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  1. #1
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    Default Problems producing half blind dovetails - HELP

    I have the following jig and before anyone says why did you buy one of them - purely because I thought it would do the job.

    Well it does and it doesn't not sure if I have set it up correctly but a little work has to be done to get the joints to fit. Is this due to the depth I am setting the bit too am using a 12mm bit and setting it for an 11mm depth cut in 19 mm thick pine stock.

    I am also finding the bit supplied is the weak point as firstly the bearing broke after about 6 - 8 joints being cut and the collar that holds the bearing in place works loose and the allen key grub screw will not tighten sufficiently and works loose. Is there a better bit available for this jig?

    I wish to produce half blind dovetail joints on my DVD/CD Cabinets that I am making so that when the Cabinet is closed no joints are visible. Can anyone give me some advice on the best way to tackle these joints given that on side is vey long the other the length of a DVD cover.

    I also have a Triton Router Table that was left to me by my Father who recently passed away (where I get my love of woodworking from) and was wondering if this Router Table could be used for making these types of joints and what jig and bit system would be the most suitable if it can be used for this purpose.

    Thanks to anyone who can help me in my quest.

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  3. #2
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    I made a lot of half blind dovetails with a jig very much like yours. They will do the job.

    Generally, if the joint is too tight, decrease the depth of cut. If the joint is loose, increase the depth of cut. Try it out on some scrap to get the fit right - just make sure the scrap is the same thickness as the workpiece.

    Mine used standard dovetail bits with a template guide for the router, so I can't help with the bits.

    Good luck.

    Tex

  4. #3
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    Thanks Tex gives me hope to produce good quality joints in coming weeks. Just a quick question regards the template guide did this come with the jig or did you purchase it seperately. My finger slots are 13 mm wide which I think equates to
    17/32 " imperial. Would like to get the template for my Makita Plunge Router as I think this would be better than the bits with the bearing guide others may disagree.

    Still trying to perfect the joints in pine stock before my next cabinet in a hardwood.

  5. #4
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    Did a bit of reserch when I was having problems aswell most infomation I found out was that i was using the wrong router guide. It seams that if you have a 1/2 inch template you will need a 7/16 inch guide bush for the router with a 1/2 inch 14 degree 1/4" shank router bit
    Found a better quality manual on a American website that explained the setup of the dovetail jig

    John

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by colind321 View Post
    Just a quick question regards the template guide did this come with the jig or did you purchase it seperately.
    I got the guide separately. I had an old router and took me two or three tries to get the right adapter. With the Makita, it should be easier. Your instructions should say what size template guide you need. Mine was a Porter Cable Omnijig, which used a 5/8" guide. The guide fit in the slots pretty tight, so sounds like you would use a 13mm or 17/32" guide.

    poltac is right, if you've got the right bit and template guide they work well. If you don't ...

    Tex

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by colind321 View Post
    I also have a Triton Router Table that was left to me by my Father who recently passed away (where I get my love of woodworking from) and was wondering if this Router Table could be used for making these types of joints and what jig and bit system would be the most suitable if it can be used for this purpose.
    As far as I know, only the Gifkins jig (& clones) will work with a router table and, although it cuts through dovies very nicely, but I think it doesn't do half-blinds.

    (Doesn't mention 'em on Gifkin's site, anyway.)
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

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  8. #7
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    Colind321,

    Yes it will do blind dovetails but the setup is fiddley.

    The size of the template should be stamped on it somewhere. Looks like 1/2".

    Go to this website. This manual is a lot better.

    http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h0983_m.pdf
    Steve

    Live while you're alive and sleep when you're dead

  9. #8
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    Thanks, I was wondering about that.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

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  10. #9
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    could you please give address for guide

  11. #10
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    Brisand

    If you send me a PM (personal email) via this site will give you my address I assume you have a guide for my Makita that can be used on this jig? If you have that would be great.

    colind321

  12. #11
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    Steve

    Thanks for the referal to the website and manual having read it quickly greater detail than that given to me by the the Seller who was helpful as the manual that comes with the jig is useless. Again thanks will read in depth as I persue my next Cabinet.

    Regards

    Colin Downing

  13. #12
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    Colin can you post the email address for the manual.
    Brian

  14. #13
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    Steve
    The following is the website and takes straight to the Manual that you can then read and save on your PC.

    Go to this website. This manual is a lot better.

    http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/h0983_m.pdf


    Regards

    Colin
    Last edited by colind321; 16th Apr 2009 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Forgot names silly me

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by colind321 View Post
    I have the following jig and before anyone says why did you buy one of them - purely because I thought it would do the job.

    Well it does and it doesn't not sure if I have set it up correctly but a little work has to be done to get the joints to fit. Is this due to the depth I am setting the bit too am using a 12mm bit and setting it for an 11mm depth cut in 19 mm thick pine stock.

    I am also finding the bit supplied is the weak point as firstly the bearing broke after about 6 - 8 joints being cut and the collar that holds the bearing in place works loose and the allen key grub screw will not tighten sufficiently and works loose. Is there a better bit available for this jig?

    I wish to produce half blind dovetail joints on my DVD/CD Cabinets that I am making so that when the Cabinet is closed no joints are visible. Can anyone give me some advice on the best way to tackle these joints given that on side is vey long the other the length of a DVD cover.

    I also have a Triton Router Table that was left to me by my Father who recently passed away (where I get my love of woodworking from) and was wondering if this Router Table could be used for making these types of joints and what jig and bit system would be the most suitable if it can be used for this purpose.

    Thanks to anyone who can help me in my quest.
    I hope you found a solution. Yes I think it is a matter of having the right template. As you rout make sure you push gently from side to side which I'm sure you did unless it is a straight fit with no movement. that may give the extra room needed.

  16. #15
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    I looked at the photo and thats the same first jig I bought using a 3612b router. Yes I found I had tight joints using that router.

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