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  1. #1
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    Default Start with an idea

    I needed a project for the winter so here goes.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #2
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    Dec 2011
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    Harrington, NSW
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    Default

    Preparing stock
    Stock.jpg2018-08-04 08-42-49.588083200.jpg
    Staves edged to 18deg
    Cutting staves and assembly of coopered lid insert
    2018-08-01 13-25-27.572289024.jpg2018-08-01 13-24-21.567603200.jpg2018-08-01 13-24-36.569241600.jpg
    Fairing inside and outside with scrapers inside and small block plane outside - sanding smooth
    2018-08-04 08-40-51.580841472.jpg

    Fun

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
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    Default

    Routing top side bits using stave jig as guide. Very fiddly I think there must be a better way for this. I made 4 before I found a way to anchor the pieces while routing. I ended up making them much longer than need so I could clamp the ends to the table securely.

    TopsidesRouting.jpg

    Pieces prepared to take the curved top.

    Topside2.jpg

    Top side pieces mated to curved top.

    Fittopsides.jpg

    Top side rails routed to take side of top curve. Top side rails edge grooved to take side pieces further down. All side pieces will be built up - tongue and grooved. I favor building up panels using this method as it resists warping from my experience.

    Routetoprails.jpg

    Glue up top complete.

    GluUpTop.jpg

    Trimming top rails with small block plane. Very slowly turning each corner so plane enters from outside to prevent break outs. Finished up with hard block and paper 180. 240 later.

    TrimTop.jpg

    Second layer being glued up. Note grooves for tongues. Tongues made up from 3mm ripped of the side pieces - less waste.

    20180823_102650.jpg
    20180822_132209.jpg

  5. #4
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    Jun 1999
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    Westleigh, Sydney
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    Default

    Watching this with interest, as I made several similar boxes. A point of difference in the jigs we used to glue up the curved lids - see the following picture. I'm not sure if one is easier than the other.

    Glue-up 2.jpg
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
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    Default

    Yes I have seen that process before. Both seem to work ok.
    I did glue up the staves to form the curve. The tape just makes it easier to handle prior to wedging it in the jig.

    Holding the staves inside a curve or outside shouldn't matter, just that they are held I guess. Obviously both work.

    My way I get to use the same jigs 2, again for reference when routing the side top plates. My jig does not need clamps to hold the staves together. The small wedges hold it firmly while the glue sets up.

    I am making trays at the moment, will post some more piccys tomorrow of the case being laid up.

    I want to inlay some Paua in the form of a rose into the top of the curve last and haven't a clue how to do it yet.
    Still I have until Christmas!

  7. #6
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    Sep 2011
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    Default

    Wow and nice, huge job, well done.

    Paul

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
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    Default

    I got hold of some nice little strap hinges that look good for the job.



    Had a go on some scrap wood at installing these as they look very nice. They stop at 105 deg so I will not need stays. I think!

    But I am not confident to install them yet. I got a 6mm dowel plug drill and sharpened the tip to a point and that locates and cuts the round end of the mortise nicely. I scribed and chiseled out the mortise ok and had the strap fitting almost flush with the wood. As I opened the dummy lid piece the top aris edges of what would be the box seemed to foul each other. Maybe because I made the back of the hinge flush with the sides.????

    Should I hang the pivot outside of the box?

    I am not game to take to the box yet with the chisel until I can do this better.

    If someone can help me out or point me to a good "how to" for these hinges I would appreciate it.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    If you want to fit that hinge to the box "as is" you'll need to set it with an over-hang, so the centre of the hinge's pivot point just clears the back face of the box. Otherwise you'll get interference on opening.

    If you're willing to round over the arrises of the lid and box along the hinge line you can creep the hinges forward, but I don't recommend trying to creep 'em so far forward as to sit fully flush. The further the hinge is inset, the more needs to be removed from the arris and IMO that would probably be too much with how I anticipate your design going.

