more layers of tape.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
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    Wow isn't it the simple ideas that are the best thanks Treecycle. I will go with that a bit of tape.

    Yes odd size, I have a box of old inherited bits from my grandfather who was a cabinet maker for NSW Gov Railways a century ago, lucky old Duke had access to tons of red cedar a lot of which ended up in North coast trains. He left me lots of imperial stuff and great old tools. The bit may have been a smidgen large and worn a small amount as it is quite old.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

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    Testing with the 5.8mm bit for fitting the hinges.
    For me it is better than the 6.1mm as this ended up with the hinge a little sloppy.
    I finished with the 5.8 plus 3 bits of masking tape to tune the rebate.
    The fit is now push snug.
    The measurement of the offset for the backstop rail is 22.5mm from the stop to the blade of the bit (nearest side)
    The depth is almost flush - a little proud about .5mm

    Opening the test piece is very nice with perfect alignment on closing. The back of the hinge protrudes out the back about 3mm - looks ok and there is no binding when open with good clearance from bottom to top piece.

    HingeTest1 (1).jpg
    HingeTest2 (2).jpg
    HingeTest1 (3).jpg
    HingeTest1 (4).jpg
    HingeTest1 (5).jpg

    Back to the trays..

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
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    If anyone wants a working SolidWorks model file of the hinge with dimensions and limit stops in place I can send
    I made that to get a better understanding of it's actions etc
    All the measurements were taken from the hinge with digital verniers


    SolidWorksHinge.jpg

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
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    65
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    4,681

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    I wouldn't mind the file as it might save having to draw it for myself in the future.
    I will PM you with an email address as I don't think you will be able to post it here.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

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    Sent via email today
    Cheers Duke

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
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    Making dividers for trays. Formed up a little jig on the band saw for cross joints.

    Some test runs.
    20180915_143926.jpg

    20180915_144232.jpg

    Any ideas for lining? and ideas for a catch for the front?

    I saw some "Panne Velvet" dark blue at Spotlight seems nice stuff, a bit stretchy though. I guess I would have to make some cardboard backing to install it. Double sided sticky tape then? Seems like a lot of fiddly trouble? What about sticky back felt from the same place instead?

    In the mean time I have been doing spay coats of nitro.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    1,610

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    Another option is flocking - glue (optionally coloured), then puff powdery fibres over the glue.
    Gives a velour-like finish. I think Timbecon is a supplier, but there's sure to be other craft stores that carry supplies.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
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    Bl@@dy trays.

    Had a look at flocking and decided it was too thin a finish and I wonder how it would last with normal wear and tear?

    I have been trying to fit liners made from a cardboard backing with batting filler covered with a velour fabric. I got all of this stuff from her Bunnings (Spotlight). The fabric looks great on the roll but handling it is difficult. I get the glue gun going to stick the arrangement together and I end up with drips of the stuff everywhere. My fingers get coated with blobs of glue and tiny balls of fabric. Very hard to manipulate the fabric as it frays when it touches the hot melt glue and does not allow for repositioning. Grrrrr toooo hard for me.

    As you can see the result is less than perfect.

    I am going to start again today with different material. They have some felt squares in about the same color and I will try their self adhesive and non self adhesive with double sided tape.

    Hope that goes better.

    Building the coopered lid box was easy compared to this part. Oh and I still have to decide on a front catch?

    20180929_071840.jpg
    20180929_071904.jpg

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    Spray adhesive is the trick. As you are trying to over the lip of the centre divider, make up a mock divider then use double sided tape to hold in shape. Then spray, wait til tacky then start at ones side and work your way up and over then down the other side flattening as you go. Then lift out, trim up leaving roughly 5-10mm over hang, flip over, spray the other side around edges, getting both material and card. Wait 5-10min then press down the excess, mitring the corners. A small tip, when cutting the corners, don't cut exactly to the corner of the card, be proud by 2mm and the corner will be a perfect fit. Here's one I prepared earlier (although not like yours but the principle was the same.

    IMG_4904.jpg IMG_4905.jpg

    I put a tab of tape on on the back so I can test fit and remove easily.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
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    I chickened out after getting in a mess with glues.

    Tried the adhesive backed felt and it was good to cut out but when taking the cover off the sticky stuff it became harder. The stuff instantly sticks to anything making repositioning impossible. If you do get it off it leaves the sticky behind in a mess.

    I went with the felt squares and roll of doubled sided tape. Real easy to use cut the pieces out with a razor knife trial fitted them then put the tape onto the felt piece. Repositioning is very easy if you don't press the taped piece down hard until satisfies with the way it is sitting.

    I like the result. Now onto finishing and fit a latch.

    20180929_150608.jpg20180929_150653.jpg

  15. #29
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    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
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    1,186

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    Looking good very Duke, well done, you're persevering. I know what you mean about that adhesive back felt. I used to use it, still have a very large roll of it which might get used one day.

    Paul

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
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    On to the ring holder rack
    I tried to make dividers out of the felt I used for the tray but I found when I rolled it up the roll had a crinkled appearance as the felt would not roll up smoothly.

    I ended up using some EPe foam roll as a former. The foam is 400mm long and 12.5mm dia. Got it at the Foam Place.
    Got some of the suede from Spotlight.
    Using Sellys "Shoe glue" I wrapped and glued the suede around the former.

    Very easy to do and looks very neat with just the right amount of give to insert rings between the rolls. Took me all of ten minutes.

    20181105_101951.jpg

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