Thread: Designing my own mortise Jig...

Hi Ryobi model no ert2100vk i think it was about $140,00 from memory from bunnings

Cheers Jerry

Originally Posted by Ben from Vic.

How do you start your mortices, Tom and Rocker (and anyone else), do you have spiral router bits that you can drill in with($$), or do you pre-drill a hole for the router bit, or do you have another way?

Ben.

Ben,

Until I got a Domino, I used solid carbide spiral upcut bits for morticing. Carbatec sells a 3-piece set (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") for $129. But you could make do with just 1/4" and a 5/16" ones for a total of $89.

Rocker

Originally Posted by Ben from Vic.

How do you start your mortices, Tom and Rocker (and anyone else), do you have spiral router bits that you can drill in with($$), or do you pre-drill a hole for the router bit, or do you have another way?

Ben.

Ben
For years I have used a standard straight cutter and when I began with the cutter first touching the material I ran it forward and pushed down a little till I reached the other end then repeated the process on the way back then on to the next cut then again until I reached the final depth. The two final cuts were made at both ends simple plunging to the depth this was carried out after removing ant sawdust that had gathered in the jig/template
Hope this helps. Now I use an end cutting bit if I can get one the size of the mortice required

Tom

Originally Posted by Template Tom

A lot of effort has gone into designing the jig.
I have one question to ask, Why is that so many router users seem to think that all the routing processes are to be done with the router in the router table, there is a simplier jig that can be made, when using the router in the plunge mode with the aid of the template guides.

Tom

Thanks Tom... very timely post. I am about to do multiple m&t joints in the bead head and foot of the bed I am making. What I was thinking about is similar to yours. Now I know I am on the right track and I will kindly model mine after yours.

Just a question, what is the best way to set it up for indexing? (7 mortices, each indexed by 140mm)

Regards,
Chipman

Originally Posted by Chipman

Thanks Tom... very timely post. I am about to do multiple m&t joints in the bead head and foot of the bed I am making. What I was thinking about is similar to yours. Now I know I am on the right track and I will kindly model mine after yours.

Just a question, what is the best way to set it up for indexing? (7 mortices, each indexed by 140mm)

Regards,
Chipman

Once you have set out in place where the mortices are to be cut. add to the jig a spacer each time to locate the position before clamping the jig to the material, then remove it ready to rout the mortice,
Tom

Many thanks,

Graham (aka chipman)

Originally Posted by Template Tom

Once you have set out in place where the mortices are to be cut. add to the jig a spacer each time to locate the position before clamping the jig to the material, then remove it ready to rout the mortice,
Tom

Sorry Tom, I see Chipman has under stood, but could you explain a little further how the spacer works?
Are we talking about spacing out the mortises (140) from each other?

Originally Posted by Ben from Vic.

Sorry Tom, I see Chipman has under stood, but could you explain a little further how the spacer works?
Are we talking about spacing out the mortises (140) from each other?

Ben

I am talking about the size of the mortice to be cut. Normally they are marked out first then the 'spacer' is inserted the size will be the length of the cut-out for the mortice and the small piece at the end is equal to the 'Off-set' You will have to work out the template guide and cutter that will be used to determine its size.
As an example 40mm template guide and a 10mm cutter would give an off-set of 15mm therefore the little piece would be 15mm and line up with the mortice marked out on the leg.

Tom

Ah, so you drop the spacer in and slide the template up the timber untill the short edge of the spacer lines up with the marked edge of the mortice.

So the spacer is to aid lining up the jig.

Originally Posted by Ben from Vic.

Ah, so you drop the spacer in and slide the template up the timber untill the short edge of the spacer lines up with the marked edge of the mortice.

So the spacer is to aid lining up the jig.

Ben

You have got it right in one

Tom

Originally Posted by Rocker

Ben,

Until I got a Domino, I used solid carbide spiral upcut bits for morticing. Carbatec sells a 3-piece set (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") for $129. But you could make do with just 1/4" and a 5/16" ones for a total of $89.

Rocker

David, could you tell me why you chose these sizes?
Is it because they work on 19 and 25mm respectively?

Ben.

Ben,

I think 1/4" and 5/16" mortices are the most commonly used sizes for mortices in 3/4" and 1" stock, using the '1/3 of the thickness' rule of thumb. And it is feasible to cut wider mortices easily with a 5/16" bit, by moving the fence on a morticing jig.

But ideally you would get 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", and 1/2" spiral bits to cover all the common sizes of mortices.

Rocker

Rocker,

Regarding the jig you've mentioned earlier and posted the link to the plans for; will it cut mortises into 4" thick stock?
I'll be making double mortise & tenons ideally so really it would only be working 20mm away from the fence at the most.

Missionaryman,

It should be quite feasible to use my jig to cut mortices in 4" thick stock; you could even cut through mortices in it, if you bought the 3/8" spiral upcut carbide bit sold by McJing, which has a 2" cutting depth.

Rocker