    Besides, having the hinges exposed - however slightly - tell the end user "Open from the other side, dummy!"
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #9
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    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
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    Default

    Thanks for the reply.

    Ah so you are saying that the center of the hinge axle is the critical point and should be outside the box.?
    I might run this up as a motion model in SolidWorks to actually watch the action.

    My thinking was to have a pretty flush finish at the back for aesthetics but I am not willing to trade function for form.
    So whatever works best I will use. I still feel I need to practice this a bit before going onto the box.

    Are these hinges a bit weak ie is it easy to over open the lid and cause breakout with the hinge screws ripping out. I did not want to go down the route of chains or stays. Probably would go for no hinges if that was the case.

    More piccys soon.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Leopold, Victoria
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    I used some of those hinges at the weekend and mistakenly morticed them too far in so they were virtually flush and had to chamfer the back of the box and lid to allow them to clear each other. As Skew said, you need to leave them protrude a little for them to function correctly and not have to modify the box.
    Good to see someone else using Solidworks. I was starting to think I was the only one.
    Dallas

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
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    Default

    Hi there Duke,

    This is how you install those type of hinges.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEhM9nuUPm8

    I've made myself a setup very similar to what Andrew has on this video. Your hinges are not what he uses, but they are similar,and the process is still the same.
    There is a couple of little tricks to this which are probably contained somewhere without me searching for them. First up get a 2 pieces of scrap timber and get your 6mm router bit to protrude above your router table the thickness of one arm of your hinge. Hence in your case 2.75mm. With your two pieces of scrap timber very carefully run an end across your router bit (while your router is on), I did say very carefully, from right to left. Keep a firm grip on your scrap timber, make them a good foot or so long. Just enough to router a small cut across the end of your scrap timber. Do this on both pieces of timber. Hold the 2 pieces together and put your hinge in where you just routered out. If your height is correct, your hinge will just sit there without falling out.

    If the hinge falls out, or is too tight, correct your height.

    Ok, now the router bit is set to height. Next step is to adjust your fence. If your timber your using is say 10mm, you need your fence exactly 2mm from your router bit (from the closest edge to the fence). Then you need to set your stop in place. I have two measuring templates, one the same as this video which is 34mm, which I use if I want to use Andrew's hinges. My other measuring template is 26mm, but I think my other smaller hinges are slightly different in length to your one.

    Then its just like Andrew does in this video. When your measuring for your stop its very important that you get your closest part of your router bit up tight against the measuring template. Then you have to change sides and if that is a smidgeon out, the lids never line up perfectly.

    Where did you get that hinge from. I have to order some more, I always get mine from

    https://www.veneerinlay.com.au/strap...mm-x-35mm.html

    I think mine are 5mm longer, I wouldn't really want to go any shorter. Matter of fact I need to order more, must do that.

    Good luck

    Paul

  13. #12
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    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by duke12 View Post
    Ah so you are saying that the center of the hinge axle is the critical point and should be outside the box.?
    I might run this up as a motion model in SolidWorks to actually watch the action.
    When the front of the lid moves up, everything on the 'wrong' side of the pivot point moves down. Think of a see-saw.

    Are these hinges a bit weak ie is it easy to over open the lid and cause breakout with the hinge screws ripping out. I did not want to go down the route of chains or stays. Probably would go for no hinges if that was the case.
    I wouldn't say the hinges are weak. However, once you have sufficient interference with opening the hinge - ie. providing a second fulcrum that isn't the hinge pivot - there's enough leverage that even a child can break it with little effort.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  14. #13
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    Dec 2011
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    Harrington, NSW
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  15. #14
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    Are the leaves of the hinge actually 6mm wide? I got some hinges from another supplier at a good price but the leaves are only about 5.8mm wide so there is no router bit that cuts the rebate to the correct width in one pass.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by duke12 View Post
    Thanks for that link.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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