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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Default How to string and key a box at the same time ?

    Hello, I am making a jarrah box 120 H x 250 x 150 with mitred corners. I have cut it all out, put in the slots for the base and the lid, and for the tray support shelf.

    I was going to just make keys of Qld Ash to strengthen the joints, but today I had two whitish coloured rubber bands around it, top and bottom, about 2.5mm wide, and it looked magnificent. So, stringing it will be, although I have never done any before. I have a 2.8mm wide blade for the table saw, with triple chip cutters that I was going to use for the keys.

    Hence the problem. How do I strengthen the mitre joints and at the same time use stringing? I only want the two perimeter stringing to be visible, and they will be located on the lid and on the bottom of the box, about 15mm from the top and the bottom respectively.

    One possible solution is to reinforce the mitre joints with splines, but I haven't come across a good, reliable jig that will do slots for splines along the inner edges of each mitre joint.

    I would welcome any suggestions and ideas, or even links to where it has been done before.

    Also, how high should the lid be for a box this size? The corners will need strengthening. I was thinking of cutting the top off at about 20mm, with a 12 mm lid fitted to it via the slots in the sides and the lid , as per the attached drawing below ( ignore the timber thickness dimensions shown). That doesn't leave much room for the stringing
    Attached Images Attached Images
    regards,

    Dengy

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  3. #2
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    Mar 2008
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    Default

    Just thinking a bit further, the mitred corners need to be reinforced just above and just below the lid cutoff line. The 4mm marine ply base will be glued in, so that will strengthen the bottom of each corner.

    Forgot to mention, the wall thickness of the box is 11 mm
    regards,

    Dengy

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    Default

    If you can wait a day or two I'll take some pics of the rig I use for cutting spline slots - repeatable and accurate enough for this mug! Do you have an arbor and slot cutter for your router?????
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  5. #4
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    Default

    thanks TTT, look forward to seeing it, sooner the better please.

    Yes, I have a slot cutter for my router table - I use the Gifkins one with approx 22mm diameter, and a bearing that allows slots 4mm wide and 5 mm deep.

    Not sure what you mean by an arbor
    regards,

    Dengy

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Clovelly NSW
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    44

    Default Hidden Sple Mitre Jig

    Mite Spline Mitre Jig.jpg Make a jig from 2 pieces of ply, each with a cut at 45 degrees and join them together. Then add a stop block ensuring that it is square to the bottom edge. This can the be used on your router table. To set it up firstly use a 6 mm straight cut router bit. To set the fence set the jig against the fence with the box piece in the jig so that you can judge the height you want the cut to be. Be careful not to cut to deep so as to cut right through, I know I have done this. Now set some stop blocks for the length of the cut. I usually use a spacer block to judge the edge of the cutter to the edge of the workpiece. I realise this may sound confusing so I have attached a photo of my jig. By the way I think you mean mitre keys not strings

    Hope this is of some help

  7. #6
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    Default

    Many thanks mcintoad, much appreciated. Will have a go at knocking one up tomorrow on a 18mm plywood board I have left over.

    I do mean stringing. I want to put a string of silver ash 2.8mm wide x say 3 mm deep all the way around around the top and bottom of the box, about 13mm from the top and bottom edges. This should clear the floating lid and the base.
    regards,

    Dengy

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    3,330

    Default

    My understanding of what you are saying here is that you want to have contrasting stringing towards the top and bottom of the box and dont want mitre keys spoiling the look of the box (overcomplicating it visually). If so, use veneer feathers. You will need to make or find some jarrah veneer which matches the box, say 1mm maximum thickness. Glue the box up, then using a handsaw with a kerf equal to the width of the veneer, cut slots across each corner as deep as you can without going right through, glue little bits of veneer up, and slide them into the slots. If you do it right, the feathers will be almost invisible. Strong though.

    On the base section, if you are confident the glued-in plywood will hold it together at the bottom, then you will need them just below the line where you separate box and lid.

    On the lid, you will need them at top and bottom.

    I admire your approach. Less is more.
    Cheers
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  9. #8
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    Default

    you want to have contrasting stringing towards the top and bottom of the box and don't want mitre keys spoiling the look of the box
    Yes, that's right Arron. Not that mitre keys are unattractive, just thought that two bands of stringing on the vertical sides right around the box will look good, going on what I saw when I had a couple of light coloured rubber bands holding the pieces in place in a dry assembly.

