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Thread: Another box joint jig.
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15th June 2016, 08:13 AM #1Woodworking mechanic
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Another box joint jig.
Last month Wood magazine (online version) had a reference on their front page to a box joint jig for the router inside. When I followed the link it went to a box joint jig for a saw table and dado blade ( which I don't have).
I emailed them re this predicament and they kindly sent me the plans, free of charge, for one they had in their library. It's from the Dec/Jan 2011/2012 edition.
image.jpg
Quite simple construction. Hope to build it in the holidays.
Instructions on its use are detailed with pictures so should be quite easy to use. It's also adjustable to alter the fit of the joints.Last edited by Lappa; 15th June 2016 at 08:16 AM. Reason: Spelling
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17th June 2016, 11:00 PM #2Template Tom
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https://youtu.be/IxWqq8eWZAk
This is my jig for cutting finger joints constructing a 'MINI' Super Jig also used to rout dovetails with a change of templates and cutterSlide18.JPGDovetail Joints 2.jpgLearn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides
Log on to You Tube for a collection of videos 'Routing with Tom O'Donnell'
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21st June 2016, 01:35 PM #3
Look forward to seeing the finished item.
Dallas
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6th July 2016, 07:14 PM #4Woodworking mechanic
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Box joint jig bulid
Had some time over the last week to put the jig together. Most was made from ply and timber I had lying around so cost was minimal - only cost was two star wheels and a length of mini track.
The parts are as follows:
Base plate - which is clamped to the router table;
baseplate2.jpg baseplate1.jpg
Sliding table with 1/4" bolts and start knobs
slider.jpg
Slider mounted on base plate
slider on baseplate.jpg
The next item is the template. Your have to make one for each size of box joint router. It has a track in the back which attaches it to the slider.
quarter inchtemplate.jpg
Before being assembled it look like this.
baseplate slidet and template.jpg
There is a process to manufacture each template which I will post later if anyone is interested.
To setup for cuts, you need to set the projecting timber "finger" the correct distance from the router bit and the method is similar to the Rockler Box Joint jig where you place a spacer between the "finger" and the router bit - the spacer, finger and bit all the same width - in the case below 1/4"
initial setup.jpg
Once this is done, you are ready to cut the joints
setupready for first cut.jpg 1st cut first cut.jpg 2nd cut 2nd cut.jpg 3 finished cutsfinished cuts.jpg
To cut the adjoining side, you place the spacer between the "finger" and piece being cut to place the slot at the end.
setup 2nd side.jpg
The main problem is getting the "finger" to the exact size as the router bit and it does need to be exact - not too tight or loose. You can adjust the fit of the joints by loosening the star knobs and sliding the template; left - to loosen and right to tighten.
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6th July 2016, 09:21 PM #5
That does look like a nice and simple jig. I take it that the fit between the slider and base plate is critical as there is not a lot to guide it.
A guide on how you make the templates would be good.Dallas
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17th December 2016, 08:18 PM #6
Any chance of an update on your template manufacture?
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17th December 2016, 08:54 PM #7Woodworking mechanic
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I actually built a different unit but I still have that one so I can do a template build.
Shed's a mess at the moment due to extraction stystem install. I'll certainly post something in the next couple of weeks
Cheers
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1st January 2017, 04:19 PM #8Woodworking mechanic
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Making a template
Treecycle requested that I show how the individual box joint templates are made. The one I'm making here is a 3/8" that will use a 3/8" spiral upcut bit.
Each of my template bases is 290 X 100mm - made to suit the jig.
Step 1. Cut the template base plate to size and rout a T slot in the back or rout and fit a aluminium T slot. Slots suit the bolts in the jig base.
IMG_0349.jpg IMG_0351.jpg IMG_0350.jpg IMG_0352.jpg IMG_0353.jpg
Step 2. Fit the router bit and raise to 3/8", fit the template to the jig, align the template so it is level with the jig vertical sides and rout the first slot. Looking from the front, the LH vertical side of the template must be level with the LH vertical side of the jig for Step 4.
NB. I have a selection of key steel in all different imperial and metric sizes that I use when setting exact depths, protrusions etc. so I uses a 3/8" key steel for this job.
IMG_0354.jpg IMG_0355.jpg IMG_0356.jpg
Step 3. Make the wooden 3/8" pins. Once again I used the key steel to set the saw blade. I cut one length, checked it for size, then cut it in two as you need two pieces for the next task.
IMG_0357.jpg IMG_0358.jpg IMG_0359.jpg
Step 4. Fasten a piece of scrap timber to it touches the template on the LH side, looking from the front. This is critical to get the spacing correct.
IMG_0360.jpg
Step 5. Undo the two knurled knobs that hold the template in place and slide the template to the Right, insert the two timber pins side by side and slide the template back so the two pins are held snugly in place and tighten the knobs. Once again, this step is critical for correct spacing. Remove the pins, the scrap timber and rout the second slot.
IMG_0361.jpg IMG_0364.jpg
Step 6. Take one of the wooden pins and glue it into the second slot that you routed, and cut it flush with the rear of the template after the glue dries.
IMG_0362.jpg IMG_0363.jpg
The 3/8" template is now complete.
IMG_0366.jpg
The actual start to finish time per template is about 10 to 15 minutes
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1st January 2017, 10:37 PM #9
Thanks for that extra info Peter. I think I have enough detail now to be able to make and tune one.
Is your base plate about 230mm wide and the ply you used 18mm?
I have made a drawing using these dimensions, but easy enough to alter if this is not the case. I have added a runner to fit in my tee track in place of the cleat at the front of the table, but that is just personal preference.
Finger joint jig.JPG
Appreciate the time you have taken to show how to make and dial in the templates.Dallas
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2nd January 2017, 11:22 AM #10Woodworking mechanic
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The jig was made from US specs so it's imperial but that doesn't really matter. Base is 10" or 254 wide and length is made to suit my router table. Yes, it's 18mm ply. I like the idea of the runner - no chance of the jig skewing.
Its no trouble to post the Steps. People on this forum have always been more than helpful so it's good to be able to return the favour.
I must spend some time with Sketch-up. I get it free as it's on my work computer and I also get free training courses but I haven't got round to them yet
Peter
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2nd January 2017, 09:49 PM #11
I have adjusted the base plate width and now just need to find some time to have a go at one.
I actually used another drawing package, not SU. The one I use is more related to engineering and I find it easier to use.Dallas
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