Thread: Disaster!!

Bummer....

My wife always finds some new recipe to cook when we have visitors coming for dinner....
I always reckon it is safer to test something new on something that doesn't matter.

bugger...
Is there any way you could scrape off a thin layer of wood, then reapply a few coats of your choice oil?

Ill probably cut the whole box down and restart from scratch. the staining is too deep.
Such is life

Dunno which "natural" finish you used, there are some that are OK.

Most of the more widely available products seem to contain large parts of linseed oil and if not mixed correctly they will remain sticky and all seem to darken the wood.

Maybe your tin came off the production line on a Friday arvo and didn't get all of the ingredients.

That said there is nothing worse than painstakingly executing a project only to have it fail at the last hurdle. I've been there and done that.

Nothing will move me from my tried and tested finish of one coat of thinned poly followed by multiple layers of furniture wax.

Hope you can salvage something from the wreckage.

Cheers

Dave

I have been down that path too. If it is ruined then bit the bullet and on the next one use Tru-oil.
I now use two coats of Wipe on poly,.. one of tru oil.... one of Scandinavian oil and polish with
Birchwood Casey gun stock wax
les

Try wiping the box with turps, then hitting it with EEE then a Traditional wax type product, will not bring back colour but will make the grain look the best it can

Hello,

It's some kind of non-drying oil, right?

Umm, how about wrapping and tucking it tightly in an industrial natural wool felt fabric? This stuff is the same they use in various industries to catch machine oil spills, should be one of the best stuffs for that purpose. I have heard it takes many times of it's weight of different oils.

Never used it that way, but if you have tried everything else already, could be worth a shot. Some stuff is left in the wood for sure, but if little enough, it would react with siccatives of fast drying oils and cure along, too.

kippis,

sumu

I'm with Cruzi.

How old was your product? Sometimes the hardening part of the mix does go off in the can and settles to the bottom

Sometimes it is the timber.

My fave turning finish is sanding sealer, friction dried, followed by DO also FD, the carnauba wax, friction applied the burnished off. Used for years, lasts rorever even with heavy handling, BUT

2ce I've used with NSW rosewood, it oozes and goes soft and tacky.

More recently, bedside tables in NZ Beech. Hand wiped DO, as I have done many times. Absolutely perfect. BUT Tassie Myrtle drawer fronts, just what you describe.

I eventually wiped them back clean with turps, and finished off with thin coat of DO, and immediately hand wiped off any excess. After a week, it has settled, and now has a good finish. Any help?

Regards

Hey hybridfiat - It'd be more to the point to tell us what the finish was, as there could be an easy fix for it or something that someone else knows that could help. It may even stop others from falling into the same trap.

Don't beat around the bush. Name names. If it's danish oil who's is it? There are big differences between DO from different manufacturers. If it's Organoil, which one? There are a number and not all will work the same way or for the same purpose.

All we have here is a whole heap of speculation around a phantom product that may or may not be made by hippies.

Cheers - Neil

Well said Mr administrator

Originally Posted by ubeaut

.

All we have here is a whole heap of speculation around a phantom product that may or may not be made by hippies.

Maybe it's Bong Oil, after all. They really should not label the bottles before filling them up.

kippis,

sumu

Shake well.

Originally Posted by ubeaut

Hey hybridfiat - It'd be more to the point to tell us what the finish was, as there could be an easy fix for it or something that someone else knows that could help. It may even stop others from falling into the same trap.

Don't beat around the bush. Name names. If it's danish oil who's is it? There are big differences between DO from different manufacturers. If it's Organoil, which one? There are a number and not all will work the same way or for the same purpose.

All we have here is a whole heap of speculation around a phantom product that may or may not be made by hippies.

Cheers - Neil

I didnt want to name the product as I read the forum rules first. However I wil tell you that it was Organoil hard bunishing oil. The instructions were quite clear and did I admit that it did say that it could darken the wood but it was more than a few shades more like a stain. Ive used other oil finishes in the past and expecte it to be a slow set requiring a bit of heat generated by the burnishing so I left the box for a full swing (8 days) and took to it with the polishing wheel. No luck. It hasnt set. My bad luck and Ill move on. Perhaps it was the wood perhaps it was made on friday arvo as someone suggested. Im very happy with the Truoil finish so I will carry on using it.
I agree with Cliff's comment that I sould have tried it on something less valuable first. As I said Ill move on.
Merry Christmas all