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29th July 2017, 07:13 PM #1
Tiger Myrtle & Australian White Beech Box
Just started on my latest box, a legged jewellery box in Tasmanian tiger myrtle and Australian white beech.
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29th July 2017 07:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th July 2017, 07:33 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Looking forward to seeing this one finished. Is that MDF you use for the base Alex?
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29th July 2017, 07:59 PM #3
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29th July 2017, 08:28 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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It did rather take me aback Alex. Humble apologies. I'll wash it out with a wine if that's ok with you?
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29th July 2017, 09:11 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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I'd like to see the whole process if you are willing to post updates.
Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkMy YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE
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30th July 2017, 09:36 AM #6Skwair2rownd
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Looks interesting. Keep us posted.
Where did you get the white beach? I ask because it's hard to come by. The last time I saw any was the gate
my father made to stop us tumbling from the verandah down the steps to the front yard. It sat there long after
we had grown up and left home.Never did find our where it eventually got to. There were a few smaller pieces
dad had stored away and, apart from a piece he grudgingly gave to me so I could make a lamp at school, these also
disappeared to the next dimension.
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30th July 2017, 09:36 AM #7
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30th July 2017, 09:39 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Looking forward to see this one progress.... I like half blind dovetails and the choice of timbers.
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30th July 2017, 07:20 PM #9
After a coat of oil inside and out to prevent any squeeze-out sticking, I glued the carcass up using Techniglue epoxy, tinted to approximate the colour of the timber. I put plastic film over the suede on the bottom to keep it clean and prevent the glue getting on it. the film will stay there until the box is completed and oiled.
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Ideally, it's best to remove the squeeze-out after 4-5 hours, before the glue has completely hard, but as I had a prior commitment I had to leave it overnight. I removed the glue, then pared the ends of the dovetails with a chisel. It could be done with a low angle block plane, but a chisel does just as good a job.
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After the excess glue has been removed and the dovetail pins trimmed it's time to separate the lid from the base. I cut a slot almost through the sides, then cut all the way through with a Japanese saw.
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The next step will be to clean up and sand the cut edges.
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31st July 2017, 10:32 AM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Great idea with the plastic film inside the box Alex. How is the plastic held in, and do you just pull it out?
Regards
Keith
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31st July 2017, 06:05 PM #11
Yes Keith, it's just wrapped around the bottom panel, and pulled out when the box is finished. As well as keeping the glue & finish off the leather, it also stops the glue sticking to the panel, which would prevent it expanding & contracting with humidity. It just pulls out when you're done.
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31st July 2017, 10:17 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for that Alex, I will give it a try.
Regards
Keith
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1st August 2017, 08:44 AM #13
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2nd August 2017, 07:55 PM #14
After paring away the scrap from separating the lid & base I sanded both flat on 240 grid attached to 40mm laminate.
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The next step was to rout out the mortices for the lock and the hinges.
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After making the legs and supporting pieces, I made successive cuts on the sides of the box to house them. Next came a dry fit to see how everything looks. I also made a scutch plate for the lock.
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2nd August 2017, 08:13 PM #15
Great build with some exceptionally nice timber
a question if I may: Do you always use epoxy on your boxes and why?regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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