    And this was after I had just made a jig to cut the key slots on the box

    The box is 120mm high, and the lid will be, say, 20mm high, so will put the stringing as a band around the perimeter of the box at 30mm from the top and the bottom ( ie 1/4 of the overall height, if that makes sense). Not sure how it will look, with the upper band of stringing just 10mm down from the lid opening. Will soon find out

    Alternatively, I can cut the lid off at 30mm from the top, making a 30mm high lid, and put the stringing band at 15mm from the top around the lid itself, and 15mm from the bottom. Will have a play with rubber bands tomorrow

    Thanks for the introduction to veneer feathers, was unaware of this technique
    regards,

    Dengy

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    Default

    Better late than never eh!

    Pics as promised. Excuse the extra holes, cut-out etc in the jig but I like to recycle good ply - a lot - I think this is the 3rd incarnation for this particular piece Decided to do a double spline to show how it can be used to create a very strong joint. Using the 4mm cutter also means you can use 4mm ply to make your splines which can add a decorative effect where the ends are visible.

    Just ask if it doesn't make sense!?!?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    UK
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dengue View Post
    Hello, I am making a jarrah box 120 H x 250 x 150 with mitred corners. I have cut it all out, put in the slots for the base and the lid, and for the tray support shelf.

    I was going to just make keys of Qld Ash to strengthen the joints, but today I had two whitish coloured rubber bands around it, top and bottom, about 2.5mm wide, and it looked magnificent. So, stringing it will be, although I have never done any before. I have a 2.8mm wide blade for the table saw, with triple chip cutters that I was going to use for the keys.

    Hence the problem. How do I strengthen the mitre joints and at the same time use stringing? I only want the two perimeter stringing to be visible, and they will be located on the lid and on the bottom of the box, about 15mm from the top and the bottom respectively.

    One possible solution is to reinforce the mitre joints with splines, but I haven't come across a good, reliable jig that will do slots for splines along the inner edges of each mitre joint.

    I would welcome any suggestions and ideas, or even links to where it has been done before.

    Also, how high should the lid be for a box this size? The corners will need strengthening. I was thinking of cutting the top off at about 20mm, with a 12 mm lid fitted to it via the slots in the sides and the lid , as per the attached drawing below ( ignore the timber thickness dimensions shown). That doesn't leave much room for the stringing
    No need to hide the splines / keys, make them part of the decoration like this.

    With tassel.JPG

    The splines are fitted using a standard jig on your table saw, I have a 2.8 mm kerf blade and I use five layers of veneer to get the different colours, then the stringing is applied with a router.

    Andy

  12. #11
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    Default

    Thanks for this Andy, this is an excellent solution to the problem. I like the box, congratulations on a job very well done. Excellent craftmanship

    Do you use 0.6mm thick veneers to make the keys?
    regards,

    Dengy

  13. #12
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    Location
    UK
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dengue View Post
    Thanks for this Andy, this is an excellent solution to the problem. I like the box, congratulations on a job very well done. Excellent craftmanship

    Do you use 0.6mm thick veneers to make the keys?
    Yes, the veneers are 0.6 mm, I use five because the odd number allows you to vary the selection of colours, an even number doesn't, five layers add up to 3 mm (approx). If you have an old circular saw blade get it sharpened to a kerf width of 2.8 mm and with flat topped teeth, if not get a cheapo one off ebay or somewhere and get it doctored, it can then be your dedicated spline blade. Sometimes the splines slip in just nicely and sometimes they need a little flattening with a hammer, a thick flat piece of steel is good for this. Check your splines for fit before applying glue.

    Andy

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    Default

    Assemble the box and install keys on the mitres. Let the glue dry and sand the keys back flush. Install the stringing over the top of the keys. The stringing only has to be a couple of millimetres deep.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  15. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    Assemble the box and install keys on the mitres. Let the glue dry and sand the keys back flush. Install the stringing over the top of the keys. The stringing only has to be a couple of millimetres deep.
    That'd be right - go ahead and make the solution so simple we all look like proper dills
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

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