Bleeding and blistering of silky oak oil finish

**double.d** · 25th October 2017, 03:25 PM

I use HBO and i use a few timbers other than Silky oak that will bleed the oil out. Sometimes i might give it a few wipes but i always wax a week after oiling so the problem disappears.

**Dengue** · 26th October 2017, 08:19 AM

Here are the pics of the final result, done with wet wiping with 600G paper, and wiping off with smooth cotton cloth immediately after. The finish is not as bright or golden as when the first coat of oil was applied as was still very wet, that was spectacular. But there are no blisters or bleeding of the pores of the Northern Silky Oak any more.

Thanks everyone for all the advice and suggestions above, they really helped.

P1690880 (Large).jpg P1690874 (Large).jpg P1690877 (Large).jpg P1690879 (Large).jpg

**Xanthorrhoeas** · 26th October 2017, 11:11 AM

Dengue, I've used a lot of Northern Silky Oak. I usually finish it with shellac, either my brown button shellac, or lately I've used UBeaut's Hard Shellac - see Mid-century Modern sideboard build for what it looks like. The Hard shellac is tougher and less coloured than my normal - it takes about three weeks to cross-link. For utilitarian items I have used water-based polyurethanes with success. Some of them are crystal clear.

**AngelaPetruzzi** · 25th November 2017, 12:39 PM

Sorry Denque that you are having some issues...but looks like you have it all sorted now. I know we have discussed this previously so I asked someone who uses the oils as well as many and various Aussie timber species. Below is his reply (had sent him the link to this thread). It may or may not help next time but did not want to ignore your issue. Also, he is happy to talk to you if you would like, just let me know.
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**Dengue** · 25th November 2017, 06:29 PM

Thanks for taking the trouble to do this, Angela. It looks like I have to rub out the bleeding frequently immediately after the first coat, for the first 8 hours or so, And it the bleeding persists and I still have shiny spots, I found that the second coat wet sanding with 600grt paper forms a nice slurry that fills the pores. But I suspect that it takes away the natural look

**Alkahestic** · 30th November 2017, 02:16 PM

You can use a very thin cut of white shellac to seal the surface. There are generally two types of sanding sealers, one is shellac based (or is just shellac) and the other type is wood pulp and solvent mix. With the wood pulp type sealer (Feast Watson being the one I've used), you apply a thin coat of sealer, let it dry, then sand it all off until what's left is just in the pores of the wood. Once you apply your finish, any sealer on the wood is basically rendered invisible, it will have negligible impact on the color of the wood. Using the wood pulp type filler can be a very quick way of filling rough grain timber like oaks. Shellac dries much faster and is much quicker to have prepped for a coat of finish.

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