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  1. #1
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    Sep 2011
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    Default Watch Box and three Dresser Valet Boxes

    Hi all, After getting a few custom orders for watch boxes I decided I needed to make something to simplify the process and at the same time look pretty neat. Routering a slot perpendicular to a given line, (in this case the bottom of the box) is always a pain. I guess you could set up fences etc. So I decided to make a miniature overhead router, that allows me to router a slot of a given length from A to B, then stop.

    In the case of the watch box (tasmanian blackwood) I routered the slots for the dividers before construction and determining exactly where I would be slicing the lid off. (to end my cut there).

    Then I had another idea kicking about in my head which turned into the three dresser valets. I started with one, was impressed with the outcome had to make another two. Enabled me to also use my little miniature overhead router to slot that also for the dividers. Dividers are 10mm thick and the slot is 5mm. I cut all the rebates on my table saw, just a bit of sneaking up to get everything to fit/fall into place nice and even and neat.

    I didn't put all the pics up of each of the valet boxes, just enough to give you an idea.

    Paul
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Albury
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    Default

    Nice job Paul. How big are the valet boxes? I like the fact that you make them without hinges, do you use timber or metal pins to hinge them?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Kew, Vic
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    Default

    Paul,

    Very nice indeed. I particularly like the glass topped watch boxes that allow you to show off the contents as well as the inside of your boxes!

    Could you tell us a little more about your overhead router - it sounds very interesting.

    Brian

  5. #4
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    Sep 2011
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    Default

    Hi Dave and Brian, and thank you. Dave, I used 5mm brass rods for the swivel lids. The first box was a sort of a trial (the first one was the one with the red ash sides). I made the lids 12mm thick, just to add that bit of extra chunk of timber (ARC), so I drilled half way into the timber 6mm, but I come in 7mm from the end. Then still had to still round off the top somewhat for the pivot action. I made the lids reasonably tight fitting, didn't want a huge gap there, but any bit of tightness soon vanished after I applied the Danish Oil, amazing eh. The lids end up propping open to I guess about 100 degrees. Sides of the box are 10mm.

    Overall size is 300mm x 185mm. I always like to stick to the golden ratio as much as I can, just gives that nice aesthetically correct appearance.

    Brian, this arvo I started preparing more timber, for 3 more boxes, two of which will be very similar watch boxes with the glass lid insert. One will hold 4 watches and the other will hold 2 watches and a cufflink section. In a couple of days I should have my dovetails etc cut and set up my "miniature overheard router". I'll take some pics for you. It is an interesting little invention, and pretty well cost me nothing, I had all the stuff.

    Regards
    Paul

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Default

    You come up with some really good jigs etc so I'm looking forward to some pictures of your router setup.
    Top work on the box as usual.
    Dallas

  7. #6
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    Thanks Dallas, I'll get some pics in the next day or two hopefully. Bowls on tomorrow but it hasnt stopped raining here all day and last night. Much needed rain.

    Regards, Paul

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    Nice work Paul. It must be the season as i've had two custom orders for watch boxes as well.

    Just finished this Sassafras one for stock.

  9. #8
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    Sep 2011
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    I finally got around to taking a few pics this arvo, after bowls. The pics are pretty self explanatory as to what I built. I used my dremel with the plunge accessory for it. The holes going through the plunge accessory which were designed to hold the fence on, were for a 1/4" rod. So I bought a couple of lengths of 1/4" steel rod which the Dremel runs along. There is a "stop" at one side of the rods which is my starting point. I will only use two bits for the dremel, a 1/4" and a 3/16". On the valets I used the 3/16", but for the watch box/es I will use the 1/4".

    Paul
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  10. #9
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    Oct 2008
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    That's a neat little setup. I have a small 1/4" Bosch router that I acquired years ago and never really use so I reckon I could utilise that to make something similar. Very handy to be able to see exactly where you are routing rather than it being hidden.
    Do you cut the long rebate the traditional way with a fence and stops and material upside down?
    Dallas

  11. #10
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    Hey there Dallas. I used to also have one of those Bosch plunge routers, my son owned it. I borrowed and kept it for a few years but then gave it back to him. It was pretty handy. I also have the smaller Triton plunge router but I really must get around to selling it. I think its still too bulky for a hand held router. Hasn't had a lot of use, I mainly used it for cutting the cavities into the guitars I built. But I am not making any more, ten was enough.

    That other rebate your referring to, is for the base to slip in to. That is cute with a rebate cutter after you have finished your dovetail cutting. Put the box together "dry", holds pretty well, maybe a clamp is handy. Then the rebate cutter runs around inside the bottom of the box. I set the depth of the rebate cutter to 6mm. When I pull the box apart, I router out a 3mm area on the base, coming in about 40mm to create those little "legs" you see on all my boxes.

    Come in about 40mm for the sides and about 30mm for the ends. This then leaves 3mm of timber for the base to rest on.

    Good luck with your builds,

    Paul

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