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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    5

    Default french polish fail

    Hi everyone. This is my first post on the Woodwork forum....and on any forum in fact. I recently built a small stool out of some spotted gum off cuts. I was really happy with the work prior to my epic failed attempt at french polishing.
    I'll tell you the process i followed and if anyone could point out where things may have turned pear shaped I'd welcome the advice.

    1/ Shaped the stool top and legs with 40 grit then 80 grit. Then made mortise and tenon connections with glue.
    2/ Sanded the stool by hand to 120 grit, then 180, then 240, then 400. I then rubbed it back with fine, then super fine steel wool.
    At this stage (yesterday) the stool was looking really good with all the beautiful variations in grain and colour showing
    3/ I cleaned away all the dust using a clean white rag and metho.
    4/ I then applied Feast and Watson Mastertouch FRENCH POLISH. As directed with a good quality soft brush, waiting one hour between coats (X 3 coats) in what i think were the right weather conditions. I'm now in the 24hr period of waiting before i rub down with 000 steel wool and re-apply 3 coats.

    Ok, so the result has come up with an inconsistent creme white wash. Has anyone ever seen old smooth chocolate easter eggs with the white blotchy discolouration.. kinda like that..

    Can anyone help me out? Cheers

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    St Georges Basin
    Posts
    1,017

    Default

    Moisture in there somewhere. Wait for a hot/fine day and give it another coat.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    5

    Default

    sweet thanks burra

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Osaka
    Posts
    909

    Default

    yep, definitely moisture. Mid 20's day with dry conditions best for application.
    Semtex fixes all

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    5

    Default

    ok thanks. So should i wait for some fine weather and give a light sand with steel wool, then apply more coats? Or blow up with semtex...

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    If I am reading this correctly and based on your location(Sydney) you most likely applied the finish just before the rains came.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    5

    Default

    correct Christos. I'm getting the feeling this is where i went wrong...

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Osaka
    Posts
    909

    Default

    You may be lucky, I have had it clear up in the past with a bit of dry weather and just reapplying. But yes, a rub down and redo wont hurt. No need to blow it up just yet...
    Semtex fixes all

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    kansas mostly
    Posts
    163

    Default

    Some people have reported banishing the haze with dry heat. I've never tried it. Others have reported success with a bit of solvent on a clean, lint-free cloth and rubbed over the surface. I've had limited success with this.

    ron

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,809

    Default Could be your metho or the shellac itself

    Hi TGuy,

    I agree with the other responders that the white haze does sound like the shellac is affected by water. I'm not so sure about the source of the water though as I French Polish here in Brisbane in very humid conditions and even when it was raining a couple of days ago without any white haze.

    Some metho contains a lot of water so one possible cause of your problem could be the solvent (metho is hygroscopic so it absorbs water from the atmosphere and some suppliers also dilute as water is cheaper than alcohol).

    I haven't ever used the brand of shellac that you are using but it could also be the source of the water problem if it was old and had absorbed water from the atmosphere.

    The good news is that your project will be OK - far from a write-off, even if it is frustrating at this time. Many years ago I purchased a set of antique cedar chairs that someone had tried to strip with some water containing cleaner and had turned white. They went very cheaply at auction! I gave them a light steel wool rub and then polished over the top with good quality button shellac (see below) and the finish revived beautifully.

    Depending on the effect that you are trying to achieve it would be worthwhile trying some different shellacs and some good quality metho. The forum owner, UBeaut products, sells some really good ready-made shellac products that I have found to be great to use. They even have a modified shellac (Hard Shellac) that cross-links as it dries and become heat and water resistant (I use it for wooden coasters and food bowls) and is very hard wearing. For antique items (which I only polish if absolutely necessary as I prefer old finishes with patina) I use brown button shellac. This comes as flat, hard shellac discs about 50 mm diam. which you dissolve with metho and make to whatever strength you want. A company in Sydney called Shines sells the buttons by the kilo.

    David

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    720

    Default

    Definitely agree that you have moisture trapped in the layers.
    I have done french polishing in the past but only on antique pieces and one or two reproduction pieces I made.

    Personally I hate it as a finish especially on modern pieces as it is far too long winded to apply and has very little duarbility.
    You may be far better of using a wipe on poly finish,Danish oil or something similar as they are very easy to apply and maintain.

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