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  1. #16
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    No, I only use it on dovetails & finger joints, because it can be tinted and gives me more time to do the glue-up.
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  3. #17
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    May 2007
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    thanks
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  4. #18
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    Feb 2005
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    I've got plenty of white beech, from 300mm wide inch boards x 3 metres long to 270x270 thick posts for carving
    Greg

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Thanks for posting this build Alex. That will be an exceptional box.
    What have you used to make the escutcheon plate?
    And my head I'd be a scratchin'
    While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
    If I only had a brain.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Westleigh, Sydney
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    White beech again, Ruddy.
    All glued up today, will post pics tomorrow. Started on the liner this afternoon.
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  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    I glued the leg structures on, and also the scutch plate and lifter. The lifter is dowelled using Japanese wooden nails. I did a bit of experimenting with them - my initial idea was to leave a little bit protruding and shape it like a shallow pyramid - but decided to pare them flush with the lifter.

    Once they'd dried and been cleaned up, I fitted the latches and hinges. Perhaps it's a relic of my days using butt hinges, but I still fit them one screw at a time, in case any fine adjustment is needed. With Andrew Crawford's SmartHinges, this is rarely needed. For the initial hinge fit, I use steel screws, because the last thing I want is to break a screw off, and this is more likely to happen with brass. The steel screws are as scarce as rocking horse manure, and these were kindly sent to me by Dengue - I don't know where he found them, but thanks, Dengue.

    IMG_1208.jpg

    IMG_1211.jpg

    IMG_1209.jpg

    IMG_1207.jpg

    IMG_1206.jpg

    The next steps will be to remove the hinges & lock, oil the box, and make the tray and its supports to fit.
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  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Hi Alex

    what size steel screw do you need?

    I might have some suitable ones back in Canada.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Interesting box - I'm not sure I like the form work but it is sort of growing on me
    more importantly than what I think - I hope the client likes it.

    I also might have the odd steel screw lying around - let me know the size

    We also often get such dumped at the men's shed and the chaps down there don't really use them
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    3,207

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    Alex,

    Love the combination of timbers. A question; you've said previously that the bottom panel is entirely floating (presumably housed in a groove in the sides), but is the top panel also completely glue-free and floating in a groove as well? Or do you tack it in place with a small amount of glue somewhere near the centreline of the end grain edge?

    Also, any trick for getting such a neat job with the hinge cutouts? I'm guessing set up on a router table with a stop block at the appropriate point on the fence, and take multiple shallow passes with a spiral downcut bit?

    I personally like the design of the leg structures. You always seem to come up with interesting ideas for this !

    Cheers

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Darkest NSW
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    Re. screws for the hinges, I keep a few gauges/lengths of tine brass square drive screws (Sachys) for this, and always make sure i buy some of the exact same size in steel for the initial installation. One brass screw snapping off in a hard timber is enough to spoil your whole week !!

    Bit of a knack to clocking the screws so that the square drive holes all line up though.....

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
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    is the top panel also completely glue-free and floating in a groove as well? Or do you tack it in place with a small amount of glue somewhere near the centreline of the end grain edge?
    Yes, a small dob of glue in the groove at each end, and once it's glued up I make sure the panel is centred.

    The screw size is #3 5/8". I don't need more at present, thanks, as I re-use the ones have.

    Also, any trick for getting such a neat job with the hinge cutouts?
    Not really. I only have a straight cutter (well I do have a downcut bit, but no collet for it). I keep it clean & make sure it's sharp, and do a practice run on some scrap. I don't do multiple passes, as it's only 3mm deep. Setting stop blocks is easy with a setting gauge. In the hinge instructions Andrew Crawford gives the dimension it needs to be.
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  13. #27
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    Nov 2005
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    Darkest NSW
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    Cheers Alex - as always, lots of useful information in your box-making posts

  14. #28
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    Nov 2003
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    Sydney
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    Beautiful work as usual Alex.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Westleigh, Sydney
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    Now that the carcass is finished, I've started on the liners and tray. The liners are a tight fit, but are not glued in. they are there to support the tray.
    The tray will be white beech, with a suede lined bottom the same as the carcass.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]417878[/ATTACH

    I've given the liners a coat of oil, as well as oiling the inside of the tray sides before gluing it up. While waiting for the tray to dry, I removed the brassware and gave the carcass its first exterior coat of oil.
    ]IMG_1227.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  16. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    I walked into the Bungendore Woodworks yesterday and from across the room spied two boxes -- my immediate reaction was "they're Alex's boxes"
    I could tell by the feet.

    Always impressed by your work.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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