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  1. #31
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    Jan 2006
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    sydney
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    Rocker - I have built your jig and it's fantastic, I didn't have the time to make the micro adjustment or glue in some tape measures but I will definately have to at least fit the tape measures in very soon.

    Here's the jig:




    and here is my first set of M&T joints, it was a test run on scrap and good thing too because I set the tenons too close together:


    I adjusted this on the actual job (the reason for the error is that I was going to make 3/8" slots but changed to 1/2" at the last minute and didn't adjust the fences):

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
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    3,336

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    Missionaryman,

    Now that you have done the harder part of making my jig, I think you will find it well worthwhile to add the threaded-rod micro-adjustment and the measuring tapes for the stops, so as to turn it into a precision jig. As I said in a previous post, the dial gauge is not essential; you can achieve the same precision by measuring the distance between the fence block and the static block with a caliper. It would also pay you to glue a hardwood edging to the fence, since the MDF fence might become worn with use.

    Rocker

  4. #33
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    Jan 2006
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    sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocker View Post
    Missionaryman,

    Now that you have done the harder part of making my jig, I think you will find it well worthwhile to add the threaded-rod micro-adjustment and the measuring tapes for the stops, so as to turn it into a precision jig. As I said in a previous post, the dial gauge is not essential; you can achieve the same precision by measuring the distance between the fence block and the static block with a caliper. It would also pay you to glue a hardwood edging to the fence, since the MDF fence might become worn with use.

    Rocker
    yes you're right I did have the intention of putting some hardwood edging on the fence which I shall do, I have to have a go at the micro adjustment but I cant tap that thread into the hardwood as I dont have any of the necessary gear, I'll see if there's another way I can do it.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
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    3,336

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    If you don't have a drill press or tap for tapping the thread in the hardwood, you can probably get away with using a tee-nut, epoxied in place, instead.

    Rocker

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    poland
    Age
    78
    Posts
    761

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    I made a mortise jig almost as you described on the drawings and it works like a charm...

    You can see the "how-to" here
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/rolling-mortise-jig-router-table-52213

    And some actual work, here
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/rolling-mortise-jig-test-day-52979

    Regards
    niki

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
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    That's a great jig Niki - far better thought out & executed than mine was and of course the results are very good.
    I saw a video somewhere on the net where for about $100 the guy attached a bosch cordless 10.8v screwdriver with some cogs he picked up from the scrapyard and made the lift motorised. I cant find it anywhere now though. you're basically 3/4 of the way there according to his design

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    poland
    Age
    78
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by missionaryman View Post
    I saw a video somewhere on the net where for about $100 the guy attached a bosch cordless 10.8v screwdriver with some cogs he picked up from the scrapyard and made the lift motorised. I cant find it anywhere now though. you're basically 3/4 of the way there according to his design
    Oh yes, John Nixon..... you'll be surprised but he was a member here....

    I remember that he was looking for a motor...

    This guy is professional and too Hi-Tech for me...I'm a Lo-Tech guy...

    Here is one of his posts with pics of his router lift..
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/motorized-router-lift-25783

    Regards
    niki

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