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  1. #1
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    Default Surfacer/Thicknesser

    This morning I was up early with my new son and was thinking of the best way to clean up some planks I recently ripped in half with the old circular saw. What followed was about 45 mins of piecing together this sled from scraps I had in the workshop.

    In the coming days I'll add bearings to the X and Y carriages to help make it easier to move about. I'll also be making various curved Y carriages to dish out the tops of seats, bowls, lazy suzan's etc. The best thing about the design is that it's very scalable, quickly, easily and cheaply.

    There's not much to say, I think the pictures will explain it all. Oh, the router lifts straight out of my table and drops straight into the Y carriage. No mucking about with different base plates or different routers etc.

    The sled and rails



    The stock before surfacing



    The stock mid surfacing. There are some tool marks that will sand out easy enough, but I'll get a larger bit for future efforts. Something around 1-1.5 inch should make light work of it.


    The finished stock


    The setup (with finished stock). I envisage clamping this to the top of my work bench to make it easier and more comfortable to use.


    Comparison stock. Before (on top) and after (below)

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  3. #2
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    Default

    For some reason I was thinking of making one of these. It looks good .
    Regards Ben

  4. #3
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    Default

    not only looks good, looks very professional

  5. #4
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    Default

    Good work. You might want to get the right router bit for the job. It will improve the performance significantly. My one gives me a perfect finish.

    801 Mortising & Planer Bits : CARBA-TEC



    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  6. #5
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    Default

    thanks for the comments folks. Tonight I'm adding the bearings to the X and Y carriages for smoother and easier movement. will post pics once completed. it'll be a busy night as I've got to make a few jigs including a circle cutting jig to do as small as 3mm Diameter discs and another one to surface some larger lazy suzan style bowls I'm working on.

    @wongo: thanks for the tip. I'd ordered some planer bits from ebay last night hoping that I'd get a nicer result. Its nice to see you've already done that and that I've made the right decision.

  7. #6
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    Another important point is to do small cuts rather than big cuts. Pic 5 suggests that you were cutting too much.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Another important point is to do small cuts rather than big cuts. Pic 5 suggests that you were cutting too much.
    I can certainly see how pic5 might suggest that and whilst it does suggest that, the material being removed was marginal with each pass. The DOC was fixed for the duration of the process however the router was taking approximately 1-2mm on the Y with each pass along the X.

  9. #8
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    Another great bit to add to your collection is the Dish Cutter

    With the radiused corners you get very blended overlapping.
    The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources.
    Albert Einstein

  10. #9
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    I have to disagree with you Tankstand. Sorry.

    I had the dish cutter, also a CMT bit so no problem with quaility, first but the result was very poor. It is why I changed to the planer Bits.

    The dish cutter seems to lift the router and glides over the wood rather than cut into the wood. It does not give a clean cut at all. Sorry if it does not make sense to you.

    It could be my lack of technique, but I find it less effective.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  11. #10
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    How about this bit. bowl trimmer (surface planer)
    Regards Ben

  12. #11
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    How well does this go on figured timber.
    Regards Ben

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bupton View Post
    How well does this go on figured timber.
    how figured? so long as the work piece is secured and the material being removed is minimal in each pass it shouldn't be a problem. it'll just take some time to do it.

  14. #13
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    Just thought that it would be better then a thicknesser on figured timber as it takes small cuts from the side and a thicknesser takes long cuts from the top.
    Regards Ben

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bupton View Post
    How about this bit. bowl trimmer (surface planer)
    I think 6 flutes are far too many. Unless you do the smallest cut or you are likely to burn the wood. Similar to ripping wood with crosscut blade. I would definitely stick with 2 flutes.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by newflavour View Post
    how figured? so long as the work piece is secured and the material being removed is minimal in each pass it shouldn't be a problem. it'll just take some time to do it.

    I agree. The cutting action is perpendicular wood grain. There should be 0 chance for a tear out.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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