Thread: Advice needed on staining and finishing

Try and use a rag (they tend to streak less) and remember, the more times you stain it, the darker it gets (also mahogany). There's a good (cheap) trick for black stain - steel wool in a glass of vinegar turns black after a week and is very effective.

A so-called Japan Black finish (where elements of the grain show through) can be cool. In which case you japan black on top of black prooftint. But if you want total 80s style "none more black" then repetition will be the key. if/when you decide to lacquer, mix your stain into it?

Google around a bit on "ebonising" and you'll be drowning in info and instructionals.

Why you staining oak mahogany (just curious)?

In your favour, Tas Oak stains very well. One of the reasons is because it's all quartersawn and mostly consistent grain. I would rag the stain on some offcuts as practice and to get the level of colour you want. If you find you get some blotchiness, you can give the wood a wash with dilute shellac ( a 1/2lb cut - 15g shellac in 200g metho) before staining. To control the level of stain with each coat, you can dilute the stain in metho, perhaps 50% or whatever you desire and do multiple coats to get the level you want.
Just use prooftint black undiluted and one or two coats will give you full black even on white timber like maple. It is foolproof and simple, I suggest you don't use one of those ebonising concoctions like steel wool/vinegar for this reason.

I always seal timber first with sanding sealer before I wipe a stain on. Unsealed wood tends to suck in the stain unevenly and tends to highlight the grain, this is really obvious on pine. Tassie oak will absorb the stain differently, the only way to tell is to apply some on a scrap piece. As it's your first go I'd suggest having several scrap pieces to play with.

For the final finish perhaps a wipe on/off finish? Because there is no free liquid drying off a little bit of dust isn't a problem. I have polished things in my shed while working on other stuff, I just keep wiping the dust off as it cures. A wipe on finish needs a well planed/scraped/sanded (=smooth) surface first though.

Bunnies are now selling "Minwax" wipe on poly; Minwax is an American brand who has probably only surfaced in Aus due to it's regular appearances in Australian Woodsmith magazine, which is basically a re-labelled American magazine. I have used Minwax products before, they are very, very good.

You could also make your own wipe on. 1 part each of linseed oil, pure gum turpentine and varnish (preferably oil based; if in doubt go for the cheapest!), Put together in a old jar and shake to mix.

I've also made experimental wax finishes using beeswax, linseed oil and a microwave

If it's not to late apply the finish just before the unit is built, masking off any gluing areas first though! I use staining pads for all my finishes, these look like little round towels about 3" across. Apply sanding sealer and rub in well, then apply the stain. After it's dried apply the wipe on in thin coats throughoutt the day, rubbing in well. Leave to cure for a few days and it's all good!

Not wanting to confuse you but if you're using oak (and here I'm not so sure of the properties of Oz oak against other varieties) and you're digging the whole "black" idea check out this article about limed oak (both ebonised and not).

The Ornamentalist: Ebony Limed Oak - step by step

A very popular finish during the 1920s, at the high end during the 1950s and very much in demand at the top end of town right now.

If you want to blow your teacher's mind, give it a shot. Liming wax is available from most restoration-y type places. Liberon make one but I'm sure there are others too.

Or just something for another time when your whole future doesn't hang on the HSC result (just joking....a hint from someone older....it doesn't).

"Tasmanian oak" is not an oak at all, it is a generic term for pale hardwood and is generally any of an hand full of eucalips, Victorian Ash being one, which is BTW not an ash.

cheers

So ignore that last thing about limed oak then....boy, talk about making it confusing...

Thankyou so much everyone for the advice I have chose to stain tasmanian oak a mahogany as i am trying to match to similar furniture and it is a cheaper way then buying alot of the mahogany coloured timbers and since I am making quite a large project and still only a student the budget is abit tight haha.

some off the effects are really amazing that have been shown I would have liked to test a few of them out but since I am pressed for time I have gone to a concentrated application for my black and diluted the mahogany about 25% stain 75% metho to allow me more room to fix any errors that may occur.

I will definately be looking into having a go at some of thes effects and methods after this project is over.

I will try and post pictures of the finished project hopefully middle next week.

Please be very careful with using Prooftint Mahogany on the "Tasmanian Oak" (especially from Bunnings). I used it on some scrap first and was so glad I did. It really looked artificially red on my batch of wood; but your mileage may vary.

i found it simmilar at first but after a few coats on some scrap and a coat of danish oil or two it came up really bright and nice, i sugest having a look at it with a finish on it ill try post a picture of my scrap tomorrow to give you an idea, but yes at first i was very worried about the colour.

you can see the difference the danish oil made to the stain the small sample has a couple of coats of danish oil over the mahogany in comparison to the boards that have just been stained so far. Hope this helps. thanks for the advice aswell I was very worried when i first saw it aswell.