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  1. #1
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    Mar 2008
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    Default Trimming protruding dovetail joint pins

    I usually have protruding pins and tails on my dovetail joints; they show up badly if they are recessed below the box sides.

    The usual way to trim these pins flat and level with the surface of the box sides is with a block plane or sanding on a large flat sheet of sandpaper glued to a flat surface. My experiences with block planes is that tearout occurs

    I found this alternative method using a trimmer router and jig. The trick is to make sure that the bottom of the router bit is dead level with the surface( or preferably a hairs width above it). Best to test it on a flat surface first. The other trick, which is where I came undone, is to make sure that the hand furthest from the router is ALWAYS holding the jig flat on the surface, otherwise the router will gouge in to the surface.

    Still needs a final sanding before applying finish to the box



    P1370378 (Large).jpg
    P1370388 (Large).jpg P1370383 (Large).jpg
    regards,

    Dengy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Maitland
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    Default

    Hi Dengue, I find that a better way is to use a battery operated router with trimming bit that has a bearing or even two bearings on it. That way no need for a jig and all one has to do is make sure to keep the router base flat on the surface.

    The battery operated router is slightly slower than a normal electric router so one gets more control over the job.

    Good luck

    Router

  4. #3
    Join Date
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    Default

    I normally use a belt sander, but why not just use a flush cut bit instead of a jig?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Seattle, Washington, USA
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    Default

    "What about a hand plane?" he said, glancing around nervously for incoming backhands.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Why do the work when the pixies in the power point will do it for you?

  7. #6
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    Default

    why not just use a flush cut bit instead of a jig?
    It is just that on each corner there are either pins or tails projecting, so there is no flat surface to put the trimmer base on for the flush cut bit to do its work
    regards,

    Dengy

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Maitland
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    66

    Default

    Just lay a bit of veneer, 3 ply or MDF on the top surface behind the raised pins, just enough to be a tad higher than the long pins and create a flat surface and then run the trimming bit over the now flat surface to trim the pins on the side wall. Once done, turn the box over to the next one and do the same, a lot easier than using a jig. Only need to do this 4 times.

    Good luck


    Router

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    SE Melb
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Maddux View Post
    "What about a hand plane?" he said, glancing around nervously for incoming backhands.
    Nah use a hand router. You ve made a few haven't you.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Maddux View Post
    "What about a hand plane?" he said, glancing around nervously for incoming backhands.
    agree

    it just needs to be a big heavy one with a very sharp blade
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Hi Dengy

    The best solution is that there is no waste to cut off!

    To do this one needs to mark well. Actually, this is an important requirement with fitting drawer fronts - you cannot plane away pins as the drawer will no longer fit. And you do not want to plane away a lot of tail thickness, as this makes for extra work. A smidgeon is OK.

    To mark exactly, try this technique with a Japanese cutting gauge or a wheel gauge ...



    Dropping the blade/wheel to the bench top enables an exact thickness to be made for transferring to the mating board.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    Dengy,

    It's a hard concept to appreciate but I think I get it. At first I thought just a flush trim bit would do, but thinking it through I realised that wasn't the solution. I think your jig is a winner.

    Will be interesting to see if TT can get a word in edgewise here for "the template guides"

    Tony

  13. #12
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    Nov 2012
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    Hi Dengue,

    I try to keep the protrusion to a minimum (as detailed above) and then I use a Sand Flee portable surface drum sander to finish the pins flush. I have the smaller 935 model Sand-Flee 935. i use a fine paper so that it is not too aggressive.

    David

  14. #13
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    Thanks Xanthoorhoeas, out of interest I watched the DVD on the link. How exhausting was that presenter/ salesman. He made our Aussie " but wait, there's more....." telesales guy sound like a slow talking country bumpkin
    regards,

    Dengy

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    lara
    Posts
    79

    Default

    A table saw with special aux mdf fence is the best for it. No chipouts at all. I've tried router, hand planes, japanese pull saws - nothing comes even close to the table saw.
    Very good video how to do that (watch it to the end):
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AddH8IgL7wY
    good luck

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