Thread: Finishing the finish

After shellac or lacquer ( 6 to 10 coats depending on time constraints ) I let it cure for about a week then rub some wax in using 0000 steel wool then buff. The result is a lovely smooth shine. I have also tried, after curing, sanding with wet and dry 2000 grit and 4000 grit, lubricating with soapy water, followed by some automotive polish and buffing. This gives a much higher gloss finish. It is important to do enough layers first to be able to rub out a good finish.

Surely the final step depends on what finish you're using? I quite like zero-gloss poly, it looks like there's nothing on the timber so you don't really want to do anything after it's done.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

....I quite like zero-gloss poly.....

I have to ask what brand is Zero-gloss Poly?

As said above depends entirely on what type of finish you are applying

Originally Posted by Christos

I have to ask what brand is Zero-gloss Poly?

I'm not sure off hand, we don't polish in-house, but I can find out.

Just looking online, there are several matt finishes around, but I don't know which one our polisher uses.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

....Just looking online, there are several matt finishes around, but I don't know which one our polisher uses.

For some reason I thought when you mention Zero-gloss it was a name of the finish. Now that you mention matt finish the penny dropped.

One thing thou I have not tried many matt finishes as I find that even the ones that I tried have a shine to them. I would interested to know what brand is being used.

If it’s a gloss finish required, then If the job is worth the effort, I wait a week or two and then buff, usually using:

1200 or 1500 grit wet and dry, if there are any dust nibs or brush marks.
Then Meguiars medium compound
Then Meguiars fine compound

Usually hand rubbed.

Normally I’m spraying, so if the finish off the gun is perfect I just go straight to the fine compound.

Meguiars are professional level car polishing compounds. Buy at Supercheap auto. The medium is probably a ‘cut and polish’ and the fine is probably equal to a ‘scratch and swirl remover’.

This works for lacquer and shellac.

For conventional polyurethane varnishes it works, but not so well. You may need to wait a lot longer then two weeks too. With poly, test before proceeding, I can imagine that sometimes it does not end well.

Generally, the purpose of buffing is to remove the plasticy effect and give a lovely soft glow and silken feel.

Also, it’s possible at this stage to clean up many of the faults that may have occurred during finishing. I have fixed some really big ugly faults by beginning the process with coarser paper and then using pullover.

Cheers
Arron

Thanks Barri that was helpful and Elanjacobs too.

I used Danish oil on some boxes and then a gloss varnish on a coffee table. The Danish Oil seemed fine as it was but even with sanding between coats the varnish didn't feel super smooth at the end. So I guess I know that those two are different.

I realised I didn't know what to do now at the end of the varnish finishing. I used water and a little detergent and sanded with 1200 because of what I'd read about rubbing out a finish. It worked.

I was hoping to learn various approaches for the future so I asked here.

The final step depends on so many things: what finish you are using, what result you want, etc. I do not like high, plastic gloss so interpret the following in that light.

When I am finishing an antique repair with shellac I buff with 0000 steel wool or 1000 grit wet and dry then use a good wax (like Traditional wax) with either a hand buff or a power buff.
If I am finishing a turning i may use Shellawax Glow - wow, finish and gloss in one. If i use a Danish oil - well it depends on the oil. If it is Rustins it leaves a lovely finish on its own, others a bit of a challenge. Final finish is always a hard wax polish - not bees wax - something with lots of Carnauba wax in it.

Sorry Arron I hadn't seen your post when I put up that reply.

O.k. So as I get better at finishing it may be different but the approach I used was on the right track for gloss - except be careful with standard poly. Using finer abrasives to increase the shine if I want. Thank you. I did find that (being more careful to get rid of dust helped) I improved the second time.

BTW I had to build a new table from scratch for the Radial Arm Saw after I started the second coffee table. I found the saw wasn't quite accurate because the table for it wasn't flat anymore. If you can't set the table really parallel with the arm of an RAS you can't get it all set up right. Anyway - I have finally finished the second table and the first one that you and John helped so much with is in my living room. I wanted to wait until both were done to illustrate how much I learnt from you two helping with the first but I will post pics of both soon.

Originally Posted by Christos

For some reason I thought when you mention Zero-gloss it was a name of the finish. Now that you mention matt finish the penny dropped.

One thing thou I have not tried many matt finishes as I find that even the ones that I tried have a shine to them. I would interested to know what brand is being used.

Sorry, the boss won't tell me. We gotta have some trade secrets...

I think the origin of this terminology is that most industrial lacquers are specified in gloss levels, expressed as a percentage.

You can see in this Stylwood spec sheet it’s available in 10,30,50,70 and 95.

http://www.wattylindustrial.com.au/d...r/Stylwood.pdf

Mirotone aligns 10% with ‘matt’.