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  1. #1
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    Default Small leg for a Three legged table

    A simple Project to produce a leg from 300mm x 90mm. I have been investigating a variety of ways of producing a number methods that can be used to Produce them with Greater safety awareness. I would be interested on the method used by other members of the forum

    TomWT 26.JPGMortice and Tenon isometric b.JPG
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  3. #2
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    Hi Tom,
    I have done exactly this design many times before the only difference being dovetailed tenon at first I made template's for them then sanded to finish, then I went back to old method and cut them out on bandsaw and then use spoke shave to finish the simplest by far to achieve good result every time.
    Regards Rod.
    Rod Gilbert.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert View Post
    Hi Tom,
    I have done exactly this design many times before the only difference being dovetailed tenon at first I made template's for them then sanded to finish, then I went back to old method and cut them out on bandsaw and then use spoke shave to finish the simplest by far to achieve good result every time.
    Regards Rod.
    Thanks Rod for your reply The method you submitted was not included on my list but it was one I would have used some 50-60 years ago also a method I would have taught many students when I was employed as a Manual arts teacher In those days we were not introduced to the use of the router. I must confess the router has changed what I am now capable of achieving. In my apprenticeship days the "Spindle Moulder" was the machine used for doing most of the edge treatment that we carry out today with the router in the Table mode.
    The table mode may be the most used method used to shape the legs above with Trimming cutter with the bearing on the bottom or with the bearing on the top. That was the first two methods I have listed in my research on the various method that can be used. The 3rd method I have listed is using the table mode with the aid of a template guide which required the template to be reduced depending on the guide/cutter combination. The fourth method I listed was to use the router in the plunge mode with the aid of the same combination. Though I have listed the four methods I DO NOT recommend that they are used as there are safer methods of completing the project and they will all be exactly the same shape and size
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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Template Tom View Post
    A simple Project to produce a leg from 300mm x 90mm. I have been investigating a variety of ways of producing a number methods that can be used to Produce them with Greater safety awareness. I would be interested on the method used by other members of the forum

    TomWT 26.JPGMortice and Tenon isometric b.JPG
    Publication1.jpg
    Learn new Routing skills with the use of the template guides

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  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Template Tom View Post
    A simple Project to produce a leg from 300mm x 90mm. I have been investigating a variety of ways of producing a number methods that can be used to Produce them with Greater safety awareness. I would be interested on the method used by other members of the forum

    TomWT 26.JPGMortice and Tenon isometric b.JPG
    for the forum.pdf

    I am certain that at least two from the four methods submitted would be used by a great number of members. Not sure if many would use the template guide in the table mode and the final method using the plunge mode. Not that I am recommending that any of the four methods should be used
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  7. #6
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    So which method would you recommend using?

    If i had only a few to make, i wouldn't waste much time screwing around with fancy jigs, I would just make a tracing template from 3mm MDF and use that to mark the piece on my timber stock, close rough cut on bandsaw and sand to finish on an edge sander.

    If i had heaps to do, a heavy duty CNC router is by far the best approach. But using common equipment found in many shops I would use a spindle moulder/router table (its basically the same thing for this purpose). Rough cut the blanks on the bandsaw within about 2mm of the line, its not that critical. Make two jigs, one for the top edge, and one for the bottom edge. The timber seats hard down onto the jig, and rests against some screws which can be screwed in or out to make fine adjustments in size to account for cutter diameter reducing with sharpening while the bearing remains the same diameter. Its safe, its easy, its accurate.
    20150417_150428.jpg

  8. #7
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    Kuffy
    The method I would be using is to produce a template where I could then select a template guide and cutter combination to produce any number of the same project exactly the same size. Similar to what you suggest making a Jig {Template shape} for both edges. The material is held secure and the router is used in the Plunge mode. The pic above is a common method of holding the material secure which would require two templates to be produced. Just as a matter of interest I have produce the handles of the tray depicted in the photograph Producing both ends at the same time including inserting the slot for the base as well as routing the trenches to take the sides of the tray. well worth the effort to produce the Jig and template.
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  9. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Template Tom View Post
    The 3rd method I have listed is using the table mode with the aid of a template guide which required the template to be reduced depending on the guide/cutter combination. The fourth method I listed was to use the router in the plunge mode with the aid of the same combination. Though I have listed the four methods I DO NOT recommend that they are used as there are safer methods of completing the project and they will all be exactly the same shape and size

    Isn't the fourth method, which you DO NOT recommend, the one you are suggesting to use? I agree the fourth method for such a shape is a horrible idea given the slenderness of the shape down near the foot. It will make the router tippy, or make you add packers to help stabilise the router.

    Or, are you making two templates, one for the top edge, and one for the bottom edge which includes locating pins to seat the half formed shape into?

