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  1. #31
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Another beautiful box

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  3. #32
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    Finished oiling it and re-assembled it. I'm reasonably happy with it, I think the leg structure has achieved the sort of Japanese look I was looking for. This will be my entry in Double Take in Wood in Melbourne this October. Finished in Livos Kunos oil, and uses Andrew Crawford's Smartware Hinges & locks..

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  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I walked into the Bungendore Woodworks yesterday and from across the room spied two boxes -- my immediate reaction was "they're Alex's boxes"
    I could tell by the feet.

    Always impressed by your work.
    Earlier this year I also had the pleasure of visiting the Bungendore Woodworks Gallery and it was nice to see Alex's boxes there.
    I think a visit to Bungendore should be high on any woodworkers to do list.

    Regards
    Keith

  5. #34
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    good luck in the double take
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  6. #35
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    Well done Alex, you've done well. I'll have to look into those locks from Andrew Crawford, how difficult are they to install?

    Also what do you use as a backdrop for your photos?

    Cheers

  7. #36
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    The locks are easy to install. Just cut a slot and a mortice, with the router fence in the same position as for the hinges. You'll need a 1/4" or 6mm cutter that will do at least 25mm for the mortice. It's just a matter of setting stop blocks in the right positions.

    The backdrop is a sheet of styrofoam that I painted matt grey, but it still seems to have a bit of a sheen. The other side I've painted black, but it's a bit tatty so I'll have to give it another coat or two.
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  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    From a total newbie, how do you attach the foam/pigskin to the base?


    Tiger Myrtle & Australian White Beech Box-img_1201-jpg

  9. #38
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    Wrap it in cardboard using spray, glue or tape.

    Spray can be 3M Super77, glue can be Titebond (let it dry, then literally iron it on) or use super-dooper-incredible tape from China: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5mm-100mm-wide-Choose-30-Meters-For-Shoes-Clothes-Bag-Embroidered-Stitch-Fasten-Double-Sided-Oil/32622031350.html

    I
    use the tape. Its strength is something to behold!

    For cardboard, cereal boxes, or the thick stuff from the newsagents.

    Legend Doug Stowe:


  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    From a total newbie, how do you attach the foam/pigskin to the base?
    ]
    I Use Titebond II.
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  11. #40
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    Really noice
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  12. #41
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    woodPixel - link to the double sided tape does not work
    regards,

    Dengy

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    I Use Titebond II.
    Just for clarity, do you just glue the foam to the base, and then glue the pigskin to the foam?

    Where do you get the pigskin from? Ebay?

  14. #43
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    Apologies for that, here it is: double sided tape

  15. #44
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    Apply the glue to the back of the pigskin, let it dry. Then just iron it directly onto the backing.

    It's very reliable, but you'll need a cloth under the iron to control heat and marking the leather.

    I was taught this on the forum. Sage advice, for i did a big job making presentation trays/displays for Myers all over Oz with pig akin split. Worked beautifully. I happen to know that after 2 years of daily use they are still going strong.

    Best price for pig skin split is Sydneys Leather Co Cowhides Australia - Cowhide & Sheepskin Rugs, Cushions, Leather Bags & Upholstery ... Good range and prices, quick turnaround.

    I've also a direct supplier of coloured suede, but can't find the details.... Will advise.

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    Just for clarity, do you just glue the foam to the base, and then glue the pigskin to the foam?

    Where do you get the pigskin from? Ebay?
    Yes, that's what I do. The pigskin comes from NSW Leather.

    Apply the glue to the back of the pigskin, let it dry. Then just iron it directly onto the backing.

    It's very reliable, but you'll need a cloth under the iron to control heat and marking the leather.


    That's exactly how it's done, except that I use brown paper instead of cloth under the iron. Seems either will work. Also, I wrap the base in glad wrap when gluing the box up. You can remove it after you've finished oiling etc.
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