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Thread: Wave Box

  1. #16
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    Hi Ruddy,

    Here is the first trial using veneers from my bandsaw (about 1 mm thick), cut the same way you outlined, in a stack, but using a knife instead of a scroll saw. Woods are Totara and Kahikatea. The pieces were applied to an MDF backing with Titebond 1 using the dry coat/hot iron method, which I'd not used before. That seems to work well.

    This came out better than I expected although there are a few gaps and missing tiny points here and there. Okay for a first test piece but not good enough to use on a box. I thought applying a finish would make the defects jump out so I just waxed it and much to my surprise they actually seemed to disappear. Cutting this with a knife is not easy but I expect I'll persist with this as I can't imagine that cutting it with a fretsaw would be easy either. I do hanker for a Knew Concepts saw now though.

    Rex

    IMG_3590.jpg IMG_3589.jpg

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  3. #17
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    Id imagine if you hot sand shaded the parts it would exaggerate the 3D-ness

  4. #18
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    Hi Rex,
    Those lid inserts look really good especially as you have hand cut the pieces with a knife. My first effort making this item was done using some thin veneers of contrasting colours. I was quite happy with the result
    but thought it would be easier using thicker veneer. The thicker assembly gives you the opportunity to parallel sand through a drum sander. The Knew Concepts fret saw looks like an ideal low cost alternative to a scroll saw.
    I shaded my lid with a couple of different brown colouring pencils before applying the finishing coats.
    Hot sand shading looks good but it is a skill I have never tried. Using a pyrography pen using a flat bladed nib at low temperature also works well.
    And my head I'd be a scratchin'
    While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
    If I only had a brain.

  5. #19
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    Very effective lid Ruddy - it really does look like the lines taper across the length of the wave as double.d said.

    Getting an idea for an end-grain cutting board here - might even happen one day once I get an inverse set of cutters to match my curved shaper blades
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  6. #20
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    Hi Vern,
    The end grain cutting board is already on the To Do list but at the moment it is probably number 65 on the list!
    And my head I'd be a scratchin'
    While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
    If I only had a brain.

  7. #21
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    I think I'm pointing out the obvious here Gents. The reason it looks like the lines taper across the length of the wave is because they do taper across the length of the wave. Print off the diagram and measure it, or even measure it on the screen and you will see there's quite a pronounced taper.

    Rex

  8. #22
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    As I mentioned earlier, making a lid pattern this way you finish up with two lid patterns.
    This is the second box made using the design and in this instance I varied the depth to allow the leg features to be cut. This box was made with internal splines on the mitred corners.
    wb#2.JPGwb#1.JPGwb#3.JPG
    And my head I'd be a scratchin'
    While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
    If I only had a brain.

  9. #23
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    Very nice Ruddy (again). The paper lining in the lid, I assume it is paper, is quite unusual and very effective - a striking contrast to the rest of the box.

    Also unusual is the false lift on the front and my guess is that the magnets are so strong that you need to hold the box down when you lift the lid.

    Rex

  10. #24
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    Well I finally got around to building a box with the wave lid. This time I cut the pieces with my coping saw (not the right tool for the job) which showed me how far from being skilled I actually am. I used veneers about 2 mm thick and hand fitted them individually using sanding blocks - a lot of work but it's hard to stop this kind of project once you get started. Ultimately the finished product doesn't look too bad although I'd rate it as a workmanlike rather than an outstanding job.

    IMG_3628.jpg IMG_3641.jpg IMG_3634.jpg IMG_3635.jpg

    Visually, Ruddy's design works very well and the 3D effect is quite striking, especially when viewed from the front, as in the first two photos. As seen in the third photo I have yet to find a suitable lining for the inside of the lid, this shot showing the wooden hinge I used. The last shot shows the hinge from the back and this photo does my head in. If I study it for a while it looks like the lid is inverted and leaning towards me - altogether too much visual conflict.

    The box is made from Matai with the lid veneers being Totara and Kahikatea (kiwis will know what I'm talking about) and it measures 210 x 130 x 56 mm, finish is Danish oil. I didn't try to add any shading but I should have learn't from my earlier experiments and just waxed the top as the oil showed up every little defect and highlighted the grain, slightly to the detriment of the 3D appearance. A woodworker friend suggested I should have used wood with a curve in the grain to match the curve of the wave - there's a challenge for someone!

    Thanks for the idea Ruddy, after making this I have certainly gained a lot of respect for your skills.

    Rex

  11. #25
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    Its a great optical illusion.

    I wonder how some of these static images would go (click to open up):

    c22389208a8ace15b5dbadac23941197--moving-optical-illusions-circles.jpg maxresdefault.jpg optical-illusions-2.jpg

  12. #26
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    DavidG - Thanks for that, changes made. Is there some way to remove the errant post completely?

    WoodPixel - That way madness lies, especially the first one - although the second one is strangely appealing!

    Rex

  13. #27
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    Hi Rex,
    Congratulations on the wave box. I found that some subtle shading on the light coloured pieces really enhances the 3D effect. As someone mentioned above, some controlled hot sand shading on the light coloured wood would enhance the illusion.
    If you look at some of my earlier posts you will see that I am a big fan of wooden hinges and your hinges are so well done.I appreciate the work you have put in to achieve that look where the wooden hinges become an integral feature of the design.Nice work indeed.
    And my head I'd be a scratchin'
    While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
    If I only had a brain.

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Hi Rex, Ive an Excalibur 21" which is fun to use, but I really don't think you need one. Try using a fretsaw, such as the Knew Concepts (if you want to get fancy!).

    Have to admit, I have the KC and its great. It is used all the time with a simple cutting board.

    Very cheap and results can be pretty amazing. See Patrice Lejeune and Patrick Edwards for a demo on amazing handsaw skills (well, he uses a thing called a Chevallier too). They have a range of boxes that defy belief.

    One can do a great deal with the very most humble tools.
    WoodPixel I have taken a class with Patrick Edwards and you are right he does some amazing work. In his class we used a Chevalet and I also built one for my shop at home as well. Using a Chevalet is totaly different and easier to use than using a hand saw as the Chevalet has a fixed articulating arm that gives you much more control than a hand saw. But you are right with some practice you can use a hand saw with positive results

  15. #29
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    I admire their work. They are on my facebook feed for the very limited posts they do and I often check their sites. I've learned a great deal from careful observation of the image and rereading text 20 times

  16. #30
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    Finally found that round tuit! Unfortunately it didn't work as far as the illusion goes at all Don't know if it is the growth rings or the lack of tapers from one side to the other or both but it just looks flat from any angle. Ah well , it was worth a try.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

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