  10. #9
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    [QUOTE=Kuffy;1928779]Isn't the fourth method, which you DO NOT recommend, the one you are suggesting to use? I agree the fourth method for such a shape is a horrible idea given the slenderness of the shape down near the foot. It will make the router tippy, or make you add packers to help stabilise the router.

    Or, are you making two templates, one for the top edge, and one for the bottom edge which includes locating pins to seat the half formed shape into?
    /QUOTE]
    Isn't the fourth method, which you DO NOT recommend, the one you are suggesting to use? Definitely not

    I would be making only one template with the two shapes cut out, not sure what you mean by including locating pins you seat the half formed? shapes into
    Kuffy do you not use template guides? if not you are missing out on what can be produced with the router not only the simple shape of the legs mentioned
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  11. #10
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    So i watched your video about making dining table chair legs. I thought you were routing the complete depth, not leaving some behind for trimming later, this is where my confusion began. You are using a plunge router in much the same way as a CNC router, something I did for years. I personally only use template guides for internal pocketing, such as a mortise. Most of the time I will freehand it (not mortises). After seeing your method, I would still choose my method. There is alot to be gained from rough cutting the shape on the bandsaw and then cleaning up afterwards. you can manipulate the tracing template to dodge defects, and of course a bandsaw kerf is much less than a router kerf. it seems your jig is heavily dependent on the board width being exact and parallel.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuffy View Post
    So i watched your video about making dining table chair legs. I thought you were routing the complete depth, not leaving some behind for trimming later, this is where my confusion began. You are using a plunge router in much the same way as a CNC router, something I did for years. I personally only use template guides for internal pocketing, such as a mortise. Most of the time I will freehand it (not mortises). After seeing your method, I would still choose my method. There is alot to be gained from rough cutting the shape on the bandsaw and then cleaning up afterwards. you can manipulate the tracing template to dodge defects, and of course a bandsaw kerf is much less than a router kerf. it seems your jig is heavily dependent on the board width being exact and parallel

    The Table leg was a good example of how the method should be done taking it in stages leaving a little to be trimmed. Also leaving a smoother edge with less sanding to be done to achieve the final surface and each leg is produced exactly the same size. Working with the CNC router in business is certainly the way to go. I am teaching members of the Gosnells Men's shed how to use a router {no CNC there} This intro is only the beginning to what can be achieved with the router with the aid of template guides, projects that can not be produced in the table mode IMHO. There are other videos I have submitted that will demonstrate the use of the guides. Maybe after trying my method you might change your mind you will require the use of at least 4 different guides 40mm 30mm 20mm 16mm just as a start
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  13. #12
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    Default Follow up

    Small Table.JPG

    Legs inserted to a Hexagonal column Just as a matter of interest what joint is used
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  14. #13
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    Hi Tom,
    When I did these on a standard lamp with a round table top, I used a sliding dovetail joint. I used to shape them with the router and templates but the grain can change direction in the course of the sweep causing the router bit to tear out the grain on the cut, this is why I went back to doing them with the spoke shave. DSCF0169.JPGDSCF0170.JPGDSCF0171.JPG
    Regards Rod.
    Rod Gilbert.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert View Post
    Hi Tom,
    When I did these on a standard lamp with a round table top, I used a sliding dovetail joint. I used to shape them with the router and templates but the grain can change direction in the course of the sweep causing the router bit to tear out the grain on the cut, this is why I went back to doing them with the spoke shave. DSCF0169.JPGDSCF0170.JPGDSCF0171.JPG
    Regards Rod.
    Rod
    Exactly the joint I used as it is a bit difficult to use a clamp with say a dowel or tenon joint.

    With reference to shaping the legs would you not consider using the template method where the router can be changed in direction to eliminate the breakout going with grain routing in stages.
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  16. #15
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    for the forum 2.JPGPublication1.jpgMortice and Tenon isometric b.JPG

    Recently I was approached by a member of our local Mens shed He required assistance on shaping a Bracket for a shelf support he made it quite clear to me that he had very little woodworking skills. We sat down to discus what he wanted to do which was simply a couple of shelves in his lounge room.

    We then went into the shed and I introduced him to the router the first time he had ever held such a tool. I introduced the template and the Jig holder to hold the material secure and within a matter of minutes he produced the leg shape with the aid of the template a template that had been used by other members of the shed over the year to produce the same shape with greater safety awareness. Again members who had never used a router before I demonstrated how it can be used. Some had suggested that the shape could be produced on the table mode, {which I agreed} then I made it quite clear that the method I was about to show them was better. To this day the group have not used the table mode for any of their projects. Or Routing processes. In fact some of the projects could not be achieved in the table mode
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