Thread: French polish mop oil(which one?)

You don't have to go to Ikea for your mineral oil, just go to the supermarket and get Baby Oil. Same thing.

Traditionally linseed oil is used, but NOT BOILED!

Linseed oil used as a finish on its own was originally boiled to make it plasticise quicker, modern BLO has artificial additives to do the same thing. However when french polishing you only use the oil as a lubricant to stop the rubber from sticking to the polished surface. You need to be able to remove the oil afterwards, if you use BLO you might have a few problems at that point!

I don't see why olive oil wouldn't work..... but then again linseed oil isn't exactly expensive or rare. Your local Big Green Shed sells it in the paint section.

Are there any additives in the baby oil products they sell at the shops? Will my end result smell of babies? lol.

And thanks for that Tiff, my mother also suggested linseed oil(she used to be a signwriter so used it while on the job). She also mentioned that it can randomly combust when left soaked in rags, which wouldn't be very helpful to me as I tend to leave things lying around - very forgetful lol.

Originally Posted by Macleod

Hey guys, I was just wondering what oils can be used when french polishing. I think I read somewhere that they have to be neutral pure oils? I heard of someone using extra virgin olive oil, would this work? I'm actually in the process of chasing up some mineral oil in the mean time(would have to go all the way to Ikea lol..).

Any help's appreciated, thanks.

Hi there,
I would not use linseed oil cors is too thick and too sticky as well.do use only profrssional oils like http://bormawachs.it/prodotto.php?tp...a=2.somethimes I dont useany oils for french polishing but if you decided to use any then make shure that you would be able to take it off.good luck

Mineral oil, linseed oil (raw or boiled), engine oil (new or old)... any type will do. It's only on the surface for a brief time before being spirited off and, in the case of BLO, wouldn't remotely have time to dry.

I have used olive oil. I can't say I'm an expert with french polish, but I read lots of recommendations that said olive oil is a good option, and is one of several oils that produce a harder finish in the shellac. It's also readily available in my house, and I don't have to go buy a whole bottle just to use a thimble full.

Make sure you use the stuff with the extra virgins in it.

Originally Posted by surfdabbler

...I read lots of recommendations that said olive oil is a good option, and is one of several oils that produce a harder finish in the shellac.

The oil is purely for lubricating the rubber so it doesn't 'grab' the soft (while it's being applied) polish and has absolutely nothing to do with the hardness of the dried shellac film.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

The oil is purely for lubricating the rubber so it doesn't 'grab' the soft (while it's being applied) polish and has absolutely nothing to do with the hardness of the dried shellac film.

According to Wikipedia, entry on French polishing...

"Typically, "softer" oils, such as mineral oil, will produce a glossier and less durable finish whereas "harder" oils, such as walnut oil and olive oil, will produce a more durable finish."

Not saying it's right. Just saying I read it. Perhaps what I thought I read is not what they meant. Myself, I have no clue.

Originally Posted by surfdabbler

According to Wikipedia, entry on French polishing...

"Typically, "softer" oils, such as mineral oil, will produce a glossier and less durable finish whereas "harder" oils, such as walnut oil and olive oil, will produce a more durable finish."

Not saying it's right. Just saying I read it. Perhaps what I thought I read is not what they meant. Myself, I have no clue.

I hear what you're saying, but I stand by my previous post. Much of Wikipedia's content is written and edited by old wives!

Most polishers swear by one oil or another, but as shellac is immiscible with and impervious to oil, the type of oil used is immaterial.

This discussion is a new one for me, for I have never used oils of any sort when French Polishing.

I am a little curious therefore, (a) am I doing something wrong or (b) if not why really use it, let alone (c) how to use it ?

All polishing I do, is either applied with a brush, so can't see why you would want to use oil with the shellac mix, or alternatively I make a pad and apply to the wood. Given that the metho flash dries so fast, if the surface is at all tacky I simply leave for a few moments to dry/harden before applying more shellac.

