Thread: I made this mortising jig on the weekend

Tccp123,
I have purchased the following bits to use with my version of Ryan's design

HRC60 Solid Carbide 75mm 100mm END Mills 2 Flute Long END Mills 4 6 8 10 12mm | eBay
Extra Long HSS END MILL Cutter 4 Flute Milling CUT BIT Size 5 6 8 10 12 14 16 MM | eBay

BUT I did need to get a half inch to 6mm collet adapter see below but order type CH03

2pcs High Precision Adapter collet shank CNC router tool Adapters holder 6mm change to 4mm/ 6 3.175/ 12.7 6/ 12.7 6.35 mm 4 size-in Tool Holder from Industry & Business on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Regards

Mike

Thanks Mike, that's valuable information. Although I'd love to be using an upcut bit I'm very happy with the results I'm getting from my cheap two flute straight bit. I can only imagine your results wiil be even more impressive! Good luck with your build, I thoroughly recommend the design.

Hi, I've made some small improvements:

DSC_1527 (Large).jpg

I've added these toggle clamps to allow me to use stop blocks at each end

DSC_1526 (Large).jpg

I'm using these floating tenons as stop blocks to do this:

DSC_1523 (Large).jpg

I bought these tiny toggle clamps from eBay for $1 each. The rubber is a bit dodgy but otherwise they work just like the expensive ones.

Next step is to replace the ugly dust collection with this:

DSC_1525 (Large).jpg

It's the tube my T-track kit came in. Now I'll be able to watch the dust disappear even further up the tube . How sexy is that??

The other thing I added was this:

DSC_1524 (Large).jpg

It's the perspex strip just behind the dust collection. I added it because I realised it wouldn't interfere with the operation of the sliding mechanism (and I should add neither does the dust collection system, there is still full travel) and it eliminates 'almost' all of that last 5% not collected by the original design. I'm loathe to say 100% but it's pretty bloody close!!

I might add that I also use those tiny toggles on my router table (which is on castors). I run it up to the table saw (same height) and secure it with these:

DSC_1528 (Large).jpg

Rock solid.

One last thing... I haven't actually put up any video of the jig in use, if anyone is interested in seeing that just PM me and I'll make one.

Cheers,
Tony

Originally Posted by Tccp123

One last thing... I haven't actually put up any video of the jig in use, if anyone is interested in seeing that just PM me and I'll make one.

Yes please, a video of it in action has to happen. Did you make this mortising jig for a particular upcoming project?

Sadly the jig IS the project. Pathetic isn't it?

But now that I've made it I can see all sorts of possibilities. I have a large stockpile of flooring (brushbox) that's just itching to be made into a desk.

for the forum.jpg

Here is my latest answer to produce mortice and tenons

Yes I can see that's a solution that would work. But before you pass judgement about which is the better method wait till you see my next video where I'll actually use the jig to construct a joint. I think you'll be impressed with how quick, accurate and foolproof it is. Promise one by the end of this (long here in Queensland) weekend.

Cheers,
Tony

Look forward to seeing the video. I was not judging you choice of JIG This Jig was mini version of my Super Jig to give a quick demonstration on an alternative method to your Jig as I was using Template guides to produce a tenon with the edges rounded over in just ten seconds and the mortice also in ten seconds.

Originally Posted by Template Tom

Look forward to seeing the video. I was not judging you choice of JIG This Jig was mini version of my Super Jig to give a quick demonstration on an alternative method to your Jig as I was using Template guides to produce a tenon with the edges rounded over in just ten seconds and the mortice also in ten seconds.

The problem I see with the template method is that you are limited to one size mortise. You would have to cut/build multiple templates to suit various size mortises. With my jig I can cut any size mortise simply by adjusting the stops, top plate and changing the bit size. I would imagine that Tony's also has that advantage. As for cutting tenons, I use loose tenons - I can machine up lengths of the required size in minutes.

Peter

Originally Posted by Lappa

The problem I see with the template method is that you are limited to one size mortise. You would have to cut/build multiple templates to suit various size mortises. With my jig I can cut any size mortise simply by adjusting the stops, top plate and changing the bit size. I would imagine that Tony's also has that advantage. As for cutting tenons, I use loose tenons - I can machine up lengths of the required size in minutes.

Peter

Peter
As I quoted this was a mini version of my SUPER JIG designed to produce a specific tenon and mortice. My Super jig has been designed to produce a variety of tenons in any thickness and length you might require, twin tenons, triple tenons, quadruple tenons, tenons at an angle, By inserting a additional fixture I can produce tenons on a mitre. Many years ago I did use the 'floating/loose tenons like you are using but soon changed the method of construction when I began to see with the change to using the Template guides I was able to produce a greater number of joints all with the same jig. Just as a matter of interest Finger Joints and Dovetails can also be produced. This does require a firm understanding how Template Guides will increase the versatility of the router and enable a greater number of projects to be produced WITH GREATER SAFETY AWARENESS

Template Tom, I know you are just pushing your agenda of using router guides for EVERYTHING with regards to routers, and you have no shame in hijacking a thread to push your agenda. But in the interest of possibly learning something, ill give you the satisfaction that you so greatly desire and "i'll bite".

How can your method of having to physically hold the dangerous power tool be considered "with greater safety awareness" when you directly compare it side by side to Tccp123's jig?

Here's how I see it.
- Tccp123's method has the workpiece securely mounted to the jig, and I am assuming the jig is securely clamped to the workbench just because it would make things a little bit easier in operation.
- Tccp123's method has the router securely mounted to the jig, which not only disconnects the operator from the dangerous tool, but also adds rigidity to the tool which will increase cut quality and accuracy.
- Tccp123's method has incorporated dust control measures, and going from my own experience of removing the swarf from inside mortises, I believe his answer to dust control will be quite effective.

-Template Tom's method involves holding the power tool in his own hands. The power tool has its power supplied by an electrical lead. Leads often end up on the ground as a tripping hazard. Many routers do not have safety catches preventing the accidental turning on of the router. Many I have used simply have a small piece of plastic infront of a simple toggle on/off switch, and if you pick the router up by the handles, it was incredibly easy to flick the switch as you grabbed the handles. Add the accidental turning on plus tripping hazard. Equates to a possible event of having the router powered up and flying through the air and sticking into your leg.
-As strong as we all think or hope we are, our upper body's do not have the rigidity that a mechanical fixing can provide. I used industrial CNC routers for years, and I wish I could replicate the cut quality from a CNC using a hand-held router. But unless I become the incredible hulk, there is buckly's chance.

Have just completed another video showing the jig in action. Yes I actually put my money where my mouth is and cut a couple of mortises...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vK7r...ature=youtu.be

Let me know what you think...

Very impressive. The dust collection works a treat as well.
Your efforts should result in an increased interest in loose tenon joinery. Now back to re-jigging my jig.

Cheers,
David

Thanks Tony.

I had minor concerns about how rigid the drawer runners would be. But From listening to the sound whilst cutting, I can hear that it is cutting sweetly without chatter or excessive vibration.

Assuming I don't get offered a decent industrial round end slot mortiser at a super cheap price (free), I have just made plans to build one of those jigs when things quieten down around here.