Thread: Another Walnut Box - this time with Tru-Oil

Thanks for that WIP as I am very interested in the best way to apply this oil too. There seems to be so many versions of applying it when you go online but the results you achieve speak for themselves.
A couple of questions:
Wiping off after 10 minutes, does this have the effect of slightly filling the grain due to the thickening of the oil or is it just smoothing the surface?
Your reason for using the 3M pad as apposed to fine sandpaper and where does the grey pad fit in the level of coarseness range? I think I have a burgundy and white pad at home but can't recall a grey.

Dallas

Hi Homey

Can I ask where you are getting your Tru-Oil from?

Thanks

Hi Dallas,

Yes, the wait does help fill the grain. However, if you leave it much longer the surface becomes sticky and difficult to wipe off, so wipe before it becomes sticky. If you misjudge it, use a little mineral turps on a rag.

Why the 3M pad? I’ve tried sandpaper but it clogs in seconds and can leave loose grit in the surface. I used to use 0000+ steel wool - very good but again bits fall off. I’m currently having a love affair with the superfine grey pads - I buy them from Timbecon

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sanding-...-abrasive-pads

As you say, there are lots of paths up the mountain so I don’t think this is the only (or even the best) way. There are one or two very good YouTube videos on guitar finishing using Tru-Oil. Worth a search.

Hi Graham,

I got mine from Rebel Gun Works in Qld. There are a number of stockists in Australia - search for

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil domain:au

Good hunting

Brian

Brian, thankyou for the indepth process, I will be gettin me some of this.

one question though, when you apply, is it a liberal coating like livos oil, ie saturate the surface and wipe of excess or just wipe on a small amount.

finishing has never really been my forte, hence me loving livos, it's pretty hard to mess up.

thanks again

Richard

Hi Richard,

I hear very good things about Livos Kunos but haven’t tried it yet. If you find it works for you I wouldn’t rush off

I use only a little Tru-Oil but wipe it in thoroughly. Too expensive to waste!

Cheers,

Brian

Just another question Brian, when you say wipe it off after 10 minutes do you do it with the oil soaked cloth used to apply it or a new clean one?

Thanks,
Dallas

Hi Dallas,

With a clean bit.

Brian

Thank you Homey for the Tru-Oil lesson!!!!

Agreed with the 3M scotch-brites. They are magical.

The Grey ones are these: https://www.3m.com.au/3M/en_AU/compa...3786499&rt=rud

They are used extensively in the automotive paint industry (a goldmine of useful sandpapers and surface prep products). E.g. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3M-SCOTC...-/251830293623

I used Tru-Oil on bowie and AAS Stiletto boxes once, but was too impatient..... I didn't follow the OPs process. Shall do that from now though!!!!

Its The Good Stuff.
knife (4).jpg knife (16).jpg knife (12).jpg

Originally Posted by homey

Hi Richard,

I hear very good things about Livos Kunos but haven’t tried it yet. If you find it works for you I wouldn’t rush off

I use only a little Tru-Oil but wipe it in thoroughly. Too expensive to waste!

Cheers,

Brian

I saw how much it was for 90ml, some $19.95, but I found a bottle on special 960ml for $48.99 so I bought some, and some scotchbrite pads from Timbecon.

Kunos Livos oil natural sealer #244 is very similar as its expensive also, but lacks the high gloss finish. its more a satin finish, more like adding a slight sheen to the timber whilst attaining the natural wet look of the timber. Sometimes you need the gloss without the polyeurethene plastic look/feel.

would you advise to use a sanding sealer first or is it a preferentcial choice type of deal?

Sorry, Richard - I missed this post. Sanding sealer? I don’t, because I want the oil to get into the wood, but someone else here will probably know the answer.

Good luck,

Brian

I use Kunos oil 50/50 with Bio-thinners almost exclusively, and it is possible to bring it up to a high polish if you so desire. My method of applying it is as follows.
First, I sand to 800 grit, and after cleaning the dust off with a metho-soaked paper towel, I give the work a coat of thin shellac. After the shellac has dried properly - an hour or so - I lightly sand the job with 800 again. Sanding it removes any sticky-uppy fibres and makes the piece much smoother to the touch, as well as opening up the pores again so the oil can penetrate. After sanding, clean the dust off, this time using a paper towel with white spirits. (White spirits won't dissolve shellac - metho will.)
Apply the oil with a soft cloth. T-shirt material is ideal. The first coat of oil is applied as a flood coat. After about 15 minutes, wipe off any excess, and leave the job overnight. The next coat is rubbed in with a generously loaded soft cloth, and after about 10-15 minutes, buffed with a clean cloth.
Leave the job overnight, and then apply the third coat using 0000 steel wool. Wipe the excess off straight away, and buff the oil with a clean cloth after 10-15 minutes. This step makes a huge difference to the appearance and feel of the work.
After that, each coat will have the effect of bringing up the gloss of the finish. These coats are applied by rubbing in a very small amount and buffing it after 10 minutes, using a clean cloth each time, and leaving it for a day between each coat. I wear white cotton gloves for this process. You can stop when you've reached the desired gloss. After about two weeks, the oil will have hardened.
This gets the finishing process off to start that obeys the old dictum -"Oil it once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year on your birthday." One of my clients has done this with her camphor laurel blanket box, and it looks amazing!

I use Kunos oil 50/50 with Bio-thinners almost exclusively, and it is possible to bring it up to a high polish if you so desire. My method of applying it is as follows.
First, I sand to 800 grit, and after cleaning the dust off with a metho-soaked paper towel, I give the work a coat of thin shellac. After the shellac has dried properly - an hour or so - I lightly sand the job with 800 again. Sanding it removes any sticky-uppy fibres and makes the piece much smoother to the touch, as well as opening up the pores again so the oil can penetrate. After sanding, clean the dust off, this time using a paper towel with white spirits. (White spirits won't dissolve shellac - metho will.)
Apply the oil with a soft cloth. T-shirt material is ideal. The first coat of oil is applied as a flood coat. After about 15 minutes, wipe off any excess, and leave the job overnight. The next coat is rubbed in with a generously loaded soft cloth, and after about 10-15 minutes, buffed with a clean cloth.
Leave the job overnight, and then apply the third coat using 0000 steel wool. Wipe the excess off straight away, and buff the oil with a clean cloth after 10-15 minutes. This step makes a huge difference to the appearance and feel of the work.
After that, each coat will have the effect of bringing up the gloss of the finish. These coats are applied by rubbing in a very small amount and buffing it after 10 minutes, using a clean cloth each time, and leaving it for a day between each coat. I wear white cotton gloves for this process. You can stop when you've reached the desired gloss. After about two weeks, the oil will have hardened.
This gets the finishing process off to start that obeys the old dictum -"Oil it once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year on your birthday." One of my clients has done this with her camphor laurel blanket box, and it looks amazing!

Alex, what number# Kunos do you use on your projects? I was looking on there site and they have different #'s products for different things.

Thanks Richard