Again I am not sure I really see the need for oil. I also wonder (and probably because I havn't tried this), whether or not the oil might cause problems with the shellac mix, that is reactions and/or even stop it flash drying ?

Always keen to learn more...

Originally Posted by Horsecroft88

This discussion is a new one for me, for I have never used oils of any sort when French Polishing.

I am a little curious therefore, (a) am I doing something wrong or (b) if not why really use it, let alone (c) how to use it ?

All polishing I do, is either applied with a brush, so can't see why you would want to use oil with the shellac mix, or alternatively I make a pad and apply to the wood. Given that the metho flash dries so fast, if the surface is at all tacky I simply leave for a few moments to dry/harden before applying more shellac.

Again I am not sure I really see the need for oil. I also wonder (and probably because I havn't tried this), whether or not the oil might cause problems with the shellac mix, that is reactions and/or even stop it flash drying ?

Always keen to learn more...

What you're doing is 'padding' on the polish – a simple and effective method of applying shellac. However, true, glass-like French polishing does traditionally involve oil so the polishing can proceed beyond the point one would stop when padding to allow the shellac to dry and not pull off.

The oil allows higher pressure to be used to manipulate the thick, soft shellac without pulling it off. The result is that the polish builds flatter and more quickly. 'Spiriting-off' removes all traces of oil.

It sounds as if what you're describing is more like varnishing. "Proper" french polishing is very similar to spit polishing boots; you apply a coat by brush first then subsequent coats are rubbed on using a soft pad (called a "rubber") in a series of motions (circular, figure 8, left to right etc). The pad is "charged" with polish diluted with metho so that polish is released by firmly squeezing and/or pressing it.

Obviously pressing a polish and metho soaked pad firmly against a surface that may be only a few minutes old will cause the pad to stick and drag like hell. A drop of oil is used as a lubricant, the pad just glides across the surface depositing a tiny layer of polish each time. Once the polishing process is complete the tiny traces of oil that are left on the surface are "spirited off" using a soft cloth with a hint of metho on it.

It's a knack that is easy to learn but fairly time consuming. However the finished result is a truly beautiful, warm reddish-orange surface that is easily maintained with wax, can be repaired in the same way it was applied and can self-heal in certain circumstances (water and heat marks can disappear over a few days). The only true killer is spilt vodka! Or rum, whisky, gin, brandy.........

Ok thanks for that, I think I understand what you are both saying. I must admit, it wasn't how I was taught some 20 years ago, and fundamentally I havn't ever had any issues re drag, in applying shellac re my polishing process as a rule, but I am also aware of the need to stop and wait for the surface to dry if there is drag, so as not to stuff up the finish coat being applied.

Just to be really clear, so what you are saying is that using the process of a pad charged with shellac/metho mix (as I use) is fine, but to also add a drop or two of oil to the pad will improve the end result in terms of shine/lustre achieved. I am happy to give this a go, as I have just started on re polishing a table top (magonany drop leaf side table) for the other half, having already completed the leg repairs and repolishing of them. My thread on this is under the Restoration area on the forum.

Would I also be correct in my understanding, what you are also saying is that the final stage before cutting back with super fine steel wool and bees wax polishing is to carefully wipe the "shellaced" surface to remove any reisdual traces of oil with the merest suggestion of metho on a cloth ? If so, I can see the logic in that.

I will give this process a go to see how different a result I can achieve from what I normally can. Thanks guys , oh and I assume extra virgin olive oil should be fine to use.

After the bodying-up stage, just add a couple of drops of oil to the rubber and let rip!

You can build virtually as much as you like without fear of pulling the surface. Before you walk away from the surface being polished, wipe the rubber on your apron or trouser leg to squeeze out the oil on its surface. Then squirt a goodly amount of meths onto the rubber and cary on as before. Wipe the rubber off again and give the surface another go with a meths-only rubber. That's it.